Stonedeaf
Social climber
misreading rock everywhere
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Not much beta out there for this climb. Probably because it's closed most of the year. Climbed it 10/7/09. I lead the first 130' and the second 70' to the big ledge. My partner lead the 3rd pitch. 1st 40 feet warms you up with easier moves before the 5.8 section. The 1st pitch is steep and sustained. There is a chimney just before the 130' belay that is not labeled on the topo. I left by backpack in it and chimnied up. Later I lowered a bight of rope to my partner so I could haul it up 15 feet to my belay. My partner moved to the climber left face instead of the chimney. Same difficulty but no pro, the chimney has good gear, in line with the leader rope.
2nd pitch of 70' is straight forward 5.6 to the big ledge. It would be difficult to do a full 200' 1st pitch because I needed to go 15 feet back to the main wall to find clean cracks to build an anchor. W/60 meter it will be close. If you try it, save gear 1.25" and smaller for the 70 foot section and the big ledge belay.
Last pitch really has 2 chimney sections seperated by 15 feet of easier climbing. The chimneys are a left wall and a right open book rolling away from the corner. My partner lead it and stemmed it. It is easier to place pro that way because in chimney mode, the gear is on the wall at your back. I did a combination of chimney and stemming on follow. We took a #4 Camalot and used it low on pith 1 and midway on pitch 3. Probably worth taking it.
There is a nice 5.6 hand crack near the top.
The dagger rock described in the picture TR below this post...will move when you pull on it. You will want to pull on it. Its about an 800 pound piece. Although it moves, looking at it from the top it appears to be wedged pretty well. STILL, you never know. Heads up when you get there.
The topo appears to show a 40 foot 4th class section. Only the last 15 feet is 4th class blocks.
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