Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Killer thread fur a bunch of Hosers. There are some really good photos too, except those blurry ones from Bmacd. For cryin' out loud...
|
|
thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
|
|
Awesome pics BMACD, Keep em comming!
|
|
bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
|
|
I bet Sonnie is likely a choir boy relative to what used to go down while getting things done in the North Walls. Great article in Aplinist on Squamish, but the wide angle picture used for Public Image was absolutely terrible
I dropped my cell phone and smashed it badly because I was laughing so hard for this photo with Tami !
Edit:
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
Chortling on the brink of madness, young Tami sniffs and searches for her lost life jacket. "It must have fallen behind the outboard motor!" squeals Tami, as she breakdances on the edge of the boat to get a closer look.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
Many thanks to Big Mike for bringing us pictures and stories of Squamish.
There is an outside chance that Luke's picture of a climber on Eurasian Eyes could be Alex H. He was due for a photo shoot on it this Aug 28th and was asking climbers starting Bullethead East how to get there.
Here is Simon I. scraping up the left finish to Bullethead East.
And here is a climber (I don't know who) on Genius Loci.
|
|
Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
|
|
Hey Big Mike. Great thread, enjoying the old and new photos of the home crag on this damp day.
Here's one from my files, any guesses on the route?
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
Supervalue start. Good camera angle.
|
|
Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
|
|
Ya, that was too easy.
A couple more random shots
[photoid=219947]
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
Danger Dan on Caboose
Caboose was my nemesis. Never could do it clean. I could lead Clean Crack (a few feet to the left) with no problem, but Caboose, a full number grade easier was never anything more than a hangdog flailfest.
I remember running into gf, Jim Brennan, and someone else in the parking lot late one afternoon, and going over to the Lower Malemute to hang out and do some climbing (and burn some pipeloads if I remember correctly). One of them, I think it was Jim, had Caboose so dialed he used it as a stage for party tricks. Heel hooking the arete for a few moves is the one I remember. While I struggled like a old cow just to get up it on TR.
Oh well.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
pipeloads? must have been someone else!
Well, not you and I, of course, because we're far too straight for that. And not Jim, maybe it was the other fellow that was with us.
|
|
Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
|
|
Hey Tami. MH2 guessed that one, its called Supervalue, and it is super value.. close to the lower parking lot at the Bluffs. You gotta run it out off the deck to avoid some later rope drag, pic's tilted a bit making it look a little extra spooky
|
|
Russ S.
climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
its called Supervalue, and it is super value.. close to the lower parking lot at the Bluffs. You gotta run it out off the deck to avoid some later rope drag,
Or... climb with two single lead lines. Tie one off at the last pro before you move onto the slab and continue with only one. At least that's the way we use to do it to avoid the rope drag...
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
|
MH2- Many thanks to everyone for paticipating!
Nice Photos! I got up Bullethead East twice this summer, but only got up the final pitch once. That pitch looked fun! We did the center handcrack which was stellar! Can't wait to go back and try the other pitches!
Saugy- Thanks. Nice belay photo of Supervalue! Ya run out. I will probably lead that one with my half ropes when i get around to it. Run-outs so close to the ground make me nervous All them are nice! I'll have to remember that trick for Caboose.. I mean.... Nevermind :)
Ghost- Did you ever get the no hands rest demonstrated by Danger Dan? Luke said he found it rather difficult also.
Tami- Maybe they were especially potent "Pipeloads"
Kyle on Center Street
Josh on Foetus Face 11c Skaha
Nina on Baby Lizard
Happy Birthday Nina!
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
There are four (or more) no hands rests on Caboose. And four or more different ways of doing it, including someone I once saw do it without touching the crack. On toprope, mind.
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
I keep reading about old classic routes that were named one thing by the FA party, and then somehow the name totally changes by the time they get widely known from being in the guidebook.
Offhand I can think of:
Ander's Bum - Seasoned on the Sun
Pipeloads - Pipeline
Mad Englishman and Dog - Astronomy
Now I'm forgetting the rest... What are the others? Anyways, I kinda like the original names. How did these change exactly?
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
Hehe, did you do it with Peter? I mean, HAHAHA, did you belay him on that heinously hard, finger lock campus board?
So I guess Anders didn't name it after his own butt. Ok, that makes sense.
I forgot that Pipeline was aided way back by Leif Patterson et. all. I like Greg Cameron's Pipeloads name better, an allusion to one of Daryl's and Perry's favorite hobbies?
|
|
hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
|
|
Pipeline was always called Pipeline.
Artificial Land [great name] somehow became Sentry Box [how boring is that???].
H.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Eternal perdition to route-renamers! May the fleas of a thousand camels infest their nether regions!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!