Egg Arete, Mickey's Beach 5.6

  
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Bay Area, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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1 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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    Feb 18, 2013 - 02:04am
Great route! thoughtful and daring, with definite ground fall potential near the top of the route.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
Feb 23, 2013 - 01:10pm
 
everything on that face has been soloed by me and many others not that it's really worth writing or bolting about.....

Oh really?

Do tell!

It tends to get pretty foggy on that section of coast, if you catch my drift...
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
Feb 26, 2013 - 08:52pm
 
Hardmann....Show better then tell. And yes, most of the time it is foggy.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#291771
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Missing photo ID#291775
Sorry about picture quality....Taken from video shot with Iphone on 2/21/13
Edit: Because this is supposed to be about route beta: I've always treated this face as a slabby bouldering face and never rated nor picked any definitive lines although I and others have bouldered the bolted lines that exist on the face as well as traversed at differing heights etc. But if I had to rate anything I've done on it, nothing is harder then VO. And I'm glad there are new moderate routes for folks as there's not much at Mickey's that are easy.
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
Feb 18, 2013 - 05:23pm
 
Egghead much easier now because slides a few years ago have filled in the base of the climb almost burying initial crux (rated 11b at the time but most thought boulder problem start to be more like 12a) boulder problem which was the best part of the route and which has made bolt placement closer to ground thus ground fall potential. More like 11a/b now.
Edit: Does anyone know who put up the newer climbs on the Northwest face? everything on that face has been soloed by me and many others not that it's really worth writing or bolting about.....
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 20, 2013 - 07:05pm
 
Wstmrnclmr,
shoot me an email, I have info on the two routes you asked about on the hillside facing slab. Also, I'm curious about what you know of those routes.
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
Feb 21, 2013 - 12:33am
 
karodrinker...Sorry, I just read the mast head of the route. "Egg Arete Mickey's Beach 5.6". I was referring to the west side climb of the arete which is called "Egghead". Good job....
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 26, 2013 - 09:37pm
 

PICTURE PROOF BOOM!

Chop the Barnacles!!@(&
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Mar 2, 2013 - 05:25pm
 
Quote Feb 26, 2013 - 06:37pm
 

PICTURE PROOF BOOM!

Chop the Barnacles!!@(&



Here

Not until you get down there and solo them Gucci.
Besides, still never seen or heard of the center one soloed and Tony is the only one I've heard of that's soloed the left one.
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
May 1, 2016 - 04:14pm
 
Suprised nobody here today......as good as it gets
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Missing photo ID#454800
Did someone add a glue in to the arete?
Mickey's Beach - Egg Arete 5.6 - Bay Area, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: drunkenmaster
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.