Fine Jade, The Rectory 5.11a

  
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Desert Towers, Utah, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
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    Feb 2, 2005 - 06:59pm
Since when are bolted (summit) pitches unique on desert towers?

Jah Man, Moses, Crooked Finger, Finger of Fate, Thumbelina, Sparkling Touch, Easter Island, Monster Tower, Tiki Tower, the original route (Pratt and Robinson's) on the N Six-Shooter...

Next time I'll do the adventure way, though.
JC

climber
sawatch choss
Feb 26, 2004 - 02:09pm
 
How is the bolted finish "the logical way"? More like the lazy, unadventurous, p*ss-out way.

It may be consistent with the difficulty of the rest of the climb, but it is inconsistent with the CHARACTER of the climb. And it ain't THAT MUCH easier than the rest of the climb... I've always thought it was a serious sandbag at 5.7, and one of the more unique pitches in the desert.
Dragon with Matches

climber
Bamboo Grove
Feb 24, 2004 - 10:03am
 
... But the bolted finish is bolted, it's face climbing, it's neither the historical nor the logical finish to the summit route, it's not the natural 'path of least resistance,' it's a sport pitch to the summit of a beautiful Castle Valley tower, and, oh yeah, it's a bolted pitch on a desert tower.

Fine Jade is a gift from nature, and concluding this wonderful natural line by clipping a line of bolts "just to keep the grade more consistent" would be missing out on a great adventuresome conclusion (and no gimme 5.7 either) to what to me is the perfect desert line.
JohnDoe

Trad climber
Denver, CO
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    Feb 23, 2004 - 01:42pm
The bolted finish is more direct, more consistent with the grade of the route, and very aesthetic. Awesome route!
madmax

climber
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    Feb 20, 2004 - 06:24pm
The 5.7 traditional finish is WAY more fun than the bolted finish. And, the bolted finish is actually the finish to Coyote Calling.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
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    Mar 12, 2003 - 08:59pm
We found the fisty burl-fest of the first pitch to be much harder than the boulder-problem 'cruxes' up higher. Eat your wheaties.
The bolted direct finish seemed to make a lot more sense than the original line, though since I only did the one I can't say which is better. Kinda weird to be sport climbing on the top of a tower, though.


I think a 'tower' is supposed to be taller than it is wide, which makes the Rectory a 'butte'. Though it looks pretty towerlike head-on.
The Rectory - Fine Jade 5.11a - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
The Rectory from Castleton Tower.
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.