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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 27, 2006 - 10:07pm PT
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Fell all the way to the end of the rope. Did he sell you his climbing gear?
What's the best way to back up the GriGri solo.
Tie the back up directly into harness or just blights?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 27, 2006 - 10:12pm PT
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The guy on NA was soloing, Jeff. When I solo, I girth hitch a short sewn sling beneath my second donut [my Grigri is on the other] and from this backup sling I hang a dedicated wide-gate autolocker into which I tie a backup knot.
It's super handy when cleaning, too. When you get to the top, you just unclip the knots in order as you stack the rope in the bag. Really reduces clusterfriggage, and eliminates the possibility of the rope blowing in the wind and getting hung up on some flake horizontally from you.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 28, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
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Pete,
The donuts you are referring to are tie in loops I take it. How long a short sling do you use?
What is the specific biner you use for the back up clips.
What would be cool is if you could list exactly what equipment you use, as I would like to duplicate it exactly.
I plan to start doing some solo practice climbs on Taqhuitz to get my speed back.
Thanks
Jeff
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 28, 2006 - 03:49pm PT
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Bump
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 28, 2006 - 04:07pm PT
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The loops I call donuts are your belay loops. Most harnesses come with one. I use two, with one scarfed from an old harness. It builds some redundancy [not that you should ever worry about your belay loop!] but also reduces clusterfriggage.
I use the shortest sewn sling you can buy and girth hitch it round the bottom of one of the belay loops. My Grigri hangs from a locker on the other belay loop. If you don't want to use a sewn sling, you can tie one - just secure the ends of the water knot with duct tape.
I use the widest-gate autolocker I can find as my dedicated backup locker. It has a gold gate, and so I use a gold dedicated sling for it to make it easier by colour coding it.
Everything you never wanted to know is listed here in [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/?id=49"]Dr. Piton's Ultimate Big Wall Checklist![/url]
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Apr 28, 2006 - 04:41pm PT
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"Weird
I've used the gri-gri for my belay device exclusivly since it first came out on the market.
Never had a problem.
What's with you people?"
lol.
Werner, sorry to burst your bubble, and no offense intended, but I was just thinking back to when you and Merry were playing on that route to the left of Meat Grinder... what is it... Crimson Cringe? Red Zinger? something like that... and I politely pointed out to Merry that she had the gri set up backwards.
edited because I'm senile.
Brutus
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coolclimber
Trad climber
toronto,canada
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Apr 29, 2006 - 05:22pm PT
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glad to know u came thru. I am sure what happened was when u pulled intothe bolt, she was also taking in the slack but when u dropped onto the rope she had not yet locked (when a belayer does this they jump up in the air a bit) this creates a dead point with no pressure and your weight did the rest she was holding tight on the break hand in the up direction of taking rope starts to slides she freeezes for a moment enough to realise it is going thru lets the pressure of her hand and the too late u have already got tooo much rope thru. hence no rope burn marks.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 29, 2006 - 10:32pm PT
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Hahaha Thanks for your kind help on that one Brutus.
Without your presence that day I might not be here today.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Apr 30, 2006 - 01:08am PT
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"Hahaha Thanks for your kind help on that one Brutus.
Without your presence that day I might not be here today."
Bull. You both had that thing so dialed you may as well have been soloing. When Merry led it she placed... lemee think... ahh... three pieces of pro on the whole pitch.
Come to think of it, now that my paranoia kicks in (note to self: must check medication dosage levels) you guys were probably just putting one over one me. Shame on you to be skrewing with what was left of my brain.
But I confess for a moment I DID bask in the glow of the thought that you two are actually prone to human foibles like the rest of us slugs.
And coolclimber:
giveitup im sorry but your streamofconsciousness lowercase pillower case mewanderings were trumped ages ago by james joyce and eecummings a stone a leaf an unfound door and all the forgotten faces of the rock walls of the wilderness the lost and forgotten mountains a stone a leaf a door look homeward angel but what exactly is it u are trying to say in you're ramblings yore amblings through the faces of hour past the memories frozen like salt statues as john largo soloing left ski track looks long at taking the long journey the big juan
Brutus, I definitely need to look at those dosages...
edited for the usual reasons: senility and I forget what else.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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HEY Pass the Pitons Pete,
why do you use a short sling to connect your back-up-knot-biner to the belay loop on your harness?
Seems like an extra unescasary link in the chain...why not just go directly to the belay loop with the biner?
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