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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 27, 2010 - 05:29pm PT
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scarpas? eeeew. must've been getting 'em for free.
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 27, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
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BVB, Henny clued me into the scarpas. I sent almost everything at suicide with those scarpas. Those shoes own slab climbing.
Also, is top secret file on the rock across from blasted boulder1? Starts by climbing the right hand arete and then traversing across to the left on a mirror, then going up the seam in the middle?
If it is, I might know someone that has done that.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 27, 2010 - 06:21pm PT
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that sounds like it. top secret file is on a boulder that's right on the road, sort of between the tv screen and head first in the bushes, kinda near the very first blasted rock that keeled over decades ago and is now plastered into the asphalt. the problem pretty much faces east - southeast. it's on the right hand side of the road as you're walking uphill. it's a glassy 15' grey face with a couple of diagonal slashes going across it. extreme smearing. word on the street is it's the most extreme smearfest ever, thanks to the highest of highly refined shoedoping technique. pretty much need perfect shoes and perfect temps to get up the sucker. i've stared it down many times and could never even figure out how to start the thing.
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 27, 2010 - 06:57pm PT
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top secret file was another Dan Leichtfuss friction marvel - we had been trying it and getting ever..so..close without any luck, then i meet up with dan one day and he tells me it goes now. I suppose its ok to spill the beans after all these years, but dans secret was to file the soles of his shoes to expose friction-warmed virgin rubber (thus the name of the problem) for the friction wayrads.
"Stealth Bomber" is another of dans friction desperates nobody has mentioned (or even knows about?) way classic 12b. I put up a hard friction line (49th street)down in the bush which i called 11c, but i was calling head first in the bushes 11c at that time too. I have a project that I never finished but absolutely would have gone with a little more cleaning and work i dubbed "the vision" and called 12a to my high point. That was when i was sporting a hone and everything just out of my reach was "12a". Could be harder. Got another eye popping untouched line i call the henious potato and im willing to give em both up now that im too old and fat to make the FAs. If the vision is 12a, heinous potatoes will be like 12c
How about some of my other thin face routes:
Stickmen 11c, friendly fire 11d, allisons problem 12a, Fly by Night 12a,
the joker 11d, rough boys 11c/d...guess im gonna have to point em out when we get together. Got an overhanging jug route called checkered demon 11c next to a classic woodson finger crack "donnys par 3" 12a/b (lance hughson i believe, apologies if im wrong) on the missing link, which is a massive boulder north of the longs cracks. I placed 2 bolts on the lead (10a) to get to the top of the missing link and there are probably more tr lines, but another bolt on the very top is required. In the same area, Wlid Turkey 11a, nothing to fear 10b, good for the soul 10a and not far away the "faces of death" 3 mid range 5.10 faces off of a single bolt.
If you guys would listen to yer uncle ron you might learn something, heh.
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 27, 2010 - 07:10pm PT
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Re: painted boulder direct, people call that the woodward arete - would be interesting if he hadnt actually done it
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 27, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
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Isn't the "Woodward Arete" the left side of the TV Screen? He did do that for sure.
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 27, 2010 - 07:34pm PT
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hmmm ya got me, but that actually sounds more likely, painted is far from an arete, and now theres some question as to whether JW even did that problem, so i stand corrected. Thanks :)
r
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 27, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
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Ahh yes, Top Secret File. On my list but you must have to traverse in from the right arete? I've stared up at that face a few times but have yet to shoe up for it as I could not see how it starts. Maybe a manteling mutant could go for it straight up.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 27, 2010 - 10:20pm PT
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Yeah I always remember Woodward arete being the L side of the TV Screen...Trippin' BVB, Pruneface...I hadn't thought of that one since I put it up back in like...'85 I think?
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2010 - 02:05am PT
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"Anonymous hardman (aka bvb), in full mid-70's hairfarmer mode, hiking an obscure V6 Woodson highball, circa 1978. But enough about the route and the burly skill clearly in evidence...let's check out those threads! for today's bouldering outfit, our hero, clearly willing to take the most outrageous fashion risks, will be sporting a pair of Haines long underwear, neatly paired with a "tighty whitey" wifebeater tank top and cleverly accesorized with a pair of dainty powder blue corduroy shorts. grey sweat socks provide a firm anchor for the loose cuffs of the long undies, ensuring they don't ride up on those big woodson high step moves -- an often feared fashion faux pas to be avoided at all costs. rounding out today's sporting ensemble will be a length of green 2" tubular webbing, cleverly color coordinated with bob's green RR's (at the time, one of the few available alternatives to eb's) and a home-made chalkbag supported by a $2.35 cent eiger oval beaner looped through the webbing. yes ladies and gentlemen, fashion-forward style sense like this comes along once in a generation...thank god..." (rc.com)
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2010 - 02:13am PT
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The comments on the above picture from rc.com:
pbjosh on 2003-03-16
Where exactly is this problem, and any idea if it has a name? I've tromped around a reasonable amount but not a ton in the vicinity of PhD/Fall Semester but don't recall anything looking like this :)
bvb on 2003-03-16
problem does not have a name, and relocating it would be a flesh-shredding manzanita tango. like a lot of woodson's best lines, the route is long forgotten; i doubt it's been climbed in over 20 years.
misha on 2003-03-16
SWEEEEEET, it's nice to see something from back in the day.
jt512 on 2003-03-16
What's that chick got tied around her waist anyway?
vram1974 on 2003-03-17
If you read the description you'd see it was a guy (who submitted the photo) and he explains that its 2 inch green tubular webbing... that problem looks rad!
photon on 2003-03-17
your spotter needs glasses pbjosh on 2003-03-18 Well I'll have to go poking around there at some point as I look for new stuff :)
bvb on 2003-03-22
I've just cut a deal with Prana; they'll be offering this exact same bouldering outfit in 2004 as part of the "bvb signature line". Surveys and focus groups have revealed that the ladies go crazy for these kind of threads. Avoid the rush, pre-order now!
And yeah, as usual, my spotters are nowhere to be seen...or busy trying to get out of the fall line.
misha on 2003-03-23
Hey bvb, do you think you could hook me up with those threads in advance? I gotta stay ahead of the trends if I expect to keep up in this world.
jaybee on 2003-04-01
yeah, why is that guy spotting the rock? coldclimb on 2003-04-02 lol, I wondered that too Jaybee... or maybe his climber is just way up there.... A very cool shot though. This is part of why I love climbing so much.
justsendingits on 2004-03-15
That picture,and more importantly,Bob Van Gough's commentary on his ensemble made me spew my food on my keyboard!!!
sarcat on 2004-05-24
I think I had the same shorts at one time. This is the best "classic" pic on the site.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2010 - 02:18am PT
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"Bob Van Gough's commentary on his ensemble made me spew my food on my keyboard!!!"
Dang, that really make's you sound old Bob, lol!
Btw, who is the blonde guy in the bottom right?
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Graham N
Social climber
temecula
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Jan 28, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
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SOMEWHAT off topic but i thought maybe id find a willing soul in here... Gonna hike up to the T Domes soon and im looking for anyone willing to come along. The northern domes are pretty easy access since the hill still hasnt fully recovered from the fire a few years back. Any takers?
If not, see you all in march. haha. Thanks for the ideas on the face climbs. To answer the question earlier about how specifically .12 i meant i was pretty much thinking 11a - 12b. After that i dont think i have the technique to keep myself on the rock. haha. and cracks... sheeeet i think i might have to stick to 5.10 and down haha. not my biggest strength. Anyone wanna take me under their wing?
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Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
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Jan 28, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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Hello all, I was sent here to post some current images of what has been going down this season.
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Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
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Jan 28, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
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And yes, we still sit up on this rock and debate whether we are heavy enough to warrant clipping into the belay bolt (just like 20 years ago). Some things never change. Chaz literally "ties in"...
Chazzy's first trip up the Prince:
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2010 - 02:37pm PT
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Should I put you on the list Pointbrk? Anyone else that you know of that's coming?
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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So, you did that on your b-day Johnny? Let me guess, you look like you're at the Hawaii..."Five-O" mark now? (j/k)!
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Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
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Jan 28, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
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Yes I will come. I'll give a call out to the JT old school crew and see who I can talk into coming out. I may be able to host some of the crew at my place in Encinitas. We are heading out today to a "secret" area in VC near the Leichtfuss property...
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 28, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
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Yeah another view of "I would die for you." After Cilley did the first in'85 or so there was a handful of us that made early ascents and I would do it every time I went to solo "Jaws." Back then it got an .11+, do you guys still think it's that hard?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 28, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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I always figured it for B1-, or Woodson 12a. The high backstep with the left foot was always a bother for me. Didn't Cilley call it 5.11c?
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