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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jun 21, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
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Ammon! What's up bro!
Pete didn't use your rope, Ammon. Not sure where you'd have gotten that idea/info. Now, while I wasn't up there yesterday, I know he had his own rope fixed, so there'd have been no point! I (Randy) almost gave you a call though Ammon to ask your permission to use your rope for some photos. =) By that time, however, Tom had gotten up the rest of the first pitch and a rope was hung. If you ask around, I was pretty emphatic about anyone reaching you and asking before your rope was touched, if it were to be. Just tryin' to be respectful, dude. Everyone seemed to concur.
While Pete may deserve a little ribbing, due to said announcement, it will be interesting to see anyone repeat this route. Whoever repeats WoS has BoS (Balls of Steel) (TM).... I'll let Pete tell his own story and answer those questions.
Incidentally, Ammon, the pitches you fixed were not the correct start to WoS, and directly from Mark and Richard, as well as my own eyes, the false start is infinitely easier than the proper start. It comes in above, and passes up, the crux of the route. The proper start, shown in the topo as well, is way rad! Long hook runnout on dime-sized edges. If you get something the thickness of a nickle you feel like life is great! So, those 50ft whippers you took will probably be more frequent.
Being there, watching, feeling the hook placements, etc... Well, it gives me a whole new perspective on this route and, well, maybe some folks as well. Mark and Richard, first off, are stand-up guys. I think they've gotten a LOT of un-due, uncalled for sh#t over the years! The route is definitely legit. Hell, you can see that from the bottom. The first two pitches are the crux and they are definitely not rivet ladders and the hooking is definitely harder than anything I've ever seen. It would seem that maybe some jealousy over not being able to repeat the route might have something to do with the "controversy".
I have my own theories about where it stands in comparison to other hard routes on El Cap, but I'll keep that to myself, as I am by no means any hardman. Hopefully others with a lot more experience on hard routes on The Captain will step up and vouch, from their own experience, for the route... In public, as they have in private. Again, anyone thinking they have what it takes, step on up and prove it. I'd only ask that you be honest about what you find...
Cheers!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Jun 21, 2006 - 02:57pm PT
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Thanks Randy. Well, that is just what I heard from someone with a high powered scope who saw, what looked like, Pete using my rope. I would not have cared if you used it to take photos but didn't want Pete to use it to get to my high point.
Yes, I know the pitches I took is a variation of WOS, it looked like a more featured way and that's why I climbed it first. I plan on climbing the other variation as well.
What I've seen so far is a pretty impressive route up a blank face. No enhanced edges/hooks and or placements (other than rivets).
I rapped really close to the original start and thought it looked about the same difficulty as the variation, maybe a tad harder.
Cheers!!!
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Jun 21, 2006 - 02:59pm PT
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Pete,
is it true? I am not dispointed in ya, anyone even trying for new adventure should be congratulated me thinks. However, I was going to send you beer prematurely! Thanks for the update nefarious and good on ya for trying. I will just have to be your beer sponsor at a time when I can be there in person. It would be good to hear more of a report on the attempts.
Gary
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jun 21, 2006 - 03:12pm PT
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Ammon,
I definitely agree with you, and stated this while I was present. At that point no one had done anything, and I mentioned that I may give you a call to ask you if I could use your rope for some photos. I was told, "I don't think Ammon would mind..." My response was that it would be the correct thing to do (ask for permission)and that I wouldn't want anyone f&*%ing with my ropes without asking. So, did my best. =)
I didn't look too much at the variation you were on, Ammon. I spent a lot of time looking at the other side, however. I contemplated, briefly, making an attempt on, at least, the first pitch. I quickly came back to reality. I like my skin and the route is just way beyond me. There were some definite areas of free on the route that will go, but the hooking is just insane! Major props to Mark and Richard!
I'd also concur with Ammon that nothing appeared to be enhanced. I think Ammon has a good chance at doing the route. I think most will get shut down trying. It's just on a different level in some areas.
Ammon -- Send my best to Thomas, OK? Guess he won't be racing Shakespeare through the meadows any time soon again, huh? Good times. I may stop by this weekend to say "Hey" to them... Cheers, bro!
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Ben Rumsen
Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
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Jun 21, 2006 - 03:54pm PT
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" I will post photos. Alex and Thomas told me last night they weren't sure if it was Tommy who placed the dozens of extra bolts on Dihedral Wall. Could it have been Todd? I don't know who it was, do you? But they need to come out. When you see they photos you'll agree. It's pretty bad, mate. A once-proud aid line all drilled to hell and turned to a sport climbing clipup. " -
This is really a shame. Dihedral Wall was my first El Cap route, which I climbed in 1981. Very few people will ever be able to free this climb compared to the number that could experience climbing it like the first ascent party did. Some people seem Hell bent on doing whatever they want with no regard for traditon or history. Not only do I not look to Todd Skinner as a climbing hero, I believe he taints everything he touchs by doing things like this.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jun 21, 2006 - 04:13pm PT
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PTPP: "I will post photos."
Where *are* the photos, man?!
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
hither and yon
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Jun 21, 2006 - 04:15pm PT
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KB wrote:
"Is it true the King Swing no longer has a second penji point? "
It was gone when I did that thing in '98. I could see the scar where it ripped. I tried fiddling a manky offset in and blew it - went for a bit of a tumble.
Was a new one established after that?
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