Sierra ice conditions

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
Blue Eisele

Big Wall climber
Reno, NV
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
I was wondering if anybody had any recent info on conditions for mendel couloir left and north peak. Thanks
Blue Eisele

Big Wall climber
Reno, NV
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 11:03am PT
bump
ninjah

Big Wall climber
a van down by the river
Sep 2, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
this time of the year it's hard blue ice, sweet late season fun, go get some!!!!@
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Sep 22, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
"this time of the year it's hard blue ice, sweet late season fun".............oh yea? Who's been up there this month? What's up, left side and right of North Peak. Thanks in advance.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Sep 22, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
Don't know about Men or North, but Dana looked good from the road last weekend.
Chugach Man

climber
Anchorage / San Diego
Oct 1, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
Looking for info on Mendel as well - anyone seen the ice (or if there is any) up there recently?
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 1, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
I was up on NORTH Peak doing the N. Coulor around the 1st of Sept and it was half Neve and half ice. 4-5 Pitches with a 60m. 6-7 screws. No rock pro was used...i did take some. ALL belays were screws. Have NO idea of conditions of Mendel. NO one at SMC has guided or been in that area this year. Have a fun hike if you go in there. Most years it ends up melting out....
Dave Sisolak

climber
So Cal
Oct 27, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
Bump for recent conditions.
franky

climber
Davis, CA
Oct 27, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
Was up on near Mount Thompson thinking of climbing the Harrington Couloir. Some pretty bad post holing on the way up to the cirque. Lots of snow above 11k. The couloirs looked mostly snow filled from a distance, never made it up to them.

Upon reviewing the photos i took, there were small patches of ice visible in the Knudtson and Smrz couloir on thompson, none visible in the Harrington and North Couloir of Gilbert. No bergschrund visible.

Conditions are a bitch to get up there, but it may still be possible to climb ice, although far from certain. I guess there is supposed to be more snow this week, which I would think would certainly put an end to any hope of ice climbing.

I'll try to remember to post up the photos later...
rhyang

climber
SJC
Oct 27, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
Dana Couloir last Friday -


Looked at it through binoculars the next morning .. white and smooth, maybe a small cornice at the top ? Might be a nice ski trip :)

Franky - your attempt reminds me of November 2006, when I and a friend headed up to try Gilbert or Thompson.



The talus was a postholing nightmare. We decided not to epic and just headed back to the car.
franky

climber
Davis, CA
Oct 27, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
Yeah, those conditions look pretty similar to the current ones, at least as far as snow. couldn't see any ice on Gilbert though.

Lots of people eating powder holes in that talus on the way up.
franky

climber
Davis, CA
Oct 27, 2009 - 09:27pm PT

Thompson and Gilbert Couloirs, from last weekend, 10/25/09
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 28, 2009 - 12:07am PT
One of your guides just went in and did North pk(10-23-09). He said that he had a great calf PUMP. He also said that there was a fair amount of snow getting up to the summit once you top out the ice.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Nov 6, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
Definitely curious to know what you find !
rhyang

climber
SJC
Nov 9, 2009 - 04:42pm PT
Headed up this past weekend just to look around -

Dana Couloir from Saddlebag Lake Rd, looked about the same as last time

North Peak, left couloir

Middle & right couloirs

approach conditions


Sounds like the next storm is coming in over Veteran's Day ..
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 10, 2009 - 01:42am PT
11-08-09 Came back from the Valley and stopped to look at the ice in Lee Vining Canyon...basically none...

Parker Canyon did look good. Check it out with a pair of bino's. Take your bike to get up the gated road. ( I think it is gated..I did not drive up to look.)

No real update on any of the Alpine route.
Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
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