Salathe Base, El Capitan 5.10c

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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  (5.0)
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Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 33%  (1)
4 star: 67%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
pell

climber
Moscow
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    Oct 22, 2012 - 02:46pm
80m rope is barely enough to rappel from the first (three bolt) anchor to the ground. Be extra careful - rope ends wouldn't lay on the ground, probably you'll need to downclimb some easy moves. One bolt is equipped with a rappel chain and there are a couple of slings with belay rings on the top bolt. Slings are solid and do not need a replacement now.

The route is really soft and well protected.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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    Dec 13, 2005 - 06:25pm
Pro is good on this one, and many think it feels light for the grade. If you're out with some friends cranking for the day, switching leads, try to snag this one and get your friends to lead Moby Dick or Sacherer Cracker. That's if you want to whimp out and get 10c points at the same time.

If you're solid on 5.6+ you'll get less rope drag if you 3rd class the first bit and place your first piece at a block just before you make a step right to the finger crack.

If nobody is around waiting, it's fun, once you've led the pitch to try different variations on TR. You can climb the right crack only, left crack only with a far left start, or wander all over the thing. It's amazing.

Peace

karl
Will

Trad climber
Australia
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    Jun 9, 2005 - 09:20am
Thanks for the tip to do this one, probably the best pitch I did in a very rain affected week (6-13 June 05). At least I got out before the flood! Knowing that the great moves only exist due to pin scars does take the shine off though.
El Capitan - Salathe Base 5.10c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The base routes are scattered to the left of the SE Buttress.
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.