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WBraun
climber
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Sep 28, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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You guys are all bad ass bolts or no bolts who cares.
You sac monsters are all the rage ...... :-)
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 28, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
Sep 28, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
"Looks like an ice over gully where you could but screws in every five feet. Also cool that you have all that aid gear with you, crampons, ice axes, ice screws, aiders, ropes, and so on....nice."
Haha "an ice over gully where you could but screws". Yeah I'm the dumb ass.
You should go try to repeat a few of these routes. Just wear all 50 pairs of your Lycra so your vag doesn't freeze shut.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 28, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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You should go try to repeat a few of these routes. Just wear all 50 pairs of your Lycra so your vag doesn't freeze shut.
Ouch..that really hurts.
John...let it go until your visit. Looking forward to meeting you.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 28, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
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Mt 10910 wrote: Bob, not that it matter, but
John is the real deal.
he is suckering you in with photos
of slabs
It doesn't. What do think he is gonna do? I say nothing.
The internet is a strange world were everyone talks smack. He wants to meet I have no issues with that. People tends to act different in the real world.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 28, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
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"It doesn't. What do think he is gonna do? I say nothing".
You're the one that wanted to fight, at least before you edited your post. I'll let you know where I'll be when I make it down there. Maybe we'll both luck out and you'll show up with some beer instead?
Sh#t another slab on yet another grade VI FA
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 28, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
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How did this wonderful thread about retrobolting devolve into this? Bob you have my respect. John you have my respect. Now can you guys just go bareknuckles and get it over with?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 28, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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Thanks Ruppell...it is called a pissing match by two type A's. I might have dropped a grade to A- since my surgery. :-)
Also I'm bored as hell stuck in the house as my wife is away (in SF to visit our son and his new baby) and I'm taking care of her mom who is 91 and lives with us. If you want to know what sac is try being a care giver. Holy sh#t my wife is a saint.
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 28, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
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No worries Bob.
Bolt it, Trad it, Apline it. Just be honest about it. I've never climbed harder than 11R in the Gunks. I've never climbed harder than 11R in Cali. I've never fallen on those. I never want to see bolts OR pins added to them. I also fall all the time on 11 sport routes. To each there own I guess might have been a better title for this thread.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 28, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
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mt10910
climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
"unlike rock climbing
when the climbing gets steep
during the technical snow hike
the belayer actually has their hand
on the rope not the camera
or their sacvag"
Like this?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 28, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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MT 10910 wrote: sweaty hand problem?
I'm Italian, hot blood runs through these veins. :-)
On a more serious note...John...you should be proud of what you done, you don't have to demean others for what they have done. You started this pissing match with your name calling really not knowing anything about me, only what you heard. If that is how you judge people then that says more about you than any bad ass alpine FA.
Drljefe...here is When the Whip Comes Down pre bolts...really cool bouldering (B1) to the first protection, Small Rp's and then the crux.
I remember this climb very well as I ran the Imogene Pass Run the day before and my legs were fried.
[url=http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bobdant/media/bob-2.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/bobdant/bob-2.jpg[/img][/url]
Ruppell...5.11r in the Gunks is fecking hard...good job...when did you climb there?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Sep 28, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
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Kelly and MT, why aren't you leaving cairns for folks to follow?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 28, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
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This is so awesome. I know it's awesome cuz even the mighty Internet warrior hedge chose not to retort.
Sep 28, 2013 - 11:01am PT
Joe,
I think I met you back in 78, and your lack of mechanical/cerebral skills were apparent back-then. I was a Nordic big, white, tall-guy with blond hair. Not a tall olive skin guy with a large mullet.
Didn't you go on to an illustrious career as an Ahwanee dish washer?
But, fur fuk sake dude, are you just dumb or stupid? Same word, humor...JOE?
NASCAR =climbing, Bicycles in NYC =climbing.
What is your freaking point, aye....
I would suggest that the good folks on this forum are laughing at you, not with you.
Word on the street back then is you were a bit of a chicken on lead, so no wonder, JT and run outs do not appeal to you.
You are making the same (the very same point) over and over and over again to a compulsive crescendo of compulsive neurosis.
We get your genius point, aye... that a few climbs remain as mental test pieces, and an example of the skill and mind set of the day. And adding bolts to some maybe a good idea, to bring the sacless masses, to the joy of sac-less-ness, got it, got it, got it Homeo Joe....
Bolting fluffy pants Bob has author many a safe climb for you to entertain your sac less ness on. My muffin I bought at the Yaletown, Starbucks (that's the old warehouse district in Vancouver) for you Americans (fuk ya, save the mother fuking day ya) is turning in my stomach from those purple tights; thanks Bob.....
Joe,
Make a joke, a clever stab, a relevant metaphor, or fuk sak anything but another pasted question to your sanity, answer in a moronic delusional way.
The SeeR
Edit, wish I was in JT or really was Cosgrove, because this light rain crap, is depressing me worse than Bob's pants.
Especially this part:
I would suggest that the good folks on this forum are laughing at you, not with you.
This thread keeps on giving, so good!
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 28, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
Sep 28, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
"Kelly and MT, why aren't you leaving cairns for folks to follow"?
Don't get Hedge started again.
Ryan D here's my favorite part. It's from an article titled "Is Joe Hedge a Horses Ass".
Apparently this isn't his first time.
In the 1960s through 1980s, climbing next found its center in Yosemite, where legends created climbs and vice-versa. Faced with such a concentration of notable achievements, the ASSes cried foul in a feeble attempt to diminish the greats:
“Bachar soloed New Dimensions,” spoke the truth.
“It’s not as hard when you don’t have to place gear,” spoke the ASS.
“Whatever, dude,” spoke the rest of the climbing community.
“Kauk sent Midnight Lightning,” spoke the truth.
“It’s just a boulder problem,” spoke the ASS.
“Then you do it, dumbass,” spoke the rest of the climbing community.
“Croft soloed Astroman and the Rostrum before lunch,” spoke the truth.
“But he’s not an American,” spoke the ASS.
“Shut the f*#k up!” spoke the rest of the climbing community.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 28, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Bwaaaaaahahahahaha
Retro cairning, LOL.
We need to retro cairn the trail out to tha happy boulders bro?! With all that sand & sunscreen in ur eyes it's hard to find!!
I herd someone chopped the cairns that led to solar slab wtf?!! Sac-less cairn chopping weenies!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 28, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
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Pfffft. I'm going to give Greasy But Groovy a spin for old time's sake. Who's in? Alaska is fluff by comparison. Objective hazards are random, and thus manageable and justifyable. Just gotta stick your neck out. I know, I been there. GBG is an exercise in self-imposed fear. I've never been so scared in my life. I'd much rather be dodging bowling balls launched at me by God than having to pucker up for that f*#ker again. Alpine climbing in Alaska is proud; but if you add up all the people who've done the Cassin you'll wind up with a 1000:1 ratio to GBG. The mind is a far more terrifying place. Really runout hard slab and face is the province of only a very few people. I've done hard alpine and hard face, so spare me your f*#king BS. I wish Steck were here to wade in. There's a big difference between going for it on massively run out slab and shooting craps on a corniced ridge.
My God is this thread still here? I'm going climbing. Yocum Ridge will be formed up in 3 months.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sep 28, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
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BVB...I was saving this one...but use it any way way you want. Funny, I'm the passive one in this photo. Glad you are well.
[url=http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bobdant/media/3b9ed38d.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/bobdant/3b9ed38d.jpg[/img][/url]
Bob, I'm in..always wanted to do that route since I saw a picture of Ron Fawcett on it.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 28, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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BVD the Cassin is a trade route, has been for quite awhile.
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 28, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
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Ruppell...5.11r in the Gunks is fecking hard...good job...when did you climb there?
2002-2004. I cut my teeth there, so to speak. Funny thing about the Gunks. The harder the grade the smaller the gear. You leave the ground on something like Modern Times(8+) with a crap ton of gear. You leave the ground for Kligleilds Follies(11+) with triples to .4. Then there's Yellow Wall(11r). That "r" rating is total BS. Unless you whip on the opening pitch(8) it's all air time. But to keep up with this ever evolving thread those routes should have their nature changed by? Some self serving moron who takes it upon himself to make the cliffs "safe"? What is the idea behind you and some other pretentious as#@&%e with class a- personalities conflicting? I'm gonna sum it up for both of you. LEAVE NO TRACE of who put those bolts in.
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