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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Note to "Blail", if ya summit proudly enough, folks will advise others to "be more like Blail".
Wouldn't that be ironic. And Cool!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Perhaps Blail is just an example of someone who, in spite of seemingly overwhelming odds, is just too stupid to give up? [this approach has worked for me]
I can hear it now on the bridge: "I wanna be like Blail! If Blail can do it, so can I!"
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Pete, What about the aquarian, is that also a better route than the dihedral? NNL does look good in the topo, but also looks a notch harder. Is the dihedral compromised by its leaning nature mainly - why is it so poorly regarded?
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Blakeb
Gym climber
Arafel
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I hope im not stupid. I just really like this rock. Hopefully more people will be like me and not give up even if they bail a few times first, but i dont predict cheering of wanting to be like blail, like people once sang they wanted to be like mike
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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David, I actually haven't done Aquarian yet, amazingly enough. You could ask Holly, she's done it. I know she talked about Kahuna Kahuna Ledge as being quite the stylin' bivi. I also believe she said it was kinda wet and dirty [hence the name, eh?]
NNL isn't that hard, probably not any harder than Dihedral. What's wrong with Dihedral? Hmmmm. Just kinda not-nice corners, 3/8" free-climbing pussy bolts all over the place, a few ugly pitches. The legit finish, which everyone who climbs the route really ought to do [otherwise they didn't really climb the route] is pretty yucky.
Don't climb a route just because you think it's easy - climb a route because you think it's good, and want to climb it. Don't let me or anyone else talk you out of Dihedral if that's where your passion lies. Passion is worth more than anything towards your success, and don't ever believe otherwise.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Bump,Beer on a wall, who would go up empty handed?
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Don't forget Neptune's Revenge.....On the Aquarian.
Yuck city.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Cool thread! Is Sea of Dreams really that hard to fit in with some of those others? Never done it so talking out my ass!
I think of hard as bad falls and at times you think you are doing it wrong but have no choice. Those are the parts I remember and will never forget. I suck though so these parts are probably easy and I just mess it up. Good times for sure to be had up there... I miss it!!!
I also agree with Pete that the bigger peckers changed lots of pitches that used to have shifting knifeblades. Those peckers seem like they could hold a truck where a shitty blade was! Pete, Im so out of shape the shirt is retired... jk... sorta
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Hey Pete - You have me looking at NNL seriously now. We're in the valley at the end of next week. If possible, send me your super beta on the NNL. My best email is david@wadesign.com. Thanks!
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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A good update/expansion to my favorite part of the ST big wall guides.
And with regards to what Melissa was saying, my favorite phrase from the wall guide is on the Nose page: "At 5.9 C1 this route is technically easy but don't be fooled. The Nose, like all El Cap routes, is huge, exposed and terrifying."
(Was that the real bringmedeath????)
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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YO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Where the HELL did you go??
Hey, mon.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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That was the Real Jake. He spoke of the Jake Shirt. However, Jake doesn't "get it" - Dude, it's BECAUSE you're out of shape, that you're ready for El Cap. Look at me....
{Pete stands up, walks to the mirror, pulls a few Dr. Piton SuperHero Poses ... my goodness, where are his biceps? that's not a six-pack, it's a keg, sheesh .... smiles at himself, cleans out some parsley from between his teeth, sits back down}
Now go get your shirt, and go climb El Cap.
David - check your email, eh?
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
T100
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Great thread. Yes, we all love this rock! How do our egos feel after all the lists and quantification? ha!
It's wonderful to hear Ammon's perspective - I guess those Klaus routes are worthy of their terrifying names! I'll be sure to avoid them.
Pete mentioned headspace and the large degree to which that affects apparent difficulty - i agree completely.
Thank god the ratings are so subjective - at some point perhaps we could do without them (though our egos would NOT be happy). For these aid routes i think a list of apparent difficulty by those that have actually climbed them is incalculably valuable for determining difficulty.
my list for the routes i've climmbed alone (to keep the apparent difficulty on a level field) would be:
zodiac
virginia
mescalito
southseas-po
tribal
zm
sea of dreams (only climbed the first half, which says a lot).
wooooooP!!! see you in june.
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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Yeah I'm down with the legend of Jake. Wears Abercrombie and gloves that've seen 4,500 pitches. Just last I heard he drowned fishing hehe.
Cap'n Kirk, did you email me? (where did I go, hahah)
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