The Dude
climber
Truckee, CA
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You can thank the climbers that were there over labor day weekend for the closed gates. Cigarette butts around the base of the hobo and a small wild fire that started about 30 feet from the boulder most likely from that negligence. Calfire had to respond. Now the gates are locked, thanks guys.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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gates are closed to saddles right now. Unclear as to when (if?) they will be re-opened. Access is only possible currently through 4WD trail near cold stream canyon
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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the snowsheds are open right now!
heres a few vids from the saddles;
Kevin Kinnison "Dyno Problem" V4 Saddle Boulders - YOUTUBE
Charlie Barrett does first ascent of Wicks Sit V12! - YOUTUBE
Charlie Barret Crushing at Saddle Boulders Donner Lake YOUTUBE
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Kevin Schwartz
Boulder climber
NV
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What's the access situation these days?
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Victor Copeland likely did a new problem with some friends recently:
It is on the Midnight Train boulder. You know how the Nietzsche problems cut either left or right after the fun low moves? There's that gorgeous tall arete that takes Nietzsche right to the top of the boulder. It goes at around V4 or so, but is quite committing. A really good problem. Called it "Bull Run."
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bler
Boulder climber
Bay Area, CA
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I just visited the saddle boulders yesterday(10/16) and the gate was open from the old i-40 side into the tunnels. We did not want to stay too long for fear of getting locked out (can you say, VW Jetta 4-wheelin)
Maybe this is only open on the weekends ?
This is an AWESOME bouldering area !
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Unfortunately, access to this area is pretty tricky right now. The gate at the train tunnels looks kinda permanent.
Also, there is now a gate at Donner lake. until recently you could drive up dirt road from the middle of the south side of the lake.
The only way to reliable get there right now is with a 4 x 4
THE 4 x 4 BETA
Follow the directions for getting to Split Rock. starting at the junction of the road leaving the state park and the road that passes the gravel pits (sometimes the gate on coldstream road, just past the holiday inn, is locked). head out into coldstream valleyfrom this junction; at 0.8 miles, take the left junction, passing the ponds; at 1.7 miles bear left, heading up the valley; at 3.1 miles, where the road meets the railroad tracks, bear left; at 3.3 miles, head through the tunnel (the "mouse hole"), heading right after leaving the tunnel; at 3.7 miles, bear right, following the sign towards "n. fork cold creek"; at 5.5 miles, bear right; at 6.4 miles will be the parking for the saddles. there are numerous spur roads off of this one that must be avoided, but most are obvious that you don't want to take them. and as i said before, the tunnel contains a seasonally raging stream. for the most part though, it is relatively straightforward.
at 5.0 miles, park in a small clearing and walk straight into the woods for a few minutes. you'll find a large boulder with ~10 problems, V0-V8(?). definitely worth checking out. good luck!
thank you matt d for this beta!
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