Dingus Milktoast
climber
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May 19, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
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Yes nutjob... do the NE Face of Lower Cathedral Spire. Not the "Regular Route"... its sterner cousin.
BTW, pretty cool you didn't die on that pitch. You gotta be proud of yourself man, keeping it together like that. That face pitch can make your anus fold up like the end of a hot dog.
DMT
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Dingus Milktoast
climber
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May 19, 2009 - 12:09pm PT
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Hey Bruce
That last pic does a great job at illustrating the crux... the next 30 feet are 'don't look back' terriroty for sure haha.
I remember better now... there are some good locks behind untrustworthy flakes that draw you up for 'one more look.' I led that pitch on our first time up the route and we switched lead pitches the 2nd time. I remember getting sucked up that thing to the point of no return. Oh SH#T....!
That crack just above the leader? Awkward for a few moves, off balance. One of our trips I found it was way easier to layback the right side of the thing - way more scarier though. (like the awkard 5.7 at the start of the DNB - way easier to lieback than to jam straight in)
DMT
ps and there's nutjob's dead tree. That's where we always belayed from as well.
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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Yeah, beta for folk who want to go up there now, the tree is good enough.
We also made an intermediate belay this time past the rocking pillar but before the run-out face... somewhere right in the fracture line of the shearing headwall. Each piece looked decent, but the overall position and rock quality left me feeling uneasy. I think it's the right strategy though.
Here's a pic looking down from the spot:
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 19, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
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This is a great thread. thanks all!
Zander
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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May 19, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
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Adventures abound!
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
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Alright homies, grab your popcorn and your blankies, and brace yourselves for a feature-length presentation (almost):
http://www.vimeo.com/4776865
Don't start watching it at work unless you have some time to kill!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
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May 21, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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deuce4 : " Walt and I onsight soloed it together once. It started raining half way up . I was pretty gripped . "
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 11:20pm PT
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That whole 'we onsight soloed it' thing is mind-bending. Clear proof that badassedness has an exponential distribution (with well-known characters from this site pretty far on the right side of that curve).
John, how did you guys get off during that adventure? We had 8 raps and a couple hour walk-off after reaching the summit. I was looking over at the open slabs and imagining you and Walt cruisinig down that thing when it was wet. shiver
Edit: But I suppose that part would be casual after the actual business!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 21, 2009 - 11:56pm PT
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make a big bowl of popcorn!
I like the line:
"Trophies of our Shame"
definitely route-name material!
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Dingus Milktoast
climber
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May 22, 2009 - 07:07am PT
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Excellent pics Clint. I have some from Taft Point but they weren't clear enough to post.
The only quibble I have with the line is you show it going around the left of the giant flake above the runnout face when in fact if chimney's behind it, straight up.
DMT
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
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And the route touches the right side of the shaking pillar on P2
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
above the play park
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May 26, 2009 - 11:08am PT
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Sounds like y'all need to check out this little canyon near Gunnison...
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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I admit it's a shameless self-bump, but I've gotta scratch my bro's back after he scratched mine.
Both times on Hawkman's, I wanted NO part of that backless chimney deal. First time through, I was upset when le_bruce came down partway up the pitch led by headlamp well after dark. Next morning after he went back up, I fell while trying to follow and I nearly poopled myself imagining him up there by headlamp the night before after what we had been through.
Next time in mellower circumstances, he charged it again, and I was greatly relieved. Still wanted no part of it. But I didn't fall this time!
Thanks homey for saving me from dealing with that. I guess that's a sign of a good partnership: you each follow stuff where you said "I'm glad I didn't lead that"
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 28, 2009 - 07:43am PT
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Back in 1975 Ed Ward and I did a variation to the finish. See below the wider yellow line surmounting the roof up and to the right of the final walk-off. It was 5.11a and had several tough moves over the roof/bulge via a flaring nubbly fingertip crack with doubtful protection. The slab above was trivial.
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