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Chris2
Trad climber
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Which a 10g, an 11.a or an 11.d?
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Heffey
Trad climber
Nashville, TN
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So now it's 10"."g? Man, you and your decimals.
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Chris2
Trad climber
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"G" decimals? G is a letter not a number.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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"""I've only climbed WOTWS once, and that was in the middle of the night."""
Lisa? lol I lead a couple up WOTWS one pitch black night back in 1999 on a bet. Had to go from parked car to route, up and down route, and make it to Sizzler... all in 1.5 hours. Won that bet... but was cuzz'n myself all the way up and down. lol
As for the poster asking about a friend being able to lead the route. I have lead it many times. The only thing I remember being anything but an easy slab was the bit beneath the first belay hole. And, it was only a little more work because of the weight of the rope at that point. Which I always thought could be avoided by belaying from the dike/ledge below it. Then you would be going up the "crux" without any rope weight.
But, the for the 5.8 leader you just grin and bear it to the hole. Then you can link the last two pitches and rap out of there in no time. :)
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 26, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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?!!!111
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KyleO
Ice climber
Calgary, AB
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Mar 26, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
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Regarding the question if anyone has ever whipped of WOTWS.
It was my last day in JTree and I had dislocated my pappa toe the night before 'bum sliding' down steep slab. I got to the last bolt before the first anchor and went left instead of right (everyone I saw that day went right). I remember wiping the sand from my shoes onto my pants and thinking sh#t this might be the wrong way, then looking down on very low angled slab a significant distance to the bolt. Well that gave me a burst of motivation and I pulled through fine. Probably would have sucked.
I found the grades a bit sandbagged in JTree, but not by much. I climb mostly at Squamish which is much more polished. This just means you can climb steeper routes (in Joshua Tree) compared to polished areas (Yos or Squamish) at the same grade.
Whatever the case the climbing in JTree is very classy
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Mar 26, 2009 - 07:35pm PT
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It's very simple, really. Different rock characteristics tend to yield different types of climbs. When it turned out that JT was no longer going to yield a ton of cutting-edge routes in terms of sheer difficulty, the locals made damn sure that JT at least had the hardest 5.11 climbs in the world.
Curt
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 26, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
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Hardest 5.11 climbs in the World- hmmmmm?
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Mar 26, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
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I was kidding (sort of) anyway.
Curt
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