pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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The first pitch anchor is 2 pins with webbing/rap rings, not bolts (the topo has bolts). Better to link the first and second pitches anyway (place pro wisely, use long slings etc). There is a scary loose block above the belay, as you are pulling the 5.10c roof... I hand jammed behind it initially and felt it shift - but it's really hard to avoid using it if you want to go up that roof. Eventually stemmed around it using small dikes but it was harder (and solid pro is a few feet below). Heads up, especially if you choose to belay there, because the block is immediately above the belay!
The upper 10b crack was a bit dirty and the last 30-40 feet to the belay covered with sand, moss and dirt... some route finding options there, none appear to be great. As I climbed that upper crack dirt was constantly raining down the belayer... would be 4 stars if not for the loose rock & dirt, but still a worthy climb with those caveats. Continued to Eagle Buttress, Right... (also if you start up Eagle Buttress, Right first 20 feet, you bypass the 10d roof but can do the rest of Roofer Madness pitch 1 & 2)
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The route as seen from Hogsback.Photo: Chris McNamara
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