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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 14, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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Which climbs in Bugs are easy to link up in a day (up to 5.8)?
My friend and I are thinking about going there for 2 weeks.
Some routes we want to do:
Paddle Flake direct/Mactech arete on Crescent Spire
Beckey-Chouinard obviously. Sunshine crack, if we feel real good, big MAYBE. West Ridge on Pigeon spire (maybe on the next day after Beckey Choinard for an easy day), Wiessner's Route, NE ridge and Kain route on Bugaboo Spire (maybe in the same day?). Also possibly Wildflowers and Ears between.
Also thinking of NE Buttress of Slesse and and Gimli if we have time on the way in/out, or if weather is better there...
You guys think some of these routes are must dos, or complete garbage? I do not usually like crowded places, but these routes/ spires look fantastic and I am willing to put up with it : )
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 14, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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Kain route is the descent for NE ridge
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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Gee, I might have to make more than one trip.
;)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 01:52am PT
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This thread needs more Slesse...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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whoa, Riley, yeah, that has promise!!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 14, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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Riley
Nice shot of the Tower of Babel. The late Lloyd McKay and I made the FA of the buttress just to the right of the left-hand skyline. Many many years ago! It's in the new McLane book, and is now called the Direct North Face. My first [of very few] climb in the Rockies. Surprisingly good rock. Worth a go.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 14, 2012 - 02:49am PT
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Hey Riley again.
Yes, that is indeed the Valhallas with Gimli in the middle---but from the other side! That's the north side of Gimli, with the S ridge on the opposite side, and not visible from here. The steep right-hand ridge is 'Space Buttress'. The ominous black area on the left side is the impressive north face of Mt. Dag, with 4-5 serious rock lines. Access to it is long and complicated, and water is scarce.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 14, 2012 - 03:07am PT
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The Wolves Ears are on the left, between Dag and Gimli. You are looking at two of the three peaks of Prestley on the right.
Grizz! Yer gonna die!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 14, 2012 - 03:23am PT
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Never trust a guidebook, or even worse, a guidebook writer.
Fer sure, yer gonna die.
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 14, 2012 - 03:55am PT
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fer sure in the rockies, everyone is gonna die, several times ...
The Bugs are much safer
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 17, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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It looks as if this thread has run its course. Here are a couple of last minute suggestions.
Rockies. Part of the Wapta Traverse can be fun in the summer. Bow hut--Balfour hut--Duncan hut involves some easy glacier travel, and you can tag a few easy peaks along the way. Hut fees are about $20- or so, and you will need to arrange a car shuttle back to the start, or hitch-hike. The route, next day, crosses the col in the top centre of the photo.
Rogers Pass. After hitting the NW ridge of Sir Donald, head across the highway, and camp in Hermit Meadows. Climb Tupper the same afternoon if you're feeling strong. Next day do the Rogers to Hermit traverse, which the guide describes as "good rock, fine position and superb views". 10-12 hours return. Glacier travel, and a little snow on the traverse.
Coast Range. Nails nailed it earlier, ha ha! Waddington gets my vote too as the quintessential [sp?] Canadian peak adventure. Moderate++ this is more of a mini-expedition than other suggestions made upthread. It is also further from the border, and will require more driving, and then helicopter access. Experience on snow and ice, snow camping and good judgement are all part of the skills package for this one.For shorter trips at the coast, check out Kevin McLane's guidebook 'Alpine Select'.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 03:46am PT
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not even close to running it's course!
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Feb 18, 2012 - 09:09am PT
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More Perrin Crack
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Feb 18, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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cobwebs at rattlesnake point. because it's the greasyest five five there is. or boris route at bon echo because it the scarest 5.5 out ther
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 18, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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Riley
As you will be aware there are 3 rules for old guys:
1. Never pass a washroom.
2. Never trust ------.*
3. Never waste ------.*
There is also a fourth rule for old climbers
4. Never decline a rope-gun.
Yes I would be happy to climb with you, so PM me the next time you are out this way. However I strongly suggest Waterline over Slocan.
* Left blank so as not to offend Tami's sensibilities [!!], and so I don't get banned.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Feb 19, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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The NW ridge of Mt Sir Donald is nice.
Sadly, Mr Beckey included the climb in his 100 favorites which will multiply the traffic.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 19, 2012 - 02:28am PT
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The NW ridge of Mt Sir Donald is nice.
Sadly, Mr Beckey included the climb in his 100 favorites which will multiply the traffic.
The line has been in "50 Classic Climbs" for many years, so I don't think having it in Fred's book will increase traffic all that much.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Feb 19, 2012 - 09:27am PT
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Labrador,
Newfoundland,
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