Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Climbed this Robbins/Herbert 5 star route classic last week with 5 friends – great day on the apron! We just walked over from the pines campground. I was a little worried about the runout, but it was not too bad - especially after practicing on Tuolumne slab this season.
P1 – link this with P2 – the belayer will need to scramble up 20 ft but it works.
P3 – 5.7 jams and stemming – don’t miss the bolted anchor on the left like we did!
P4 – The crack getting to the bolt is awesome – it actually traverses for a while up top – beautiful. The physiological crux is not too bad. You are above the bolt a ways, the move feels like 5.8 as per the topo, and you can see it’s going to ease up. Keep your head and make those 2 moves. As Royal says “it’s not a death-defying matter. The result of a slip would be 30 to 50 feet of rolling and bouncing down smooth granite.” Good pro in flakes above.
P5 - Go up then right to find the piton – you can’t see it from the belay. Climb down and right for the easier traverse. There are 2 bolts before the topo .75 placement (it’s a pin scar so I used small offset cam), and also a nut above that – so you have 3 pieces of pro to make the 5.9 face move to the anchor – fun!
P6 – 3 bolts to protect the thin 5.9 face moves, then head left over to easier ground. You can tension traverse over to the 5.7 if needed. Big slide potential on this pitch, but easy once you make the 5.7.
P7 – Fun crack and chimney moves.
Four raps to the bottom! 5 star day! Can’t wait to do it again!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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All the way to the Oasis was a great adventure. Had a really fun day up there with Riley. Who knew I'd learn to love love slab?
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han
climber
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SuperTopo is fairly accurate except:
1. The right traversing pitch, after clipped piton will see two new bolts (not on ST) about 20-30 feet to the right and another set 30 feet above (the anchor). There is no .75 but .4-.5 protecting the move above.
2. The 3 tightly bolted 5.9 pitch, maybe it is 5.9 when 10a did not exist. But easy to aid, except going above the last bolt is sleek. Can tension traverse to the left of the bolts to more sticky ground, then long runout to below the chimney, 5.7R is about right.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Riley and I did the "Optional Rappel" route as per the ST. We rapped down to the left of the Pinnacle and found the 1st rap anchors. When I made the next rap, I was unable to find the next set. We were rapping with a 70m rope and a 5mm pull cord. I swept left and right and couldn't find them. However, I did find a piton and button head with green webbing up on the side of the pinnacle. It looked too sketch to me, so I swept even further left (about 40'). I was at 200' down on my rope. I did find a pair of anchors, but you'd have to have a 70m rope to get to them. The hangers were bent from rockfall. After bouncing on them, I decided they were acceptable to use. We rapped again and found the next set. I suspect that the correct bolts are either in a very inconspicuous spot or they have been taken out by rock fall.
In short, either rap the route or use a 70m rope with the "optional rap route."
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Here is a trip report of Goodrich Pinnacle to The Oasis
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=887368
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Here is a great story on the route from Royal Robbins:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=723407
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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In regard to the 6th pitch, going up past the third bolt (instead of left) is defintetly a challenge, albeit a pleasant one. I'm gonna say lower end 5.10. Excellant climb, one I would recomend to any confident 5.9 leader. I like this almost as much as Central Pillar of Frenzy.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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As of may 25th 05' a lot of the route is wet slab climbing where you want all the friction you can get so heads up. also as to the traversing 5th pitch: there is a couple of bolts about 15 feet right of the first fixed piton . to re-iterate what chris said, there is no .75 cam to be found after those bolts , you can get a green alien in after the bolts as well as a micronut and that protects very nicely the short 5.9 section up to the next belay.
as for the next pitch: if you clip those three bolts and proceed upward be prepared for 5.9 runouts (maybe harder) not 5.7 . going left after the second bolt may have been easier but if you're doing it this time of year be prepared to get wet.
Overall an awesome route. one more thing. when the route is wet water pools on little ledges and it is impossible to keep ropes dry. by the time we rapped to the ground every inch of our ropes were wet and heavy as well as out shorts . much better route when dry.
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JohnDoe
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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A really nice line. Four to four and a half stars. Heady - not for inexperienced leaders.
Climb Ohn. Wally
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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I just got this beta from a supertopo user:
esterday we climbed Goodrich Pinnacle and noticed a few things you might want to change for the next version:
*Overall, I didn't think the route was comparable to other 5 star routes in the area - perhaps 3 stars would be more accurate?
*The last pitch is ~170' as opposed to 150' on the topo. The top belay is a solid slung block.
*On the crux pitch 5, the RH variation has a bolt that is not marked on the topo(it is located roughly where the .75" cam
placement is marked - we did not see this cam placement). The belay above is comprised of two 1/4 inch bolts that
probably need a date with ASCA!!).
*On pitch 6, the topo shows climbing up past 3 bolts, then traversing left to easier ground. In fact, the easiest line
steps down from the first bolt, traverses left to more grippy rock, then straight up to the belay - otherwise, it's definitely not
5.7!! If I recall correctly, the first bolt is a 1/4 incher and so probably should be replaced.
*The lowest rappel station(the one you scramble to, down and right along the big ledge), is an old 2 bolt belay(rivets?). It is marked as a 90' rappel on the topo but is in fact ~105'.
*On the 4th pitch, there is a fixed piton about halfway between the bolt and the anchor above.
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DaveR
Trad climber
Chester, UK
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We did the right hand original?/variation? of this route early September, but the climbing above the 3 bolts appeared holdless so we clipped the highest bolt then traversed left(slightly lower) to the arete which was much more amenable for 5.9. It gets progressively easier as you climb away from the bolts.
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Colt45
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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This route is pretty good, but I wasn't blown away. And if you do the right variation, it's pretty safe. I agree that the closely-bolted section seemed way harder than 5.9, maybe closer to 5.10+ (we just aided it).
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Jerry Anderson
Social climber
Yosemite, CA
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Just a quick note:
Going to the right is the original route, the 5.9 r was done later. There was at least one bolt added to the original route by the Galactic Hitchhiker team on p. 6. All bolts are 3/8 but some of the bolts put in by the Hitchhiker team are of questionable quality. Some of those were also replaced but others remain. Do not rappel from p. 4 two p. 2 even though two 60 m ropes will reach. There have been some rope hang epics at that point. Rap to 3 then 2. Every pitch is good to Goodrich but a junk pile to go further.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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I did this route about ten years ago and I unintentionally did the 5.9 no pro variation. It was pretty intense as this was too close to my TRing ability. I thought it was a lot harder than 5.7, but maybe if you follow Karl's advice (above), it could be that easy.
Just repeated it a few days ago and did the right, [relatively] protected variation. Supertopo shows this as 5.9. You can easily make it 5.9 by yarding on bolts and doing a tension traverse on lead (and an easy swing on second), but I sure don't see how it is 5.9 clean. My partner slide a couple of times on second (and eventually had to have a rope swing). We were TRing at the Apron a couple of days before and he was getting up 5.11 friction without falling. And this pitch is 5.9? I don't get it.
As an aside, the three bolts off the anchor are ridiculously close together (three bolts in about ten feet). The second and third are new, the first is old 1/4 inch. This wouldn't have been so bad, but I had to yard on the first to clip the second, and if it blew, it was a ways back down to the anchor.
The previous time I rapped off the left side of G.R. and it went fine. This time we rapped the route. The first rap was hard to pull the ropes. A lot of drag and the chance of a stuck rope. The first rap anchor below the summit (the top of the next to last pitch) leaves something to be desired. All the weight is on an old, 1/4 inch bolt, that is backed up lower down with four old pins. The anchor can be backed up with a so-so stopper in a somewhat hollow flake by using a long sling.
If I come back, I'll probably choose to rap the left side again.
This is a really fun climb, but I would recommend being quite solid on 5.9 friction before getting on it.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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I've done this climb many times and it's a good one. I would caution folks, however, about the run-out on the 5.9 pitch. It's about a 150 foot pitch and the only piece of pro is a rusty baby angle piton which is "stacked" with another pin" The face above is probably only 5.7 but it's only that easy if you go the proper route, which is less than obvious (since the line of weakness is subtle" An alternative is to do the Galactic Hitchhiker variation to the right.
Since you're looking a beta page, I don't mind telling you the line.
Move right from the belay and circle back left on tiny ramps. Look for a tiny black knob for your feet. That will get you to a tiny ledge with the stacked pins. Clip them with a screamer and a long runner!!! From the left side of the little ledge move up and left, passing two quartz dikes. After the second dike, tend up and left but not around the rounded arete until you are just higher than a very slight bulge. The climb to the other side of the arete and up, tending slightly right for another 50 feet to the anchors. Just relax, it's not possitive but if you don't get lost, you won't slide.
The slab shots on this page were taken on goodrich right
http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/2001_Climbing_Pictures.html
enjoy
Karl
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
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