big man
Boulder climber
Novato, CA
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The right hand-hold to asian invasion has been broken. The new crimper is lower to the ground and turned slightly in a different direction. The problem might be a grade or two harder.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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An old project becomes a new problem! Charlie Barrett just did the cave arete to the left of "Groundation" - it was nicknamed "buckethead" but Charlie called it "Blind Sided" because of a flying dyno to a blind mini bucket! richie and i wouldnt even try the dyno - its a sorta scary weird V6 maybe.
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salad
Big Wall climber
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yabo roof v5??? lost keys traverse v6???
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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wow, no sh#t. even the other books don't call that roof V5. hrm
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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you know what - i frkn agree - i flashed lost keys and burn laps on it and yabo is still hard sometimes.
they should be switched - i'll check 8a.spew.
good call.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Domino #56 is rated V2 in the book. Definitely disagree on that. I can do it in tennies and I'm old and fat. Salad will probably say 5.8, and I would agree, but I probably wouldn't balk at calling it 5.9/V0-
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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thanks for the feedback - i will have to go back and do it again to see what i think. its been many years and i often cant tell a v0 from a v2.
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maestro8
Trad climber
San Hoser, CA
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I was bouldering around the Magoos yesterday and saw FVCKING HUGE TICK MARKS on nearly every boulder in 100 yd radius. Some holds had 2-3 tick marks several inches long, even. WTF is going on here?
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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you mean the low right starting edge?? it did seem like a plate/flake. i think thats the one i heel hooked - it will be harder for two moves for me now if thats the case. thanks for the info.
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big man
Boulder climber
Novato, CA
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Yes. To clarify: The lowest right handhold of Asian Invasian is broken. I saw it placed at the base of the problem
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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more feedback Chris:
Mr. Magoo is not not V1 from the stand start. V0 IMHO, but wouldn't balk at V0+ for those with a short reach that have to use the right side of the edge.
Dog Dish Traverse always seemed hella hard. Bump that one up? Maybe the feet have gotten better, but that one side pull broke in the mid nineties making it pretty stout to move left after the bowl.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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i sort of agree - mr magoo could be a solid V0 or more like v0+ with a V1 sit although i could also give it v1 stand with a v2 sit easily?? hard to tell since it is a bit reachy and kind of hard and tricky.
dog dish for sure yeh i think at least V3 or V4 or even V5 maybe?? i cant remember its been awhile for that one. i can usually do V4's and V5's at crsp pretty easy so i cant tell ratings very good for anything under v3 ish. but v2 for dog dish seems sandbagged.
thanks for the feedback munge!
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