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Carmel Climber
Mountain climber
Carmel California
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Mar 18, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
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I don't know if anybody remembers this...But when Chouinard first offered nuts for sale in one of his catalogues, I bought a few. Since there was no picture of these things in the catalogue or their use I had no idea how to place them. I put a sling through the hole and started pounding them into the rock like a piton. "This can't right, these things can't hold anything," I said to myself, and left them at home. It was only until the next catalogue did Chouinard demonstrate how to use them, jamming not pounding. Did anyone else figure these things out before I did?
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Stevethefolkie
Trad climber
Abbottstown, PA
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Mar 18, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
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Donini - not sure about the climb name - started climbing at RS in the mid to late 1970's - winger came from a "porta-hold" 20' above my last pro (an RP hammered into a crack) - it gave - the nut below gave - a bolt held - I ended up looking my belayer in the face (upside down) with dirt in my hair ... pretty sure his name was Pete Barnes - good guy. Memories ... it is funny - the older I get the better I was ...
Cheers
Steve
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Redwood
Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
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Mar 18, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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I remember both of these articles, and especially the phrase "Nuts to you." And I remember the early nuts; they looked exotic, one might almost say clever, but they were hard to place, and they had a tendency to fall out.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Mar 18, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
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That RR Nut article was SERIOUSLY COOL!
Thanks for posting that Steve!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2013 - 10:30am PT
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Michaelc- Nice bit of nostalgia.
Thanks!
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mariaji
Social climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 20, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Marvelous writing RGold!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 28, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
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Bump!
Jump (for Joy)!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
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With Royal's love of puns, I think it was Nutcracker Sweet briefly before becoming the everlovin' Nutcracker. I bet Roper couldn't quite get behind it either.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Apr 29, 2013 - 09:27am PT
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I believe that I still have got enough room on the shelves of the Nuts Museum for a couple of amazing Apple Chocks...
Please McHale's Navy, forgive this little joke.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
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I give thanks for Royal Robbins.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Two birds with one chockstone?
Robbins and Jay Timbrel/LostInShanghai in Modesto at a screening of Valley Uprising in October, 2014.
It was a great night despite Jay's getting slightly Lost In Modesto.
Royal Robbins at 79 years.
Liz Robbins signing for Royal, joined by their son Damon.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2016 - 12:10pm PT
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Bump for the love of a good nut!
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 31, 2016 - 01:28pm PT
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I would be interested to hear stories of climbers who took long, severe whoppers and were held by nuts as opposed to pitons, etc. Or at least some good falls where the nuts held.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2016 - 02:36pm PT
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Holiday mixed nuts bump...
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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I have a folder in Moab titled (by dad), "Nuts to you!" - when i get back there I will look for it and add anything worthy to this thread ;)
If it hasn't shown up by March please someone remind me .....
Cheers ;)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2017 - 08:50pm PT
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Bump for Royal's enduring love of Nutcraft...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2017 - 07:44am PT
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Bump for Royal stories...Royal repeating Joe Brown routes with the same number of protection points is a really interesting glimpse at one master climber measuring himself out of curiosity and respect with another. So very Royal...
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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May 13, 2017 - 08:20am PT
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Here's a Royal story published in Summit Magazine in Oct. 1972, on how great nuts work in Sierra granite.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2018 - 09:47am PT
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Thanks for posting that Fritz!
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