Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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This is a nice start to Crying Time and perfectly well protected (by Tmds standards) if you find all the bolts. I don't think it is any harder than Shagadelic although the bolts are a factor of two further apart on Cry Baby than they are on Shagadelic.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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Great route. Yes, the bolts are there, just hard as hell to see. The whole route is hard to spot the features and sequences from the ground, hard to tell until nearly on top of them. The first bolt is the only one I could spot from ground. As mentioned, 2nd is roughly straight up from first. From here route starts to angle left. I had a really hard time seeing the 3rd and got off route on a harder variation. 3rd bolt is easily clippable from one of the biggest ledges on the route.
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fijibrian
climber
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Whoops! correction on my post for "cry Baby" should read; From the top of pitch 1 (bolted anchor)on "Crying Time" look down and climbers right (not left as mentioned)about 25 feet for last bolt on cry baby. Hope my beta for cry baby helps avoid some grief.
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fijibrian
climber
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Hi,a few people have had problems finding the bolts on "Cry Baby".The 1st seems to be found easily enough.You cannot see the second bolt from the first-it is up about 35'(+or-) over a slight bulge and climbers right of the first bolt.Crux near the first bolt then progressively easier climbing.(with the perspective of doing the route again a couple of times later the crux is maybe 5.9)Bolt #2 is much the same story-up and slightly right and hard to see. Bolt #3 is climbers left of #2 up about 25ish feet-angling toward the anchors on crying time.the last bolt is climbers left and 15 or so feet up continuing the angle towards the belay. Runouts are commensurate with crying time .Cant think of why it would have been chopped,or why choppers would have left the 1st bolt if they removed ones above.....might be prudent to do the standard start for crying time to the bolted anchor(watch rope drag )then look down and climbers left(about 25') for the bolts should one want to do the pitch sometime.Most think it is a better start to crying time.
P.S. good job on the brown pants runout- you may have done a F.A variation!
*This is my 1st post on supertopo and hope it is not too long-i am injured and can't climb for awhile so i am spewing instead.
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Matt's
climber
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jplaut--my partner did the exact same thing, going from the low bolt on crybaby to the anchors of crying time again... i think the route is chopped...
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jplaut
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I started up this route last weekend. I clipped the first bolt and continued up about another 40 ft. without seeing any more bolts. In the end, I had to do a sketchy extremely runout traverse to the Crying Time Again bolts. I looked straight down from the second pitch anchor of Crying Time and still didn't see a single bolt on above the first one on Cry Baby. So, did the bolts get chopped? In any case, I wouldn't start up Cry Baby unless you're confident with 100+ ft. runouts on 5.8 slab.
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Cedrik
Trad climber
Bishop
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The fourth bolt is hard to see. I took what looked like the easiest line from the third bolt and never found the fourth. There's still a fair bit of lichen, but otherwise it's a very nice pitch. Definitely harder than Shagadelic, I think it's a pretty solid 5.8.
One 70 m rope gets you down far enough to downclimb easy slab to the bottom.
This may become the standard first pitch on Crying Time since it's nice and direct to the second pitch anchors, maybe that's why it's shown here as a 6 pitch climb rather than 1 pitch.
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Cryin' Time Again is route A.Photo: Greg Barnes
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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