Southwest Face, Hut Tower IV, 5.11a

Alaska, USA

Currently 5.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 4-8 hours

Approach time: 2-3 hours from Gorge

Descent time: 2-3 hours

Number of pitches: 10

Height of route: 1,900'

Overview

This small pointy peak is the last summit of the great London and Werewolf Tower massif on the lower east side of the Ruth Gorge. The tower is completely hidden behind Werewolf Tower from the upper Gorge, lending to its relative obscurity. But this fin-shaped spire is a secret gem, consisting of some of the best rock in the Gorge. The Southwest Face of Hut Tower makes for a good warmup for harder rock routes in the Gorge, or it may be a great prize for intermediate climbers looking to get up any one of the legendary Ruth Gorge rock routes. First ascensionist Andi Orgler describes this route as “relaxing climbing in the afternoon sun.”

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