drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
|
 |
you are correct, those are errors - it is correct in the book as a 4 star 5.10d, it just got entered into the website database (by yours truly) with the wrong rating and only 3 stars instead of 4. i do agree that it could be 5.10c not 5.10d but i think it has gotten quite a bit harder and the starting holds smaller (worn down) since 18-19 years ago when i first did it and even then it felt like a solid or even sandbagged 5.10b with rusty old spinners. so im good with 5.10d, if you have it wired it feels easier then onsite. i also just noticed that the amazing face was also only 3 stars in the database so i changed that mega classic to 4 stars as well, of course. thanks for the feedback!
|
Scott1E
Trad climber
Concord, California
|
|
I saw with joy the .11d rating as I instantly improved my rope gun ability a number and a couple of letters. Generally, it's been considered .10b. So, I searched a couple of older guides to see if I could figure out where this rating came from. It appears if you climb to the top of the formation it's .11d, but no one ever does this (it would have to be TR'd as there are no bolts). The now-accepted end of the route is at the chains, which is rated .10b. The crux, which has cause an uncountable numgbe of cursing fits (frustrating for the climber, but real fun to watch), is getting off the ground. Once off, you puzzle through two short bolts of camouflaged, but relatively secure holds. Then it's much easier climbing to the top. Maybe it's just home crag-pride, but I'd give this one an extra star. It's a fun TR that we never tire of (maybe because we have the start wired?) and a good stretch lead for .9 climbers because the bolts are close together.
|
|
|
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
| |
