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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 28, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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Driving in to Yos via the Tioga Rd we saw this prominent right facing corner feature right of the 3rd Pillar:
...and promptly laid plans to climb it.
What is this wall called? Anyone have ascent history? Paging Mr. Cummins...
Our line:
Overall good climbing. A teensey bit loose of course and a bit of a butt crack issue (flared pinched cracks), but quite fun. The last pitch is a doozy!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 28, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
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How'd it go?
THat's a cool looking wall. I bet everyone scopes it from the third pillar. Way to get it done.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Jul 28, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
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The Lundeen Brothers, Jim and Bill, have done a couple routes over there. Not sure which lines, but they were pretty psyched. This was a few years ago now.
Congrats.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Jul 28, 2010 - 05:29pm PT
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Kurt Stolzenberg did a couple of route up on that back in the late 70's.
Nice going!!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 28, 2010 - 05:36pm PT
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It may have been done by AbleGable...He has done a bunch over there.
kev
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 28, 2010 - 05:40pm PT
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Cool stuff!
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Jul 28, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
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Many mountain guides go over there when clients bail on third pillar or if the weather is not looking promising. There are multiple lines over there, all seem to go, or at least go up. I have not gone that far to climbers right, possibly someone else has. Lots of lines over there.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 28, 2010 - 05:53pm PT
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The Alpine getting it done..
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
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Definitely lots of lines over there. You cant really see that section of the wall from the 3rd pillar - only from below. Pretty cool ridge to get back to the rim.
So does this wall have a name or what?
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2010 - 01:21pm PT
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So footloose - it appears that top pic of yours was taken from in the large corner system. Looks like you guys were in the main corner itself? Awesome! We scoped the main system but ended up taking a line a bit right.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 29, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
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Hey Alpine
Nice job.
I see 8 pitches
got an estimated rating?
How did you approach it?
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
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Approach: down the 3rd pillar descent then a bit lower then across talus. Scramble up about 50 feet to a stance in a stembox below a 3 foot chockstone roof.
Pitch 1 goes over the chockstone roof and then 3rd class to the base of a wall with a fingers and hands splitter just right of a prominent right facing corner. 5.9ish
Pitches 2 and 3 can be done as 1 megaclassic pitch to a ridge. 5.9ish
Pitch 4 ride the awesome golden ridge to a ledge at a tree. 5.6ish
Pitch 5 is really just a belay move right across the top of a gully to another tree and ledge.
Pitch 6 step right off the belay to some butt cracks up these to a bush then face climb left to a belay on a small butress. 5.10ish
Pitch 7 up the corner to a small stance on the left. 5.9ish
Pitch 8 this is what you came for. Step right to more buttcracks, through a short stembox then up splitters to the top. 5.10+ish
Ride the ridge towards the 3rd pillar until it eventually joins into the 3rd pillars descent about halfway up.
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hossjulia
Social climber
Eastside
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Jul 29, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
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"Pee Wee's Next Adventure" is, I believe, the name of a 5.10a route Bill and Jim put up on that wall. Pretty sure right about where your red lines are. :)Sounds like you did the 2nd.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 29, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
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Glad to hear there are other routes up there. Since I've been on ST I've begun to think that the Third Pillar was one of only 5 routes in California- you know what the other ones are.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 29, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
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Alpine- I didn't send the corner, I was just out
scoping for obscurities as you were in this off-area.
Lots of loose rock out there, some trundling needed.
Looked like fun.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 30, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
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Probably all 3d Pillar climbers have looked at that fine wall. At least I have (and I haven't climbed the 3d).
Excellent job going up there to do it. Even if it's a second ascent. Think of it.....all those climbers and so few ascents.
hossjulia: who are Bill and Jim?
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