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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2010 - 10:25am PT
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Why off limits?
Thanks for posting Lasti. Stick around.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 24, 2010 - 11:32am PT
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Panama...
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jun 24, 2010 - 11:40am PT
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which california grotto is that? the one down here is rhyolite.
btw, basalt is lava which cools in the open air. granite cools deep. the slower it cools, the bigger the crystals. rhyolite is midway between, usually hardening in the throat of the volcano or a similar situation. two-bit geology here, let a real expert weigh in. and yea, the devil's tower isn't basalt--would like to hear a treatise on that.
kathi, jaybro has it right, accent on second syllable. is that what you meant?
this thread needs a pic of the glacial polish on top of the devil's postpile, looks like a tile floor up there.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 24, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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Bob D- those pics are cool. The sides of basalt are interesting to climb for sure.
I haven't done much, but when I was in college I used boulder at the Putah Creek Boulders outside Winters, CA. The columns are tipped on their sides, so you climb the hexagonal ends of the columns and their sides.
Pretty tricky stuff.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jun 24, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
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Bah-salt-bump....
Thor
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Jun 24, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
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A few from my southern Idaho days:
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jun 24, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
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columnar basalt exists pretty close to, if not alongside, batholithic granite up and down owens valley/east sierra. shouldn't the geology police have sorted that out a few millions years ago?
superheated water melts rocks? wow--way past 100 degrees C. tell me more. always thought the sierra batholith was fused subsumed ocean crust.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 24, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
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Rhymes with assault.
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Jun 25, 2010 - 01:15am PT
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Since Todd mentioned it here is another part of the story behind red MM's.
Todd sez: "Red M & M's is a gear lead that was rap bolted...the bolts were removed...and now it is back to being a gear lead.... "
Fulton sez:
"This route was originally put up by Max Dufford. (on pre placed pro) I'd done it on TR and on lead and agreed it was firmly a 12. I told him he should've bolted it and he agreed but didn't think it was worth the effort. I told him I'd bolt it he didn't have a problem with that and he didn't. I then went out there, equipped with a power drill and a bag of bolts to do the dirty. I TR'd it to make sure where the best possible place would be to sink as it turned out the nine bolts then preceded to go to work. Unfortunately it was a borrowed drill and it quit after 1 and 1/2 holes. I couldn't leave it like that so I finished it off by hand. That's right, I hand drilled 7 1/2, 3 inch deep holes and it took a little more than 6 hours standing in aiders the whole time. Man that basalt is hard stuff. My friends there thought I was nuts but I told Max I'd do it and I did. Oddly enough the pro I placed to steady myself had a regular bad habit of ripping out reaffirming my belief that this was a case were maybe bolts were needed. Some guys from Wennachee came by as I was finishing up and seeing as I was too tired to lead it they did and had big smiles on their faces afterwards. Unfortunately it later got chopped by someone who never climbed the route but felt if he did he didn't want to be tempted by the bolts. Considering all that's been bolted out there I was a bit perplexed as to why someone gave a crap about this route but as with anything, when you put something out there you make yourself open for criticism. Nowadays I hear of people leading the route by again pre-placing all the pro needed which I'll bet is more than 9 clips. Oddly enough, I was part of the first climbers out there when I put up routes with the crew on the Middle Eastern and Sunshine walls. Ah those where the days, virgin cracks, no crowds and lotsa guns."
All that sounds about right. I introduced Karl B, Max, Koopsen and Fulton to Vantage. Fulton did many new lines at Vantage he was never credited for in the mid '80s. Lots of dumbshit stuff done at Vantage. Chopping Red MM's bolts was one of them imo. Max and Yoder can argue about who actually freed it between '86 and '96. But my money would be on Max.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 25, 2010 - 01:44am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 25, 2010 - 02:17am PT
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jun 25, 2010 - 02:25am PT
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hmm.... this to me:
from vlani's post looks like Owen's River Gorge.
I've heard it called basalt on a number of occasions due to the columnar jointing.
But it's not basalt - not even close.
As we all know the Bishop Tuff erupted from the Long Valley Caldera collapse around 768K YPB. It's an air fall ash - a tephra. It's almost all Silica. Basalt is relatively low in silica - lots of Fe and Mg which makes it darker.
Of course I could be wrong on where the picture is from and thus the rest of my post is just me being a geologic as#@&%e ;-)
Interesting note about the Bishop Tuff. It's the oldest known rock that is paleomagnetically normal - so the Bruhnes-Matuyama paleo mag reversal happened the day before the eruption. The ash in the Sherwin Creek till helps date that glacial event.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jun 25, 2010 - 09:25am PT
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I thought that pic looked like Owens River too Nature. could be a similar feature elsewhere I suppose. Thanks for the geologic factoids. DMT has a good post a page or so back too as well.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 25, 2010 - 10:09am PT
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Paleomagnetically normal? Como?
Also - that does look like the gorge. I've never climbed at that area. That should change.
There's more of that columned tuff out there on the table lands. I climbed a place with a few climbs up to 60 feet where you can belay out of your car.
It's good for an evening for sure.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jun 25, 2010 - 11:43am PT
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thanks for sorting it out, dingus. trying to dig out my rock book here, but it'll probably take all weekend. will try to find a devil's postpile glacier polish pic too--thought it might be that one by munge up there, but as i recall it was even flatter.
was looking at houses around sonora a few weeks ago. anything to get closer to what life should be about.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jun 25, 2010 - 11:47am PT
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tom - do you understand what I meant by the Bruhnes-Matuyama event (the last time the magnetic polarity of the earth switched)?
Either way....
up until about 780K YBP if you had a compass the "north" needle would point towards the south pole. So you can take a rock that has gone partially or totally into melt mode (then crystalized) and look at the orientation of the iron molecules. They will point towards the magnetic "north" of the planet (which would be south when the polarity is reversed). Assuming the rock hasn't been rotated, moved, etc. since emplacement/deposition, and assuming you can determine a date of said rock (not difficult) you can then talk about the polarity of the earth at the time those rocks solidified.
The Bishop Tuff is very well studied ash deposit. With all the volcanics, tectonics, and glacial events in and around the Eastern Sierra this ash is incredibly helpful in using relative dating techniques.
See Bierman, Gillespie, Burke (and many many more) if the Quaternary Stratigraphy of the Eastern Sierra interests you.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 25, 2010 - 11:56am PT
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Custer found a good one right before he died.These are probably basaltic as well.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jun 25, 2010 - 11:58am PT
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DMT - mono/Inyo is more rhyo-dacite eruption, no? (I'd have to check my notes).
I don't let this one bug me but everyone calls the intrusive rocks in the Sierra granite. The correct general term would be granitic. Only about 10% of the rocks in the Sierra classify out as Granite - the other 90% generally coming in as Granodiorite (and don't make me pull out my ternary diagram to show the distinct difference ;-)
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Jun 25, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
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Speaking of oceanic crust and its source in the earth's mantle, here are some pictures of REALLY young basalts...
When lava is flowing, sometimes it crusts over on top, and when the source of lava is blocked "upstream," lava tubes form. These may be exposed by collapse or for other reasons.
Sometimes the Hawaiians used lava tubes for refuges in times of war, stocking them with food. Sometimes they used them for their petroglyphs as well.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 25, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
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Way cool.
Thanks for the further explanation Nature. It's time to get reading.
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