North Arete, Crystal Crag 5.7

  
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High Sierra, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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  (3.0)
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Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 67%  (2)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 33%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Fletcher

Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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    Jul 17, 2013 - 02:17am
I agree with Riley. The first part is kind of a hike but it starts to get interesting when you cross over an airy ramp. I think I had a belay here (it was many moons ago) and for me the crux move with the first move up out of that ramp into the crystal pitch. Then it's pretty easy, but dang, like others have said, pretty loose and very cool. I recall being very ginger with the rope and where it ran for fear of knocking something sizeable off.

Edit: Just remembered I had some photos from the climb:

The airy ramp:
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Airy ramp on Crystal Crag
Airy ramp on Crystal Crag
Credit: Fletcher
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A couple of shots of the cool Crystal pitch.
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Nice light on the crystal pitch
Nice light on the crystal pitch
Credit: Fletcher
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More crystal coolness.
More crystal coolness.
Credit: Fletcher
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Hard to have a bad day with this guy!
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At the top with a fine fellow and character, 10b4me.
At the top with a fine fellow and character, 10b4me.
Credit: Fletcher
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meatball

Trad climber
Bay Area, CA
Jul 16, 2013 - 01:36am
 
Did the route a couple weekends ago. I admit I kinda (really) messed up with route finding and did what the above photo describes as the north face variation. I thought it was super loose and would just reccomend staying on the north arete proper.
I wish the guidebook I read (not supertopo) had gone something like this:
Climb the chimney and continue left. Stay left. Stay on the dang arete (which by the way is left). Continue up to the crystal pitch and climb it. Traverse along the ridge-top to the south summit (if you're directionally challenged it's the one furthest from the point where you topped out).
FYI found a fixed pin in the middle of the crystal pitch.
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
Jul 15, 2013 - 09:32pm
 
The loose stuff was on the Crystal pitch.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Jul 15, 2013 - 09:11pm
 
Very straightforward. Only one very short section of 5.7 crack. The loose stuff is on very easy ground - basically 3rd class at that point. I don't recall placing anything bigger than hand size.
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Jul 15, 2013 - 10:43am
 
Ton-o-loose stuff.Wear a helmet.Careful what you pull on.Have fun.
Fletcher

Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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    Jul 15, 2013 - 10:26am
I've lead it before and it's a fun route. The pro is good and there are lots of options. The crystal part near the top is very cool.

The descent off the top ridge over the back looks trickier than it is. We did one rap, but upon doing that realized it's down-climbable if you're careful.

Have fun!
Eric
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
Jul 15, 2013 - 10:16am
 
Been eight years since I climbed it, but as I recall, pro was good.
Nick "The Brick"

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
Jul 15, 2013 - 05:59am
 
So stoked for this route! It will be my first alpine lead this saturday. Any tips for pro? Or anything sketchy to look out for?
Crystal Crag - North Arete 5.7 - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Crystal Crag Overview
Photo: Luke Lydiard
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.