Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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I just got this question: Do you know how many routes on Half Dome funnel through Big Sandy? Is it just the Regular Route of NWFHD? It appears that way from your Big Walls book but just want to make sure for planning purposes so that we don't get caught in a traffic jam up there.
My answer: Only Direct Northwest Face and some other obscure routes go to Big Sandy. But 95% of Half Dome traffic on that face is on the Regular Route. So all the parties on the route before and after you are almost certainly the only ones you will see on the wall.
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AndrewC
climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
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August 4, 2009, the spring is running. The team before us left 2 gallons of water, and we left 5 liters at the bivy site at the base for when the spring runs dry. They are up for grabs.
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Shimanilami
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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I'm heading up Sept. 8. Does anyone know if there's water in the springs?
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TahoeClimb
Trad climber
Westside of the Eastside
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Does anyone know how the spring is running? Planning on fixing next Monday and blasting Tuesday and Wednesday. Anybody else gonna be on the route on those days?
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Garreth Miller
Trad climber
Richmond, CA
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July 19-20, Fixed lines in decent shape. slabs approach clear. Spring was flowing well. Weather was hot even without sun before 2pm, valley temps in 90's. Had eight liters of liquid which was adequate but not luxurious. Good photo ops with all the traversing and Double Cracks!! One bivy at Big Sandy, just the two of us, comfy. Weird having tourists yelling at us from diving board as we left Big Sandy. I only brought the smallest cam hook, one or two more sizes would have sped up the aid climbing, which is straight forward. Weather report called for four days of clear skies zero chance precipitation but rain and thunderstorms on the 20th made the free climbing on the second to last pitch difficult and I opted for the hook moves, could have used a talon or similar. Be solid on those 5.9 chimneys before you go. If you are going to haul go light, with the low angle, traversing, flakes and chimneys, a heavy bag would be no fun. Incredible climb.
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Logdog
Trad climber
Sierra Nevada
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We just climbed the route on wednesday. Super rad!! The fixed lines on the slab aproach are in fine shape, some core shots, but there are alternate lines or knots at those sections. Spring is pretty much dry.
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Pastrami
Trad climber
Somewhere on this Planet
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Does anyone know what is the state of the fixed ropes on the slabs approach? Thanks
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Caddy
climber
DC
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Guy Graening and Curt Taras of Folsom, CA Climbed the North Face of Half Dome in 2 days with a night spent at the Pitch 11 Bivy. We free climbed most of the route, aiding the bolt ladders, the Zig Zags, and used aid assist in places for speed. We took a day for the approach via the trail and a morning to decend via the slabs. The heat slowed us down some since it was in the 100's in the Valley. Water was preciously available at the spring. The only little bit of trash I saw was tourist junk from the summit. We carried out a Frisbee, some bottles, and a toy airplane. The slabs descent was intact but covered in places with fresh talus from the recent rock fall. Altogether a wonderful combination alpine/big wall style route.
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whoburg
climber
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Spring had a full pool, but we couldn't see the usual trickle feeding it. We just filled up at Little Yosemite. Lot's of trash and abandonded gear @ base. I thought the pitch 14 "5.7 airy chimney" was really scary - mostly I spent the whole pitch whining and calling myself a little girl.
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Pelles
Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
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Does anyone know if the spring is still running? We are headed up there on the 26th and would like to know. Thanks
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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It was a trickle. It would take you a while to fill up lots of gallons.
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Robbie
Trad climber
Cheyenne, WY
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was up there this past weekend and the spring was still running.
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whoburg
climber
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Anyone know if the spring is still running, and if it's got another couple weeks in it? Thanks much for any info!
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tadhunt
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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We just got back from climbing this route, and had a great time. We were on the route from Sunday 7/15/2007 (fixing the first 5 pitches, sleeping at the base), until 7/19/2007 (topping out exactly at dawn!) During this time, we heard two enormous rockfall incidents during the night.
We couldn't tell where the first one was, but the second one hammered the death slabs approach for a good 30-40 seconds before stopping. We're not talking a few baseball sized rocks. It really sounded like the grand finale at a fireworks display.
We opted to hike our enormous loads up and back the long way, and while it was strenuous, it was totally worth it.
Edit to add: I forgot to mention, the spring at the base of the climb was flowing fine on 7/19.
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Ken Zemach
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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*** Water: as of 7/7/07 (a really dry year), the spring a few feet to the left of the start was still trickling, and the pool was full, so we were able to fill water no problem. No springs to the right of that point along the wall had any water; I do not know if there are more springs further to the left. UPDATE: spring flowing even better 7/15/07.
***Bivying: We bivied at the base the night before. A guy we met in the parking lot prior said to NOT bivy directly at the base of the wall, as there were several small rockfalls while they were there, and it would have been bad. We took his advice, and over the ~8 hours we were at or near the base, there were at least four small rockfall incidents, each with ~1-3 rocks from walnut to fist size that came down. One even brushed my backpack while climbing. Am not convinced that these were tourist related; perhaps wind? Either way, there are many good bivy spots directly downhill from the base of the climb; bivying directly at the base would be foolish. UPDATE: Weekend of 7/14-7/16/07 we were there and there was, again, continual small to medium rockfall that comes directly to the base at completely random times, day and night. Wear your helmet at the base.
***We did not send. A suprise leader fall near the top of the fourth pitch resulted in a dislocated knee (her foot was still cammed in the crack). Luckily, her knee popped back in place, and she was able to hobble down the slabs after we rapped. If the next party wants to grab our sling on the fixed pin and the red Camalot that she rapped from after the fall (top of p4), we'd love 'em back! UPDATE: Sent it with another friend the next weekend. Cam and sling were long gone.
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Some pitch linking beta:
From the top of pitch 12 (the 5.11c C1 or 5.9 squeeze variation) do all the chimneying in one pitch. To do this run your 60m rope all the way out (you'll have zero slack left). It's about 2.5 pitches in one, ending about 40 feet above the ledge at the end of pitch 14 at a fixed pin on a slopey stance inside, but right near the end of the chimney. Use a 3, old 4, and/or new 4 camalot for the anchor. Hauling is a breeze outside the chimney, but your second needs to help with the last 10 feet or so. The next pitch is an easy link and easy haul all the way to the end of pitch 16.
The spring at the base is flowing strong as of 6/19/07
edit: looks like cmclean already posted this beta, but I'll add that it works fine with 60m ropes.
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Sir Run-it-out
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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As of 6/25/6, the spring at the base is still flowing well.
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cmclean
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I was at the Robbins Traverse when that rock fell on Saturday. I had been slightly on edge because there was other rockfall earlier in the day as well (around 3:30am). I heard and saw the rock falling and hitting the ground, it was pretty big. About torso-sized, broke into a few head-sized rocks that went screaming down the slabs. Definitely enough to ruin your day. Glad to hear the people on the descent are safe!
After seeing that, I thought that the long approach was a better idea. After descending the long way, I'm not so sure...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I am posting the following for a friend of mine. Also posted in main forum.
On Sat. June 10 my partner and I were beginning the descent of the Half Dome slabs. We were in the talus near the top when we heard rockfall above us, originating below the major (new?) scar near Tis-sa-ack. We had barely enough time to run into the manzanita before a shower of potentially lethal blocks strafed the gully. The rocks rolled all the way down the gully before disappearing as they reached the lower slabs.
Between us we have 50+ years of climbing experience, including, in the case of my partner, alpinism. It was the closest call ever for both of us.
In retrospect, maybe this was not a huge surprise. I noted evidence of recent rockfall in the gully while on the way up. Still, it may be that it is an especially active period for rockfall in this area and the risk-averse may
wish to use alternative approach/descent options for Half Dome.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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The descent was hell!? I can't believe you made the approach in rock shoes! Good advice and congrats on the climb, but I think this goes into the "too obvious to mention" category.
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cmclean
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Beta that I haven't seen elsewhere but was very useful for our Saturday ascent: You can link pitches 13-16 into two long pitches with 60+ meter ropes. From the P12 belay, run the rope all the way to the end. On our ~63m ropes (the Mammut 60m 8.5s that seem to run a little long) we made it 3/4 of the way up the 5.9 fist of P15 to a little belay ledge without any simul climbing. From there, it is about 170' to the top of P16. If your rope is only 60m long, it would involve about 10 feet of simuling with the second on 5.7 chimney moves.
Extremely important beta: TAKE APPROACH SHOES. We decided to approach/descend in our "comfortable" rock shoes to reduce the weight of the second's backpack. The 8.5 mile descent was pure hell. Carry the weight of additional shoes, it is definitely worth it.
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DamnSmokey
Trad climber
Montana
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dmurph,
Wish I was going with you and Tom! Looks snowy. Enjoy the slog!
Josh
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dmurph
Trad climber
New Haven, CT
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Has anyone done the slabs approach yet this season? half dome cam shows a ton of snow at the base, i'm wondering how big a deal it will be to get to the start.
anyone been up there recently?
thanks,
dennis
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Denied
Trad climber
Strabane, PA
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I forgot to add on my last post, I found a belay knife in the weeds at the base. It was a bit far from the base, so I'm guessing it fell from up high. The only reason I'm even trying to get it back to the owner is that it is engraved with the person's name and a date on it.
The name is "ROB BOURNE". If you want it, reply to me with the date, and I'll know it's yours.
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Denied
Trad climber
Strabane, PA
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Hey Guys, there have been a few people e-mailing me about the pics my partner and I took when we were on the route earlier this year. I typed up a trip report and put together a photo gallery. The photo gallery has pics of just about every anchor, a shot below and a shot above. As well as a ton of others. There are over 300 pics in chronological order. To get to the route pictures you may have to forward through the home, flight camp and base pictures. Each picture is named with the pitch number first. For example if you check the properties of a pic you will see "20 looking across to Thank God Ledge" or "9 a view of the bolt ladder". Here is the link to the TRIP REPORT http://www.pittecp.org/schools/mountaineering/site/half_dome.htm and here is the link to THE GALLERY.
http://www.pittecp.org/schools/mountaineering/site/Half%20Dome%20gallery.htm
If you have any questions, or would like a copy of a picture in a higher resolution, please let me know.
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malabarista
Trad climber
Strabane, PA
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We weren't sure we could do this route with only one bivy at P17, so after doing the slabs approach we climbed and hauled up to pitch 6 and bivied there. I'd recommend this strategy to anyone with the same doubts. We started late on the approach -after 8am, but with an earlier start, you would not have to do any climbing in the dark to that bivy(we did p4-6 by headlamp). P6 bivy is not too bad, and us it was a much better feeling to be there at the end of the day, rather than at the base with 3 pitches fixed but with 17 pitches to haul. From p6 We got to Big Sandy without any big worries about running out of time the next day.
We brought a #5 Camalot for the OW after Thank God ledge, but it's only useful for a couple of moves. Still, it provided peace of mind in that section (not used anywhere else). Doubles of yellow, red, and orange aliens were very useful. No #4 is needed anywhere.
We also brought a tag line, which proved totally useless. All lower-outs can be done on the haul line.
As noted before, p22 is missing a bolt. You can either get to the higher bolt by a tricky hook move or free move, or easiest is just penji from the third bolt over to a nearby crack. From there I gained the next bolt ladder using a green alien in a pin scar, followed by a #1 hb offset to a fixed pin. Could have easily left all nuts behind for this route except that one.
We brought way too much water and ended up leaving a generous donation on the route. This route is in the shade nearly all day and you don't need anywhere near the amount of water you'd use on a sunny route. It was pretty cold despite the valley floor temps on the second half of the route.
Awesome route! And it fulfilled that vague sense of incompleteness I got everytime I looked at HD from the valley floor. It was the first wall I've done that was predominantly free climbing, -great training for switching between free, french free, and aid.
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Denied
Trad climber
Strabane, PA
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My Buddy and I were there around the 19th and the seep was great. I've seen it in the Fall when it takes awhile to fill back up, but it never seemed to even get low while we filtered. As for the missing bolt, take a hook, there is an OK edge you can use to gain the next bolt. Some things we learned, climb as high as possible on The Robbin's Traverse into the pins and passed the bolts. Makes for an easy tension and you don't have to penjy. Pitch 11s aid was laid back enough I never brought out the aiders. I just pulled on every piece until the tension traverse. Pitch 14, take the so called scary 5.7 chimney. It's easy, quick and takes small wires until you can clip a piton. The 5.8 offwidth passed Thank God Ledge sucks but remember, it's over quickly. Have a blast Bro. If you need further Beta from a couple of weekend climbers, I've got over 100 pics, with shots of every anchor including above and below. The route is truly a blast.
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kilgymrats
climber
NC
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Oscar,
I was up there in mid Aug. and the spring was still going. Not strong, but it was there. If it's been as dry as it was when I was there I doubt it's still going. Anyway, the fixed ropes were in place as well and seemed to be...ehhh..in pretty good condition. Just a word of caution, as stated below. It's not any real big deal but pitch 22 does seem to be missing the 4th bolt requiring a manditory free move up to the penj bolt. It was semi-easy face moves..but a little sketchy none the less. Just don't be caught w/o your climbing shoes. Enjoy man!
~jOsh
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Oscar
Big Wall climber
NC
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We are planing to climb the regular NW Face during the week 12-18th of this month and we are looking for information about the springs, the fixed ropes on the slabs and any other helpful beta we can get.
Thank you
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outdooreric
Trad climber
Mammoth
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As of July 29, 2004 the spring was running but weakly. I wouldn't anticipate it lasting much longer without more storms to replenish it.
There appears to be a missing piece of fixed gear on pitch 22, requiring mandatory 5.9 face climbing on the first bolt ladder of the topo. It is also possible to tension left to a piton from the fourth (now third) bolt and skip the tricky cam hook move.
We brought along a #4 camalot and found it to be absolutely useless. It doesn't protect any of the chimneys nor the squeeze after "Thank God Ledge". A #4.5 or #5 camalot would work, but shouldn't be considered mandatory unless planning on sliding it up with you. There is other pro in the pitch 14 chimney using nuts, micro cams and fixed pins.
Do it in a day, hauling would be pretty ugly!
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Denied
Trad climber
Strabane, PA
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Was supposed to head out there over Memorial Day, work precluded that. Looks like we're going to try again for Aug17 - Aug30. If you read my previous post, this will be my 3rd attempt. Haven't been to the Valley since 2002. Anyone been on the slab approach / route lately? Still looking to fix two ropes to p4. Both ropes are 239' long. I know p1&2 are 260, might set up an intermediate anchor. Anybody climbing the route during that time frame? How's the spring? Also, I would appreciate any photos of the route, especially of the belays. If I send it this time, I'll definitely set up a trip report with a ton of photos and info. This route has been my nemisis!
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Before doing Half Dome in a day, I looked around for postings that listed times for various pitches on the route and didn't find a huge amount. So here's my time percentage for various points on the routes from when my partner and I climbed it. The listing is based on both climbers just getting to the top of the pitch.
P6 20%
P10 30%
P12 38%
P15 50%
P17 56%
P20 80%
We are better free climbers (including chimneys) than we are aid climbers and to save weight, we took minimal aid gear. So the zig zags took a while (straight forward, but slow). The pitches after the zig zags were slow due to fatigue and darkness (we started several hours after daybreak). There was a day party above us, and a party hauling below us, but neither slowed us down. The only jugging the second did was on the zig zags and we got by with one ropeman and a grigri (real jugs would have saved a bit of time here).
We only took single cams from tight hands up to a 3.5 friend (same as #3 camalot). The trigger wire on the 3.5 broke part way up, so our largest piece was a 3 friend (slightly larger than a #2 camalot). In the future, I would probably only take the #3 friend (skip the 3.5) and instead take more lighter, finger size cams to leave as pro on the aid pitches. I didn't aid off any stoppers, but I left a few behind as pro on the aid pitches. There is plenty of fixed gear on the aid pitches (bring lots of slings). I got by without a cam hook or any offsets (aliens or stoppers). I found some of the bolts on P22 pretty reachy and I'm 6'.
A #4 friend (#3.5 camalot) would protect the double crack on P17. There is an inside edge for the hands and a second crack for the outside foot, so you don't have to fist jam it. It is pretty secure for 5.9. There was not as much pro as I was expecting on the 5.9 squeeze on p14. In retrospect, the 5.7 airy chimney might have been as safe (and no doubt less strenuous).
We linked pitches and did some simul-climbing. P 2 & 3 link without simul-climbing. We linked 5 & 6 with simul climbing (the second had to simul through a short 5.9 pin scar section). From P6 we simul (watch rope drag) to the end of P 10. We used rope tension to pull the second up the bolt ladder as the leader lowered off on P10. We were going to simul out from Thank God Ledge on but darkness and fatigue precluded it. We also had some rope drag due to blocks right before the 21 anchor (after the 5.8 squeeze).
The spring at the base is running fine.
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Hal
Trad climber
Ridgway, PA
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I hope to be fixing the first pitches on Sunday the 6th or monday the 7th. Anyone been up there lately??? I got some excellent beta from Luke Taylor but I was wondering if I can be sure to find the spring/trickle/seep or whatever it's called running well enough to filter our water at the base instead of carrying our water up the slabs. Also, Luke mentioned a rockfall that happened last summer that took out some of the fixed ropes on the approach. I approached via the slabs two years ago and did not find it to be that bad. What is the deal now??? Is the slabs approach more difficult now??? I will be checking this message tomorrow,(FRIAY the 4th). Please respond before tomorrow at 5pm. After that I leave to catch my flight to Frisco.
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Luke
Trad climber
CA
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Bivi on P11 is actually not all that bad, if there's two of you and you're tired enough (although most likely you will have to pad out some of the holes/blocks to make it a little less uncomfortable). Plus by then you're actually on the face, it's a way more awesome place to wake up in.
The P6 bivi is sloping, but the rock is smooth- your call, but I'd rather go with the P11, even if it makes for a longer day. Main reason for this is when we were there, it was clear this P6 ledge had been hammered by rockfall (probably small, but still, there were recent scars and dust on the ledge). Remember that here, you're still on the shoulder and not on the face proper (although I'm not saying you're safe from anything on P11, it just seems/feels safer to me).
Finally, and following from Karl's post, everyone PLEASE respect the drip/seep at the base, yes it is often there late in the season, and a lot of climbers rely on it. Keep it clean.
Enjoy, it's an amazing route!
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del cross
climber
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I slept at pitch 11 with my partner. Same as you we didn't think we could make it to Sandy and didn't want to put off climbing the route until we were faster. I remember well my partner's cry of disappointment when he reached the bivy. It was a miserable narrow ledge of talus. My spot included a four foot deep, one foot square hole where my hips would be. And it was too narrow up by my chest. My partner's site didn't look any better. I wedged my helmet into the hole, piled ropes around it, and squeezed my shoulders between a rock and the wall. But we were so tired we slept well anyways. I suppose fatigue could make a bed of nails feel soft.
If you're not expecting much, the pitch 11 bivy won't disappoint you. Pitch 6 looked pretty sloping as I recall.
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Hal
Trad climber
Ridgway, PA
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I will be in the valley from June 5th. We plan on doing the N. West face first. Is the spring still running in the second week of June??? Any other beta of interest????
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Pitch 11 looked pretty miserable. My friend has shared that ledge with another party (total of 4) and he lived, but didn't sleep. I think 1 person could sleep comfortably on 11, maybe. Pitch 6 ledge was pretty comfy. Just fill in low spots with clothes and the rope and enjoy. Big Sandy is very comfy to sleep on, but damn is it exposed! You'll love it when you get there!
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hamid
Trad climber
Berkeley, California
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How bad are pitch 6 and pitch 11 bivies for 2 on this route? I hear 17 is real nice, but we might not make there on the first day.
thanks.
-Hamid
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sfclimber
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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I hope to fix the first pitches on May 28, starting the rest of the climb on the 29th. Might start a day earlier to avoid the crowds. See you there.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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I don't think that you can make it from the 2nd pitch. Not that I measured it, but I remember the pitch lengths being about what Supertopo said on those two. Good luck!
Josh
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Denied
Trad climber
Strabane, PA
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I'm heading to The Valley from 21May - 31May.
Two questions:
1st, I know we'll have company, but are there any others out there that will be looking to climb The Regular NW Face of Half Dome while we're there? Just curious.
2nd, I've been on the route, without a success, twice now (long stories) I'm looking at fixing two ropes all the way to the top of p4. Usually I've only fixed to p3. One is 200', the other 228' Can the 220' make it from the top of p 2 to the ground? SuperTopo says, p1 160' and p2 100' P4 always takes awhile, so I'd like to have that in the bag the morning we head up. How accurate is the 160' and 100' and does that include for the rope line meandering?
Any beta would be appreciated, Thanks.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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It is critical that you ABSOLUTELY MUST NOT TAKE A DUMP IN THE CHIMNEY BEHIND BIG SANDY LEDGE!!
This is where the Direct NW face route meets the regular route and it's no fun to climb that chimney if folks have been crapping in there.
Wall climbers should bring poop tubes or dry bags and day climbers (and folks who just tough it out on big sandy) should still take lightweight preparations in case nature calls.
Enjoy!
Karl
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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yes, the uprights on the cables are down till memorial day or so. for the moment the cables lie flat against the rock.
this is no biggie. it can actually be faster to get down right now if you have thick leather gloves and don't mind running down head first (let the cable run against you pants for a little extra friction.)
some friends did the reg route on half dome on sunday. route was clear. a little snow at the last anchor but no biggie.
the one thing to be concerned about right now: returning from the shoulder of half dome to the base is a little sketchy. big snowfield that drops to a steep slab to a 2000 foot cliff. use a belay for this section.
or do what most people do and just descend via the muir trail.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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yes, the uprights on the cables are down till memorial day or so. for the moment the cables lie flat against the rock.
this is no biggie. it can actually be faster to get down right now if you have thick leather gloves and don't mind running down head first (let the cable run against you pants for a little extra friction.)
some friends did the reg route on half dome on sunday. route was clear. a little snow at the last anchor but no biggie.
the one thing to be concerned about right now: returning from the shoulder of half dome to the base is a little sketchy. big snowfield that drops to a steep slab to a 2000 foot cliff. use a belay for this section.
or do what most people do and just descend via the muir trail.
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sfclimber
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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I seem to recall reading somewhere that the cables are permanent year round, but the posts to hold them up at waist height are removed (and possibly the wood 'step' slats too, not necessary for safe descent but make life easier).
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Brit-waller
Trad climber
UK
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Hi,
Myself and another Brit partner are planning to climb regular north west face in late May. Any advice re. weather (especially what snow conditions have been this year and are now), temp's etc. appreciated. We have beta on the climbing, want any background info. We hope to do the route in a day, or have a chilly bivi on big sandy (no bags, mats etc). We expect the cables to be down - does this matter and make the descent difficult (we wont have haul bags)?
Thanx for info.
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Couloir
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Erich,
Half Dome is a very dicey climb at the end of March. Just getting to the base of the route means ascending some steep snowfields. All of the ledges will be covered with snow and ice, as will several of the cracks. The end of March is also the stormiest time in the valley. That time last year was the start of one month of near daily rain and snow. You would be better doing Washington's Column or Leaning Tower or El Cap. And the cables stay there year round but are not mounted up in the winter so you have to pick them up and hike down icy and snowy slabs.
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Southern Man
climber
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I got a documentary movie of the route being free climbed (titled oddly enough - Free Climb). Got it at Chessler Books and a whole bunch of mag. articles on the route. I guess you have Scott Ghiz's pitch by pitch description.
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Whatever
Trad climber
Strabane, PA
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Looking for pics of the route. I've been on it twice. Once to the bivy at 6 and once to the belay at 8. Don't ask, it'll get sent this year! Don't care with who, when, whatever! I've searched the web pretty extensively, got what was good, but sitting here in the dreary weather of the NorthEast could always use some more. If you're interested in swapping info / ideas or want to hook up at Seneca or The New to climb, drop me a line. Looking to head out to The Valley in Jul, Sep and any other months I can convince someone into going.
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Matt
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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I'll bet you can track down info on the cables through the Mountain Shop in the Valley, or through the NPS if that fails. Last year at that time there was lots of snow on the route- even into April if i recall, because there was a series of Spring storms and that face doesn't get much sun until the sun moves a bit to the North. Expect to find a lot of snow at the base, plan for a huge time consuming pain in the ass, both on the approach & getting back around to the base, and make some back-up plans just in case.
Would I want to do that climb in the early part of the season if there wasn't an early season warm spell to dry the Valley up some? Nope...
But hey, have fun.
http://www.halfdomecam.com/
http://www.yosemite.org/vryos/index.htm
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Southern Man
climber
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Read the last post on this beta page by Scott G. and then go to his web site (use the "Search Internet for Beta") for more useful info. Scott did the route in May and reported pretty chilly conditions in the a.m. I think you will be rolling the dice regarding weather for the time of year you plan on climbing (check rainfall amounts and temps for Yos. on the Supertopo web site). Pacific storms roll in with regularity during this time of year, so come prepared. On the other hand, it's possible to hit a clear weather window and have the NW face all to yourselves. Three climbers (at least in the case of me and my regular two climbing partners) will slow you down some which means that doing the RNWF in a day could be a challenge. So if it takes you more than one day, I assume you'll be hauling and this route isn't the easiest for hauling (again read beta on Scott's web site). My last bit of advice is to give alot of thought to your approach, it can make all the difference in success or failure.
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Erich Krueck
Trad climber
Huntington Beach, CA
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Hey! Well I have some questions I was hoping someone could help me with. Two friends and I were hoping to climb HD. The only time we can all make it is the last week in March '04 I’m not overly familiar with Yosemite's Climate, what kind of temperature range could we be expecting? Would this be a dangerous time of year to do it? Also, for the descent are the cables usually up that time of year and if not what would be the best way out? Any info would be greatly appreciated. THANKS
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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The incubation period for giardia, cryptosporidium and campylobacter is 2 - 12 days.
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Neil
Gym climber
Here and there
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The spring is in good shape. I'd filter though. I drank 10+ liters from it last week without filtering and am running to the throne 10-20 times a day. Not pretty.
Neil
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Southern Man
climber
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When people say the approach is the crux and to go light and fast, do not and I repeat do not underestimate what they are saying. The slabs approach is tough, way tough especially with 60+ pound packs. It took us six long, hard hours to get to the base and we were WAY tired when we got there. I can really understand why some people don't even attempt the route after doing the approach. We were pretty sure the approach was going to be a haul and were in good climbing and hiking shape from 8 months of running and training for this route but we should have gone way lighter with the packs. And the Mist/Muir Trail approach (8.2 miles) isn't much easier. Also, if you opt. to take the Mist/Muir trail approach, it looks like getting from the shoulder to the base of the climb takes some not so obvious trails. On the positive side the Supertopo directions for the Slabs were super accurate.
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Matt
Trad climber
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The slabs approach is the crux.
There were 4 parties of 2 on Monday 6/16 and 4 parties of 2 starting up on the next day as well- if you are planning to this route on a weekend you might want to be early!
The ST is awesome for this route.
You don't need nuts at all.
Bring a 3 and a 3-1/2 cam.
What a great day!
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Jason Archibald
Trad climber
MD
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I climbed HD for my second time on May 17-19, 2003 with my pal Curtis.
Jer, the chimney pitches have plenty of smaller cracks in them and pro is no problem. I would aid the diehedral on the left on pitch 12, then tension travese back to the chimney. You won't need anything larger than a #3 Camalot for pitches 12-15. The squeeze slot on pitch 20 after thank god ledge could take a #5 Camalot, but that's the only time you would use it on the entire route.
The snow at the base extended all the way down to the normal bivvy spots, so we slept just below that. The spring was running like a small river from the snowpack! There was some water in the chimney pitches (12-15) and on the double crack pitch (17), which was too bad since this is some of the best free climbing on the route.
Pitch 22 had a lot of water on the last half of it, which made the french freeing (or is it freedom freeing now? heh) along the headwall MUCH more diffifult. And pitch 23, we couldn't believe it, was entirely covered with snow. It was a class 3 snow ramp! My buddy nearly dead-manned a #4 Camalot as pro! :)
Incredible climb, despite the water on the route it was much better than the first time I did it.
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Jer
Trad climber
Rochester MN
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The whole route looks do-able for where my ability is at! Just feel sketch about the squeezes up high. I'm trying to figure out a fast not so scary way to get through those sections. Does any one know the dimetions of the chimneys? How deep? How wide? Would a big cam be able to be slid along for a consant toprope on lead?
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Luke
Trad climber
CA
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Jer-
I hiked up to the base of HD on the 12th march from mirror lake. You'll find a few patches of snow on the way up, no big deal really, and there was a lot of ice covering the last fixed line- although most of it came down when tugged on it. scary. I would not recommend being halfway up those slabs when the sun gets on them (midday-ish?). Also, the 'sloping bivi', p6, was obviously covered in snow as was the 'hotel' ledge half way up the Direct, not to mention the large snowfield across the base (i dont think this is really a problem though). Also noticed some seepage from the chimneys, p13 maybe. Hope this helps- enjoy your climb!!
Also, thanks to whoever added the two red fixed lines!
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Jer
Trad climber
Rochester MN
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Hello all!
I'm heading out to the valley mar 23 and have just a couple of Questions;
1) Will the base of the regular route on half dome be reachable?
2) What are some bench mark times to reach certain points on the route to do it car to car in a day (24hrs)?
3) What would be a few cracks be that emulate what the zig zags are like?
I can onsight any 5.10 and plan on simo-ing anything less than that. I am from Minnesota but this will be my 10th year climbing in the valley so I am familiar with the terrain!
All beta appreciated!!!
Cheers!!
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jung
Big Wall climber
Subaru wagon
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I climbed this absolutely stellar route in June 02, it was the most enjoyable big wall that I have ever done, I think mainly because it had so much free climbing at a comfortable level and there arent many(any?) pitches that are yosemite sand bags.
We climbed the route as a team of 3, one leading, one cleaning and one jugging a free line with a seperate rack and a back pack with our bivy gear and a mini rack to supplement the leader with gear placed on the last pitch. We had an 8mm tag line, and two lead lines, with three 60m ropes we were able to fix the first five pitches just barely. #2 and 3linked with rope stretch. The chimney pitches can be almost completed in one 60m pitch, this saved us quite a bit of time, however you do need some wide gear for the belay at the end (like a number 3 and 4 camalot). I do not recommend this if you are hauling because this belay area would really suck if you were and may slow you down more than doing the regular pitches.
I tried this wall as my first wall and failed miserably cause we were hauling too much sh#t which slowed us down to a crawl at the start (really bad hauling). This time we only had one backpack between three, 3 liters of water per day(at the time we climbed the route was in the shade until 2 pm) and had the most enjoyable big wall so far i highly recommend going light on this one.
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TK
Intermediate climber
Subaru wagon
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Did the climb in two days, spending 1 night on Big Sandy. The temps in The Valley were in the 90s but felt somewhat cold wearing pants and a windproof jacket on the dome. The temp. change is pretty drastic and the winds can cool things down pretty quickly. The spring was still flowing and filtered all the water I needed. All I can say is that a mid-August ascent was a perfect time to do this classic.
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Austin
Intermediate climber
Subaru wagon
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Climbed the route 5/11-5/12, entirely dry except for last pitch, approached via the slabs on Friday PM where we found all but the last two fixed ropes in place and proceeded to bushwhack to the base, quite heinous. We left gear at the base and returned to retrieve it on Sunday after descending the cable route. There are several snow slopes to cross on this gear retrieval which would be quite treacherous to cross anytime other than in the afternoon after they have softened up so plan accordingly. Excellent route, easily run in two days with minimal bivi gear.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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RETREAT BETA
At any point on the climb, you can retreat by rappelling the route. There are some sections like Thanksgiving Ledge and Double Crack Pitch that will require a mixture of rappeling and belayed climbing.
About two thirds of the anchors are fixed with either bolts, pitons, or fixed gear. On all the other anchors, you will have to leave your own gear.
Here is a list of anchors that are NOT fixed:
12, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21,
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Half Dome is crowded from june to october. The best strategy is to show up at the base with an extra day to wait in line and allow for parties to get high on the route. temps in august can occassionaly be scorching in the afternoons but for the most part, half dome is a cool place to climb year round. A portaledge is overkill if you are planning to do the route in two days. if you are planning to spend more than that a portaledge would be nice. however, keep in mind that the approach to half dome is grueling and any extra weight will suck. also, the hauling is terrible on this route and the porta ledge will need to be packed inside the haulbag or it will get thrashed. i would reccomend training until you get fast enough to do the route in one night (bivy on big sandy). its much more fun that way.
good luck!
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Michael
Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
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We are planning to climb the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome next summer via big wall tactics (3days). What time of summer is best to avoid the crowds? We don't mind a little heat as long as your feet aren't on fire.
Is August too hot and are the crowd down? Would a portaledge be way overkill or would it be nice to chill on night 1 or if Big Sandy is too crowded? I am also wondering if the mandatory free climbing sections protect well (anything 5.7+ or harder).
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Em Holland and Bruce Bindner
Advanced climber
Mill Valley, CA
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NW FACE OF HALF DOME
In June 2001, 3 new bolts were placed on NW Face of Half Dome to supplement or replace existing old 1/4" bolts at three bivy ledges. All drilling was done by hand.
P6 belay anchor, placed one new 3/8" Rawl 5-piece stainless bolt on the face above bivy ledge, just to left of main crack. This bolt is positioned to either back up the existing fixed pins/tied off block 15-20 ft below the bivy ledge, which currently serves as the only reasonable hauling anchor. With long slings or rope it can also back up the marginal bolt and gear placements which anchor a bivy on the sloping ledges.
P11 belay anchor, placed one new 3/8" Rawl 5-piece stainless bolt on right side of ledge, replacing two old 1/4" bolts. Removed existing 1/4" stud (no hanger, damaged threads), and existing 1/4" x 1.25" splitshaft buttonhead with Leeper hanger. Given the manky appearance of this old bolt, it was surprisingly difficult to remove. Patched hole with rock dust & Superglue.
P17 belay anchor (Big Sandy Ledges), placed one new 3/8" Rawl 5-piece stainless bolt on face at base of the left-hand crack starting P18 for use as a bivy/belay anchor and a hauling anchor. Note: there was an existing, relatively new 3/8" stainless bolt on a large, but apparently detached block at back of Big Sandy Ledges above where Direct NW Face route joins in. The hanger on this bolt was loose (spun easily), and the bolt itself could be unscrewed with finger pressure. We tightened this bolt, however we would recommend that subsequent ascent parties keep an eye out for potential loosening of either the bolt or the block it is attached to.
NOTE FROM CHRIS MCNAMARA
Em and Holland did a great service which all climbers should be thankful for. To find out how you can replace bolts, visit www.safeclimbing.org
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