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climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Nov 27, 2011 - 12:51am PT
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"The devil to hell"
WB
I'll second that!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 23, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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Meru should be added to this list. And people that climbed North Face of Pobeda. Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 23, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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I want to return to beginning of this tread with the question about Todd Skinner and Paul Piana, 1988 Salathe' Wall FFA.
What is the reason some want to downplay this achievement and even considered Huber as FFA instead?
The info on Clint site (http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm) make this looks as legitimate free accent, but I did not red Climbing #110
Salathe' Wall - 5.13b *** (35p: 7 5.11, 4 5.12, 4 5.13)
topo - shows both the Skinner/Piana and Huber versions of the climb.
FFA - Todd Skinner, Paul Piana, 6/88
7 days on final push
Preparation: about 30 days, over 2 months
Skinner had also freed most of it with Craig Smith in 1987.
Most pitches were redpointed. Other pitches were "pinkpointed": gear was placed free on lead, and the rope was pulled between attempts.
Many pitches were followed on aid to conserve strength/skin/flesh.
Besides the p24 "Teflon Corner", they also bolted a new 5.12a knobby variation on the left end of Long Ledge, to avoid the thin start of the original aid pitch off the right end of Long Ledge.
Climbing #110
High #191, October 1998 - a few more details on Teflon Corner
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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Alex Honnold's triple crown of Yosemite’s El Capitan, Half Dome and Mount Watkins in under 24 hours has to be on the list of possible winners.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jan 24, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
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The two guys who did the Shining Wall on Gash 4
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 24, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
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I have to question Skinner and Pianna's "free" ascent of the Salathe'. Remember that Todd's definition of free climbing was considerably different than the accepted standard of the day. Todd was a great climber,and a good friend of mine, but many of his tactics were considered marginal by the top climbers of the time.
What was impressive was that Todd, and his sub-man, would push that hard, for that long, so far off the ground, when the best climbers of the day were fixated on single push ethics. Those tactics, while not really free climbing, were eventually responsible for the evolution in free climbing which has produced real free climbs in the 5.14/ 5.15 range.
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