Returning to the fold, dude.

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JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber

Stoney Point

Jun 14, 2006 - 08:30pm PT

You girls are not fat.

Juan

bob d'antonio

Trad climber

boulder, co

Jun 14, 2006 - 08:56pm PT

Mac wrote: I believe I have the skills to climb 5.10 anything. I just . . . can't/won't. But I want to get there.

The biggest skill you have for climbing is your mind.

If you can't/won't do it...then you can't climb 5.10 anything.

Maybe it's time to do something else for a while??

James wrote: Are you wearing a modest mouse shirt in that picture?

"The good times are killing me"

maculated

Trad climber

San Luis Obispo, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2006 - 10:25pm PT

Bob, you're such a cool old dude. That's a Modest Mouse shirt indeed.

No, I like climbing. i think I need to do what you say, Bob. Log miles on lower grades until I'm inspired to climb harder. Hard to do when your financial straights don't let you get away much. ::shrug::

Hey, I never said *I* thought I was fat. Though, i just took a photo last week where you can't see my boobs and I am now blaming them for making me look huge. Anyone want to pony up for a breast reduction? I'll give you the extra!

That's an 11 am beer on the ferry to the Giants game courtesy of my father. I was an alcoholic!

bob d'antonio

Trad climber

boulder, co

Jun 14, 2006 - 10:40pm PT

Mac wrote: Bob, you're such a cool old dude. That's a Modest Mouse shirt indeed.

No, I like climbing. i think I need to do what you say, Bob. Log miles on lower grades until I'm inspired to climb harder. Hard to do when your financial straights don't let you get away much. ::shrug::

Modest Mouse rocks...one of my favorite bands.

"One Chance to get it Right".

As to the money thing...get a sugar-daddy.A lot of the older guys on this site make some cash. LOL

Hope all is well, later, Bob

Loomis

climber

Praha, Ceska Republika

Jun 14, 2006 - 10:58pm PT

Good sex takes the rough edge off leaders fright...

arnoilgner

climber

la vergne, TN

Jun 15, 2006 - 12:50pm PT

Hey tradman

Your comment: It is pretty safe to say that the 5.14 climber can pitch off of Wiamaia all day long and hit nothing but air while a slip for the 5.8 climber on the fickle finger of fate would likly be catostrophic if not fatal:)

agreed...I think that many times we are just talking past each other but really agree more than we think we do. Words are limiting...
arno

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Jun 17, 2006 - 09:18pm PT

The hard part INMOP is to be able to switch from NO fall mode to it's ok just go for it mode. Since i climb a lot of ice and a lot of moderate trad I am usualy in NO Fall mode but when I go to rumny and get on steeper climbs I can tell myself that on this climb, right now it is ok to fall. obviously this lifts a big load off of whole climbing experience. I still am a lot more chicken than I should be as i don't get that kind of practice as much as i should. On the other hand I just spent three days at cathedral ledge NH and out of all the cruxes that we climbed it was probobly 50/50 ankle breaker vs sweet soft catch. Its a lot harder for me to switch modes in that kind of climbing. the last pitch of the day I led seventh seal and then followed loose lips. Both trad 10a linkups. As i got near the top of the loose lips pitch on 2nd I noticed that the skinny ropes had slipped behind the razor sharp flake and that a fall lower down on the crux section may have been a disaster, may have just been a core shot on one or both ropes or may have been no big deal? We won't know the answer to that question cause I had a good case of NO fall going on in my head:)

Tahoe climber

Trad climber

Austin, TX to South LakeTahoe, CA

Jun 19, 2006 - 02:49pm PT

Arno:

I read the Rock Warrior's Way a while back and really enjoyed it. It put my head in a good place, and I'll use it as a reference if I get shaky on lead.

Thanks for writing it.

-Aaron

ps: I just let a friend borrow it - he's been wigging on easy easy climbs while on lead. On TR he's fine.

pss: Maculated: we need an update - are you back in there now.

maculated

Trad climber

San Luis Obispo, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2006 - 06:56pm PT

Uhhh, update. Trapeze Artemis came up this weekend and we hit the local crag. There's on easy trad lead there but I eschew it as I generally free solo it these days (5.6).

Got on a route I have had wired for years (10b) on TR and found that I do my little panic thing primarily because I know what's coming next. It's weird. I stick the rail and I know I have to do the other rail and I just get all freaky. So I just decided to fall on the rope a bunch to get through it. I think it's the injuries that made me do this. I tried to get on a route I didn't have wired at all (10b) and no panicky attack, but the shoulder doth protest on it and I wasn't willing to do the next move and dropped off (no feet on one particular move, just shoulders) so I am pretty sure what's going on is self-preservation motivated.

I TR'd up that route I mentioned with no problems.

I think I just have to stay at lower rated climbs until I'm sure I'm not going to do anything to myself if I do harder moves, even if I know I'm capable of it. I have already abstained from 5.11 anything for the last couple years, but I might have to drop lower than that. I think that's the source of the problem.

Kinda sad. I really like climbing. I haven't been to that crag in a year or so and met some people I'd only heard about and saw some others I've not seen in that long. It was a good time either way. I know Art liked it. :)

I went road riding today and did that route I crashed on. I think it's the same deal. I got down there and rode the brakes through the bad spot but then got going a good 30 mph on the way home, so it's the head game that's got me.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Jun 20, 2006 - 09:05am PT

shoulders suck! I have no insurance so i am just rideing out the injury hopeing it will get stronger. It is getting better but slowly. I find that reachy moves are scary. i can pull pretty hard if my arm is not extended. i was able to lead grade 5 ice and follow 5+ this winter by not reaching with the left tool. with rock its just the miles. I solo a ton of laps on 5.6 and 5.7 rts that i have wired at my local crag. It's like a zen excercise for the shoulder. just smooth even movement.

trapeze artemis

climber

Surf City

Jun 20, 2006 - 04:31pm PT

Kristin
I think you need to log some serious air time.
It became apparent to me that you simply haven't taken enough falls for your body to relax, right now it's still in "protection mode". Although once you're in the air you now seem to relax and not remain stiff like you formerly did.