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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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Dec 28, 2012 - 11:30am PT
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San Juanico?
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 28, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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That's a Great shot jefe!
Thanks for posting the Surfline article Chris!
I think that Andrew Louis and Rob Brown covered the event eloquently providing not only dynamic action stills and video but also a very human perspective!
We've been covering this monumental surf expedition on Surfing v. Climbing... Complimentary Pursuits upthread 942,950,952. Thanks to my friend Greg Huglin who was out there those days as well.
Many of that crew will be over here on Maui for the Peahi paddle contest which could be as early as next week so the talk on the beach has it.
We have yet another "Warning" level swell predicted for today and yet another even larger for a few days later.
It's game on for some!
I've decided personally that "High Surf Warning" level is just too big for my comfort window. After three back to back incapacitating injuries last season and similar results over the last decade of surfing and wave sailing the north shore in winter. Advisory is one thing but Warning is a whole different beast!
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Dec 28, 2012 - 07:37pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Light winds and big swells today....paddling is another fun option. RE: the vid shows 6 man can be fun at times but I prefer the oc-1. This morning's paddle was beautiful, great visibility and bath tub like conditions and its a similar peace found in climbing an easy route. A couple weeks ago paddling around Makapuu the swells and wind make it feel more like a challenging route where your senses are tuned in and the outcome is not guaranteed.
Whether on a 55ft sled with the spinacker thrashing, with 5 others paddles in air wootin, on my 1 man with the forward 8 ft submerged, sliding down the face or on my 8'6" leaning into the bottom turn, it's all surfen. As much as I tried to move to Colorado to be in he mountains, there was a point where I realized the incredible outdoor fun that is available in abundance here in the Islands.
Enjoy the vid, not me, team primo getting ready for the Molokai Hoe
Aloha,
Will
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 28, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Second, Third, and Fourth Point.
I have friends that have hector connectored from the top of Third Point all the way through First, which is out of view on the bottom and a long point on its own.
Something like five minutes of surfing one wave.
Just Second Point alone can provide rides over a minute.
Punta Pequena is amazing.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 29, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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Second, Third, and Fourth Point.
I have friends that have hector connectored from the top of Third Point all the way through First, which is out of view on the bottom and a long point on its own.
Something like five minutes of surfing one wave.
Just Second Point alone can provide rides over a minute.
Punta Pequena is amazing.
That's the stuff DREAMS are made of!
I had a great session yesterday evening with an all star line up of really cool folks having a great time together! STOKED!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 29, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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Here's a shot of First Point with Second in the distance on a down day.
look at all that sand! Most years the rock at First is an island at most tides.
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Esparza
Trad climber
Westminster, CA
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Dec 29, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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Cool thread and pics! Have not been on Supertopo in some time! Man, I was climbing a ton prior to the end of 2009. After moving back to Cali, just been surfing... 3 to 4 times per week - more when there is swell. Love it. Need to get back on that rock!
Punta Mango, El Salvador OCtober 2012
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 30, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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Nice!!!
I was just talking to my brother, who lived in Central America forever, that I've wanted to go to El Salvador. All those points look so good.
Care to share more about your travels?
Closer to home
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Dec 30, 2012 - 01:47am PT
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windy day out inL.A.
still good.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 30, 2012 - 02:12am PT
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the right kind of wind! ^^^^
for pyro and frumy
do you guys only surf the Line when you head up there?
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Dec 30, 2012 - 10:21am PT
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Thanks for that link Klimmer. Cool stuff for sure.
I'm digging this thread more and more.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 30, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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Drljefe we sort of split it between Zuma & County Line
I've been to Jalama once, it was great, I got the crap pounded out of me.
I've only been surfing just under two years.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Give Rosebud a pet for me.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 30, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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Well Secos(above) isn't the best if you're not that experienced. It has a very tight and potentially dangerous take off spot. More than a few guys makes it crowded. But there are waves at almost any swell direction and even if it looks flat when you check it, a wave WILL come through and it will be a gem. Probably my favorite wave in malibu.
You might check that Thousand Steps place south of there. Sometimes fun waves. Beginner/outsider friendly and less closeouts than Zuma.
Most of N.LA county is so fickle but when certain spots turn on it can be magic. I've scored some heavy barrels at Thornhill Broom.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 30, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 30, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 30, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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Thanks O for bringing up Billy Hamilton.
Back in the sixties he was practically a god and an ideal personified in surfing, especially after the runaway success film by Freeman/MacGillivray “Free and Easy”. His surfing was particularly graceful and finished. It was remarkable and in its perfection seemed to promise a miracle. He still surfs today of course, but I haven’t seen him. Less known is the story how Laird Hamilton and Billy are connected.
When Laird was just a few years old, he met Billy on a North Shore beach. There is a scene of this, I gather a re-enactment, in the movie, I seem to recall. Laird no longer had a Dad you see. I think it was 1967. Laird’s mom Joann was at home and eventually I gather tiny Laird dragged nineteen year old Billy home to meet Joann, his Mom. The two adults were attracted to each other immediately and soon married; Billy adopted Laird, probably to Laird's everlasting ecstasy. Today Billy is married to a second wife and has a surfing school and a balsawood plantation on Kauai near Hanalei. Hanaleiwatersports.com (perhaps not operating) and Hamiltonsurfboards.com.
Even more interesting is how Laird was born. Joann birthed at University of California San Francisco Medical Center where they used a warm saltwater sphere to suspend her during labor, hoping to ease the pain of childbirth for both the mother and newborn.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Went out to Peahi today more photos later
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