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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 23, 2010 - 10:50am PT
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Stephane- Have you ever seen an older version of the Jumar device or a prototype? It would be nice to say with certainty that the model that I posted are the "original" Jumars.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Aug 23, 2010 - 11:06am PT
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No Steve, I have never seen any prototype or older version of the Jumar devices than the ones shown here, but I am far from being the "Old Testament". I think that you can say that they are the first model to be marketed.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 23, 2010 - 11:20am PT
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Thanks Stephane.
Did you ever meet the two Swiss designers of the Jumar?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Aug 23, 2010 - 11:33am PT
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No Steve, I have never met Adolf Jüsy and Walter Marty
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Aug 23, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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I gave my grey pair to a friend because they are actually smaller than the yellow ones and she likes the way they fit her little hands. They are rigged in the same way as Clint's. I made it clear to her exactly how old they are.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 23, 2010 - 09:50pm PT
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I sold my pair of pristine Yellow Jumars bought in the 70s to Juan earlier this year... for $30 and shipping...
...don't know what he was thinking to do with them. He seemed to have a plan, I wish that plan had been stronger than his choice to call it quits...
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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Aug 23, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
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i actually witnessed the front of the clamp fall off of a grey jumar in use, high on the west main wall. The other one held. Just sayin.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 23, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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1969-ish. These went up the Salathe solo and a whole lot of other routes:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 24, 2010 - 12:48am PT
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I use the most recent yellow version and have no complaint. The reach that the below-cam safety allows is crucial IMO.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 24, 2010 - 01:22am PT
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In the blue circle is where the spring that holds the safety lever up.
It can break due to fatigue and has broken which can cause detachment from the rope. Failed on Dale Bards jumars on an ascent of El Cap we did once.
He almost took the ride to the end of the rope.
In the red circles one can see the differences between the gray and yellow.
The slant on the gray is what makes them come off/on the rope much faster and efficient than the yellow. The draw back is safety so one must be more diligent with keeping an eye out when doing traverses.
The yellow suck big time for efficiency. The safety lever is inefficient too.
Blah blah blah ......
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Aug 24, 2010 - 01:46am PT
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RJ - What the f*#k is that rotten tat on those bad boys?
Hudon - You have all the other kind gear . . . get some quality jugs!
The Kid is right, the Black Diamond rigs are the sh#t.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 24, 2010 - 01:48am PT
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Werner, they're all better than prussiks.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Aug 24, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
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With old jumars, is there any concern with the steel/aluminum corrosion where the two metals come into contact?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 27, 2010 - 11:08am PT
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There is always concern...but I haven't heard of a problem at the axle.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 27, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
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With old jumars, is there any concern with the steel/aluminum corrosion where the two metals come into contact? Short answer: Maybe, depends on usage and storage conditions.
See my post #77 and guido's earlier pics of his jumars that've seen significant salt air exposure.
Werner
You Da Man with that comparison photo. Also note that each version has thicker metal around the top loop than the previous. Also each version has a different cam design. Evolution at work. Sometimes a very old design which sees continuous improvement is better than the new-fangled stuff. Even a revolutionary / evolutionary design can become obsolete.
Mine are about 1976 vintage and are the middle style. New BDs or Petzls are on my (long) shopping list.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 27, 2010 - 11:06am PT
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kinnikinik- Are you saying that you witnessed the entire casting fail at the pinch point of the cam? Any chance that you could take a photo, if you still have the bits?
Did those Jumars take any big impacts from falling, etc? Or were they well worn?
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Mark Not-circlehead
Boulder climber
Martinez, CA
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Sep 27, 2010 - 04:56pm PT
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My wife wants a new pair of jugs.....
Hers are over 40 years old, starting to show some tension cracks, and are getting a little loose.....
Oh....wrong forum.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 27, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
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Stick around there's a vertical device for you...
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Sep 28, 2010 - 12:55am PT
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Woohoo, Gary Storrick's site is back! I love that site!
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