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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Peter I have to politely & with all do respect disagree. In surfing the ride is the crux. The minute I hit the water I'm climbing, usually for my life. I've been beaten badly and not even made it passed the break. I had several days last winter & this spring that I managed to get out, but was so beat I barely new where I was.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Here's another image that I took from the cliff above Peahi on NYE 20012
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Hell Yeah !
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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clean
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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wstmrnclmr-
the permanence is what is so different.
Yes.
Any wave you get, and especially a good one or a barrel, is the essence of impermanence. A rolling band of energy traveling perhaps thousands of miles, and you were there at the right moment to experience it.
It may be the best wave, or the finest experience of your life or just the day, and when you kick out or reach the beach...it is gone. It remains only in your memory, your heartbeat, or the smile on your face.
This is one reason why surfing is so difficult to learn or get good at.
I always think about how it would be to have to drive up to the boulders just to see if they were there at all.
always there
re:johnjohn (classic stinkeye/cracked smile pic)
I think what we're seeing in guys like him is the same progression we're seeing in climbing with the new genereation.
He grew up with not only modern heavy wave chargers as his mentors and idols but with airs and progressive surfing as the norm. He was learning how to get pitted and bust airs at a very early age. Location, of course had much to do with that, as well as freakish natural talent.
Young climbers these days learn, or at least start climbing on stuff that was pro level not to long ago, with modern hard climbers as their idols.
The whole continuum thing, as well as the history of progression in both pursuits, is something I love thinking about.
Surfing and climbing....the best life.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Greg Noll is the sh#t. Read his Biography a while back, really enjoyed reading it. Have you had a chance to check it out.
Another great book is by Mike Doyle called " Morning Glass"
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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How do you spell RAD in Norwegian?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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^^^Well that just blows the doors off!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
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Climbing and surfing offer up complimentary ways to pass on to the great beyond.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jan 11, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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east side underground
climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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often wondered how many times the "landlord " came by and did'nt collect his rent......
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jan 13, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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often wondered how many times the "landlord " came by and did'nt collect his rent...... Probably more than you we can imagine.
After all, it is his turf.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 13, 2013 - 12:36am PT
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Yup. The man in the grey suit.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 13, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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Charles, where's Tioga?
I have surfed spots out on the peninsula. Sharky.
We may have talked about it here before, but after surfing a few days (really fun days) on 17 mile drive I researched the spots I had scored.
On the scale of sharkyness it rated a 10: bring your own iron cage.
A local had been taken years ago and bite marks in his board and body indicated an 18-20 foot White Shark.
Mature Whites were said to regularly cruise the bay, the bay I happened to have a mindblowing evening session at. Perfectly clear water, backlit green perfection.
The occasional big bulb of bull kelp would surface and hit the underside of my board. That was a bit unnerving, but I tried not to think about sharks, which was easy because the waves were so good.
But waiting out there on the reef, with that crystal clear, dark water, I imagined it, just for a second, the sight of one of those fearsome creatures breaching the surface with all those teeth...
Then another wave would come.
Thankfully, my friend didn't tell me about the attack until after the session.
It's a whole different experience up there, the ocean is alive and wild and beautiful. And scary.
Monterey attack story
http://www.cagenweb.com/montereybbs/viewtopic.php?p=5326&sid=ffcaaac2d9aa212f75ac7ac8cb45c9e2
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