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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Aug 31, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
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Cool thread.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Aug 31, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
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I've spent several nights in hammocks - fun times, made even more so without spreader bars, or at least one ledge to hang the thing over.
One of my memories though is when John Barbella, Karl McConachie and I did Zodiac in '79 with a curry cot. It had recently been acquired and was still tied with cotton rope. We'd sit on it at night to eat and medicate, and every so often one of the cotton cords would abrade and break and whoever was sitting over it would drop a few inches. By the end of the trip it was pretty colorful with all of our tie-offs being used to fix the ledge. Those things were also fun to haul when windy - a gust would catch it like a sail and slam it into the wall, spin the pigs, and create a general cluster.
In '85 Barbella and I used an early Gramicci ledge on Bhagirathi III in the Himalaya. We had horrendous weather and didn't get too far on the route, but we did spend several nights in that ledge on the route - those early ledges were way less bomber in those conditions compared to the stuff we've got today.
Paul
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Andy KP
climber
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Spent a lot of nights without a ledge or hammok - but this night was a keeper (I slept on a belay seat and Matt got the hammock). Photo taken on a one day ascent of the Trip that ran into 3.
Best compromise I came up with for alpine walls is the sitting ledge (you can squeeze two people onto this!:
String hammocks have been used a lot in the alps, and work well on less steep ground (used like a seat).
andy
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
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Andy- Nice park bench! Really needs a empty gallon jug hanging below and a newsprint cocoon to complete the scene!
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TRo
climber
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Great Post; some additional questions and pictures required for verification.
First sex in portaledge...(Largos story comes to mind)
Anybody been in a Whillans Box?
Anyone tried to use one in Yosemite? (I could see Bridwell's tent transformed into a wall disco).
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there steve, say, not sure if i had gotten a chance to see this before... saw it was 2009....
this is really a neat thread.... lots to see, learn, and think on, too...
thanks for the neat share...
:)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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I bet Donini has been in a Whillans.
Box on El Cap? Hey, it's California and those suckers weren't light! LOL
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Jon the Fat
Mountain climber
Jackson, WY
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Not the first by far, but here is my homemade portaledge on Moonlight Buttress. I wanted to give the lawn chair method a try sometime around Thanksgiving 2006. It worked wonders until I ratcheted the feet up too high and had to close the entire chair before opening it again. It was a pain but not a big problem.
Additionally, when I was "testing" it one night at home, I pulled my knees up to my chest to stretch my legs and in doing so I flipped the entire chair and cannonballed out from the top of it. Luckily (since I was high up in a tree) I was roped in and had no problems. I thought I had pissed myself, however it was just dew from the night. Good times.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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My bro Henry Means modified a lawn chair wtih folding arms that held the chair off the wall so your legs could fit comfortably in the chair facing the wall. Super nice belay seat , very light and easy to haul with the bag in winds. Nice to have back support while belaying.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
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The big funk close to the road!
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BooDawg
Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
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BASE104 (3/9/09): “True suffering is spending the night in your harness or a butt bag.”
Don Lauria’s great posting on April 13, 2009 of this thread does show a few cobwebs clinging to the overhangs of his cranium:
He and I were attempting to do the Tower in a single day, so we were carrying no hammocks when we were benighted at the top of the 7th pitch; consequently, we spent that night sitting in our Robbin’s belay seats, a sleepless, thirsty night for me at least.
His recollections about our climb of the Nose are about right except he forgot that I actually set up my Robbins hammock at Camp 4 and spent the night in it there, a not-very-comfortable bivie, considering the cold and rain and the inevitable cramped, abrasive contact with the rock there…
In April, ’69, Russ McLean and I made an unsuccessful attempt on the Dihedral Wall. Our retreat was precipitated by my Robbins hammock during our bivie at the top of the 7th pitch. Once in the hammock, it began to slowly tear down its long axis, despite its construction of “ripstop” nylon. Each time I’d move just a little bit, the hammock would tear just a little bit more, leaving me with even less support and forcing me to curl up into an even smaller ball. This, of course, meant that I’d put more weight on the remaining hammock, so the tearing continued all through the sleepless night.
When I was in Bishop last week, I stopped at the Warren Harding Museum, and Roger Derryberry and Mary Lou Long have a BatTent displayed there.
More about the Harding Museum in an upcoming thread that I am preparing…
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
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Does it have regular hours?
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BooDawg
Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
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Sep 10, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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No regular hours. Roger and M.L. commute to Bishop from S. CA on some weekends. Guido and I found them there by chance on our recent visit. More later...
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Sep 12, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
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One of Warren Harding's great talents is that he didn't need this kind of comfort. Al MacDonald told me that on the FA of the Leaning Tower, he was belaying Glen Denny. He looked over at Warren, who was standing in his slings, tied in with a waist loop, and fast asleep.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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Lots of early ripstop hammocks suffered from ripgo under real conditions. Nice to have the fabric stretch but not the catastrophic failures!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 12, 2010 - 04:53pm PT
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More about the Harding Museum in an upcoming thread that I am preparing…
Does it have regular hours? You mean like a bar or something?
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 12, 2010 - 06:20pm PT
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Close, Anders! It's more like live music is a high priority. I'd guess BYOB would certainly follow! Roger and Mary Lou are "disappointed" in the interest that climbers in the area have taken/not taken in their efforts to preserve Harding's legacy. More later.
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D.Eubanks
climber
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Feb 28, 2011 - 06:22am PT
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It was like sleeping at home. You would have sweet dreams all night, and then wake up. At this point you would kinda blink your eyes, look down then look up, realizing where you are, and go " awwww sh#t ".
Uh huhh, could'nt been said any better BASE104.
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