Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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This is a great 'climb it every year' route. Make sure you bring a #4 to do the 5.9 alt finish. A well protected, one move awesome finish!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Park
Trad climber
Reno
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Bear's Reach is an absolute classic! The majority of the route has good pro, except for the first 25 ft of face climbing on the 1st pitch which is essentially a mini free solo. You can place gear 10 ft up at the start of the 1st pitch but can't place pro again for another 15 ft. So the first 25 ft of the route is a 5.6 free solo. It's not bad, just use good footwork on the small horizontal dikes. The 2nd pitch is fun with the famous bear's reach (5.7), and then 5.6 climbing up multiple corners and overlaps which is slightly runout. The 3rd pitch has a small bulge crux (5.7) on slick footholds with great pro. Then set a directional for the followers on the right traverse near the end of the 3rd pitch.
A very fun and memorable climb!
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TRIV
Trad climber
GRESY SUR AIX, FRANCE, EUROPE
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I didn't get there in 2010, so here I am again to find a buddy on 9/22 or later. I would be proud to share a rope with a local climber who could have time to waste with a french climber to help me discover american climb.
I'm around french 5.10a / 5c/6a (but my5.10d is too old to be mentionned). We could accomodate a meeting around french products, you'd tell me to bring.
Or please let me know a professional mountain guide to be hired.
Alain VIRET
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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its all right here
Click the link below for the movie
http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p122/ghoulwej/?action=view¤t=BearsReachSlowSOLO.mp4
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nate2655
Trad climber
gardnerville, nevada
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Climbed bears 2 days ago, and the bolts on the first pitch were already gone.
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harpo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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There is now a two bolt belay anchor at the top of the first pitch.
Like one other person mentioned, there is a lot of hollow rock and flexing flakes on the first and second pitches. I felt a little nervous but my more experienced partner said he's climbed on worse rock and that he felt fine.
Yesterday, some of the cracks where wet inside, and there were a few wet patches on the route, but it wasn't a problem. A little snow on the descent, and the approach from the Easter parking lot was very wet.
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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Lovers Leap is a North face and the ascent and descent will probably be very wet on November 24th .The Pie Shop's a South-West face and is a good nearby option if it's not snowing or raining .
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TRIV
Trad climber
GRESY SUR AIX, FRANCE, EUROPE
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Hello, I just PLAN to climb this route if I find a buddy to lead me up there. I'm a french "old" climber (44), for the first time in USA.
Please let me know a mountain guide name interested in, for the 24th november in South Lake Tahoe. For my first trip there, I won't have any gear, excepted maybe climbing shoes. An experienced guy looking for a buddy could agree. I'm a former mountain rescuer but I don't know anything about american rules (grades, gear, cliff equipment)and so on.
I hope to meet you there.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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This really is an outstanding little climb. Did it June 22, 2010. The "5.6R" down low is not a big deal. Good feet and hands all the way into the little corner where you can toss in a small cam or two. I thought the crux was the move there to get above that same little corner. Pull on the corner, smear your feet on not much and reach for the bomber handholds above. The wild-looking flake system above is fun and not as fearsome as it looks. Nice face climbing on the right side of the flakes with your left hand pulling on the edge of the flake. Nice to have at least one 3.5 Friend to protect this section. As folks have said, the Bear's Reach is static if you are 6' tall and you can rock up on good feet to reach it if shorter. The corner above is really fun - options all over the place, but you need to pick a little carefully. Good rests all the way from which you can sort things out.
The bulge on the third pitch is much easier if you get your feet real high and reach into the back of the crack!
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Stonedeaf
Social climber
misreading rock everywhere
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For the grade it is a great 5 star climb. Like a good golf course it has great design. 1st pitch a little run out for spice followed by a 5.7 move with 2 pieces of gear since you left the ground. 1st belay is like a couch with your feet hanging over as you bring the follower up.
Bears reach part is non existant if your tall, but the climbing is fun. Make the climbing more interesting by heel hooking huge dikes rather than climbing it like a ladder. Second belay is another exactly placed ledge. 3rd pitch 5.7 bulge can be done different ways. It has that perfectly placed incut hold making it go at the grade. 5.9 leaders can pull the final roof with all the air below, 5.7 leaders slide out right, your choice. The only knock is the unbelievable traffic it sees and the final pitch is shared by 2 other climbs.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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It's just you, Simmeron. I like having the flexible flakes grip a nut tightly but still allow them to be cleaned. Once, a second that I was belaying up the pitch was having trouble cleaning a nice solid wire, so I coached "just pull outward on the flake and it will come right out." Perfect! Seriously though, these are places you want to be placing wires, which can perfectly well hold a fall when wedged in a slightly flexible flake; not cams, which just pry the flake right off - then, if you haven't decked yet, the flake hits your belayer and it's not good for either of you. Really fun route for its grade.
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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I can see why his is a five star climb, but I'm surprised no one has said anything about the hollow flakes on the first pitch. It's probably just me, but I like my rock to be a little more solid than what's on the first pitch. The second pitch is great. The so-called Bear's Reach move seemed inconsequential. What was more exciting was pulling the bulge above and stemming/liebacking up the sustained 5.6 corner.
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Amicus
Ice climber
Bernal Flats, CA
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Climbed Bear's Reach with D&M last weekend (07.18.09) as a party of three. Great times in the shade till about noon. Definitely gets crowded at the second belay if parties converge up the lines to the left and right of Bear's Reach and all want to take the same exit slab.
More photo's of Bear's Reach climbing...
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latchkey
Sport climber
San Francisco, CA
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Climbed it this last weekend for the first time. Had a blast. Here are some pictures from the day...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/latchkey/sets/72157605782822395/
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sbecker
Sport climber
Meff-ferr, Oregon
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Did this for the second time in late April. Only a few wet spots on the first pitch, the rest of the route was dry. The approach was snow free. Not another soul on the whole cliff. A glissading descent was gravy on the cake for the day.
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jpdreamer
Trad climber
San Carlos, CA
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Despite the hollow flakes at the first belay ledge, you can set an extremely bomber anchor there. Simply slot some nuts in the crack recomended by the topo. Slide them in high, then slide them all the way down to the bottom of the crack (about 2 feet from slot to set).
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harmonydoc
Trad climber
Rohnert Park, CA
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My first time climbing/leading this route yesterday, had a great time. Runout on first pitch was not too stressful for me - terrain was not hard. Wedged myself firmly in the first belay ledge as recommended (pretty comfy). Second pitch was more thoughtful, ended up doing a few thinner face moves. Wasn't sure exactly where the "bear's reach" move was (maybe I used smaller intermediate holds?). There were 3 mangled fixed cams on the second pitch. A soloist strolled past me as I neared the (not) bushy ledge. Pretty social up there, with folks converging from 3 lines, but plenty of room. I'm 5'5 1/2", and have been leading for about a year (guess I consider myself a 5.7 leader who has made a few forays into well protected 5.8); I took my time and felt fine on this route. Go do it!
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Video of Dan Osman's solo of Bear's Reach at Lover's Leap
http://www.ebaumsworld.com/videos/fastrockclimb.html
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boo-boo --
Trad climber
Reno Nv.
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No Mr. Huge, this must be a site for 14 year old boys with small limp schlunks trying hard to compensate. In Texas they say "Big hat. . . No cattle". In climbing we say "Big spray . . . No schunker." It's nice that you got a chance to climb in the real world, but you may be happier staying in the gym pulling on a plastic prosthesis. Most people climb both easy or difficult routes for many reasons, enjoy the out doors, friendship, exersise, personal challenge, and not just because they had a tramatic experience during potty training. Well Maybe we will see you at Lover's again in a couple of years when you have grown a little . . . taller. In the mean time remember that your mother still loves you, and so do we. Smiles
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TIM SHEA
Trad climber
FORT LAUDERDALE, FLA
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Very fun & interesting climb. My wife and I enjoyed the "flakey climbing" It was a very cold day. Just "layback" and enjoy.
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huge_schlunker
Gym climber
big ego,ca
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this site must be for lame climbers doing lame sh#t.
This not even five star not classic is a semi ok romp up a big ass slab known as the east 'wall', not even approaching vertical this super easy route on an easy cliff is best approached when climbing with really lame chicks you haven't f*#ked yet. Otherwise try Fear No Evil if you want to try the best route on the wall.
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Edward
Trad climber
Santa Rosa
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Awesome climb - our first 5 star lead. First pitch - the lie back move is huge. The good hand hold is lower then you want, so you have to place your feet high and go for the jug. Makes your heart beat! - especially with the run out below. Belay station - I placed 2 large cams and a large hex, then sat on the ledge. I was basically belaying off my harness. I'm not sure what super topo means when they say place gear high. My partner Gordon lead the 2nd pitch. The Bears reach move is fun, but not hard. The rest of the pitch is hard! Do not be fooled by super topo 5.6 rating. The pro is sketchy and the holds are thin. I'm glad I bought 3 small aliens lately. Third pitch - we had a little bit of route finding trouble - I think it's better (and harder) to go straight up and not traverse right. The crux move is awesome. Work the under cling, stem up high, and find that damn jug with your left hand. It's way up high and deep - right where the 2 cracks come together in an upside down V. I wimped out and did the easy traverse right at the top. Make sure you place some pro above the crux, or your second is in for a wild swing.
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johnhl94563
Trad climber
Santa Rosa
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My second climb/lead at Lovers leap. I found the climb excellent and stimulating. I agree, the first pitch is just shy of being a R climb. There are a few times where ground hits are possible depending on how you protect the climb.
Even on a Friday in late October there were others on this route.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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ttoshi
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Wow! What a great route! It's the best 5.7 I've ever done. I thought the hardest move for me (5' 7") was on the first pitch lieback crux after the runout. I high stepped and went for the jug. On the second pitch my arms were too short for the Bear's reach, but there is a solid right foot and solid left hand to move on up, so it wasn't bad at all. On the third pitch crux, I made an easy traverse right and up to get to the undercling crack system, traversed back left to the corner crack and found the good hold--I didn't try going straight up. I brought a 3.5 camalot but never used it. It was good for me to have two sets of medium nuts. Have fun!
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Nathan Lunstrum
Trad climber
South Bend, IN
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This is the best moderate climb on the east wall... excluding the Line.
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soreeyes
Intermediate climber
South Bend, IN
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I am a vertically challenged climber standing only 5'4" and am new to trad. I did Bears Reach on my second day at the Leap and loved it. I found no problem with the so called Bear's Reach crux, just stood up on the undercling and grabbed the next hold. What I found sketchy was the run out on the first pitch. They should rethink the name.
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Mike
Novice climber
South Bend, IN
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Way fun rout.I didn't realize the crux until I lead it for the 4th time. You'd have to be pretty damn short to not stick the crux. No offense to those vertically challenged people out there. The Hogsback is a great "date" area to climb in when everything is choked up.
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DS
Novice climber
South Bend, IN
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It's a 5.7 route. How hard were you expecting it be? In any event, you're right in that the The "Bear's Reach" move is not the crux if you are tall.
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ChaztheMan
Intermediate climber
South Bend, IN
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Just did BEARS REACH today for my first time. It was pretty cool. Superpositive holds all the way up, the dikes are everywhere!!! I was dissapointed because the "Bears Reach" move isnt even that hard. The direct crack off the second belay is a little akward and the slab to the right of it is is really smooth and hard to grip. Overall it was a great climb. I just want to go back and solo it in 4 and a half minutes like DAn Osmon!
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Bear's Reach is one of the best 5.7's anywhere.Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
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