drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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LOON LAKE - Lake Tahoe Bouldering Area - October 2015
<<ACCESS WARNING>>
The Getaway Slabs and the adjacent Getaway Boulders are on Private Property and now have NO TRESPASSING signs currently in place. Everything across the creek downhill and west of the Rubicon 4x4/Jeep Trail and the main Loony's bouldering area is now, unfortunately, PRIVATE PROPERTY. Problems #5-34 on pages 96-98 inside the current edition of my Northern California Bouldering by SuperTopo are now OFF LIMITS. {RESPECT} Bouldering at these areas or usually any areas with access issues and not respecting boundaries and landowners could threaten future access possibilities. A few bad attitudes can make all climbers/boulderers as a community look bad. Respect usually gets you respect in return. The loss of Getaway is sad but not a really big deal for Loon Lake bouldering overall since there are many other good boulder problems in the area to enjoy.
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Rubicon_Dave
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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I just want to back up the previous beta and remind folks that many parts of this area are on private property and the boundaries should be respected. I'm a long time rock climber and avid four wheeler who visits the Rubicon regularly. I also happen to know the land owner so please respect his privacy and do not trespass.
I'm a firm believer in the work that the Access Fund and the Blue Ribbon Coalition are performing for both climbers and four wheelers alike. Unfortunately it only takes a few dirtbags to ruin any gains that are made. I've been witness to some of the F-you attitudes of some of the folks that have trespassed on the property and it wasn't pretty.
Please do your part to spread the word regarding the property lines. (signs are posted)If you are willing to hike up the Rubicon trail a little further there are many more bouldering opportunities that are open and not on private land.
Thanks.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Loon Lake Bouldering
>>ACCESS ALERT<<
The Getaway Boulders and the adjacent Getaway Slabs zones are on Private Property and have No Trespassing signs in place currently. This is a big loss to the area with a lot of the most challenging boulder problems at Loon. Page 96-98 of Northern California Bouldering has the areas that are now CLOSED. There could even be possibly more areas around Loon that are on the same Private Property being closed as well. DO NOT attempt to access The Getaway Boulders or any private boulders in the area anymore because it will only have a negative impact on future access.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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There are now 350 problems sent and documented up here at Loon. Many of which are roadside, or close enough. A new guidebook is in the works. PM me for more info, or if you have FAs in the area that you want included in the guide.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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nice baggins! i look forward to going back there again this season. as far as the older post by the guy who wants us to all follow him - keep the negativity to yourself - and nice try but everyone follows me :) so if you have a problem with me or dave how about you bring it up to our face. i will see you out there this season - let me know when your going. for all the effort that you put out to diss dave and put down the guidebook why dont you direct some of that to positivity and be the change you want. list the problems that are your fa's and tell us all what the real names are if dave has it so wrong. clear it up once and for all on this website and if it stands up to the scrutiny of your peers and to dave and i then i will change the book. when i was researching the area i heard from a lot of people that dave was the main guy developing the area and i talked to him and it seems like he knows a lot about the problems there. i never heard about you. either help us make a better book, make a book yourself or get over it and stop whining.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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One of the best bouldering areas in tahoe, esp. if travelling from bay/sac valley.
Some development happened summer 2010 at area 15 mins north-west of hidden boulders. See my blog for some info
http://bowlderhuntin.blogspot.com/
Will try and make a topo next spring that covers problems in these areas, that have been dubbed "UFO area", "The Church" and surrounding erratics pinky & perky, split pea, runaway, and others. Prob. around 70 new problems, inc. some stunning splitter cracks. The granite here is superb and you get the bonus of hanging out with rednecks at the parking area
It's a good destination with the current guide, but this area will be outstanding once it's all discovered.
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Dobi
Boulder climber
Folsom, CA
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Madness went down on Saturday (5/15). I think that's second ascent. I agree with the V11 grade.
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Dobi
Boulder climber
Folsom, CA
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For what it's worth after the post preceding this, I did what Dave called Flap Happy Project on the Tall wall last weekend... it's the higher horizontal crack into Crack Addict (same start as Frisco Boot). Didn't seem more than a hard 8 or soft 9. Any one else get this before? Has it been renamed to a non-project name?
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You All follow Me
Boulder climber
placerville
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Dave you suck. We brought you to the area and now do you even bother to mention the fact that without us you would still suck? Did you claim all the first acents? More importantly, why would you glue holds on now noteworthy problems? To all that are concerned about the high ball work, rest assured we topped out all the problems while we drank and smoked to our content. There are more problems as you go down the trail but don't think because the problem is dirty or no chalk that our group has not already make an ascent. We cleaned minimally because we use dirt as chalk and love it. To all who climb here relalize that the acess is an issue due to the 4 wheeling but climbers will be grouped right along with them. Dave Nunley has named problems how he saw fit with no concern to the people who found and developed this area. He is just pissed our girlfriends out climbed him. Dave nice way to sell out your fellow climbers hard work. In the history of climbing things like ethics were remembered. This guide should have consulted the real founders of the area so that it could have been printed to accurately reflect modern bouldering history. Why would sombody print a guied to make money without collecting the accurate info? That's the work of a true outsider. Feel free to contact me and set up a meeting face to face. I don't claim to own the rock or the area, I just think the history of the area should be accurately reported. If you want to know how the area was REALLY developed, send me an email.
Bryon. Real Bouldering Crew
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Steve
Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Saturday 4th of July 2009 - The RIM Club from Sonoma County will be up at Loon Lake - come up and climb, camp and party!!!
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orange crush
Boulder climber
ca
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We just got back today, and broke the crimp right above the starting crack on ballers, feels like it will still go but atleast a grade or 2 harder now. Also we hopped on colt 45 and it feels more like v5/6 than the v8 suggested in daves nd supertopo guides.
Also we noticed a foothold broke off of 10/20 gauge start and it feels like they go more at the v7/8 range.
Anyways still a great place and I suggest everyone go and check it out.
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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Re: "who topped out Ballers?" I did.
@ drunkenmaster: I was at the loonies with Dave's topo and the Supertopo this weekend and I found some other errors you might be interested in. Send me an email if you want the run down.
-Justin
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Steve
Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
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ive only bouldered at loon about 3 or 4 times over the last year or so. Dave Nunley allowed us to use his topos to make the guide - i may have entered the info in wrong though so i will check his original topos and try to answer any questions. ill get back to you on it - - thanks for the feedback and see ya'll at the loonies this summer/fall for shizzle!!
i signed in wrong - this is not steve - this is the Drunkenmaster
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orange crush
Boulder climber
ca
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who topped out ballers?
i know a group of us are working on topping out thugs also this summer.
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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I just downloaded the topo and after perusing it for all of two minutes I've found a few errors:
'War Elephant' should be v8 or 9 definitely not a 6. Did Chris Summit climb this or anyone else for that matter?
'Baller's in the Shade' has been properly topped out and re-dubbed 'Fear of the Sun'
-Justin
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orange crush
Boulder climber
ca
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Ive been climbing here for a few years now, and im interested in seeing what all is put in the guide, the secret area with thugs in the sun, and ballers in the shade is an awesome area that i hope wasnt overlooked.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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i see where the confusion is - our list only says 50, it should read 100. the best 100. thanks for the feedback.
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Rouge
Boulder climber
Sacramento
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Only 50 problems are listed in the new guide...
Loon Lake has over 100+ established problems up to V12
There are still many, many untouched boulders out there waiting to be cleaned.
If your're physched on establishing new problems, Loon Lake is the place to go. Just walk more then 15 minutes and you'll be outside all the established stuff.
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Warming up on Jug Haul.Photo:
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