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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 10, 2018 - 10:22am PT
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Doubly sad.
And yes, finding that food stash on Logan was a miracle.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 10, 2018 - 02:36pm PT
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A great guy. First met him in New River Gorge in '89 or '90. He always remembered me and was always fun to talk with.
He had been in a bad car accident according to Quinton.
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Jul 17, 2018 - 04:38pm PT
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I've lurked on this thread a lot, but most of my trips and photos are too run-of-the-mill to post. Here's one that's a little more off the beaten path: Cannabis Wall (without a hammer). Because we're beginner aiders and wanted to reserve lots of time for sangria in the evenings, I confess it took three sessions (not counting a two-pitch recon last year). Luke's trip report earlier on this thread was super-helpful.
Day one.
P1: The plan: lead the first two pitches to last year's high point and leave a rope. Then head back up and finish in one more day! The reality: Matty leads pitch one, and then we get chased down by thunder and rain. On the route, Matty does the splits between the last bolt and the first hook placement on the rail traverse to get into the corner and reports, "Hook placements are not for pansies!"
Day two.
P2: As I set off on pitch two, I can hear some discussion on the finer points of jumaring as Matty sets up to join us. I use cams on the climb wherever I can, having learned to appreciate their cleanability when I seconded this pitch last year. When I get to the crux, I find I've used my peckers in the wrong order and the second placement holds just the end of the medium pecker. I take advantage of the long cheater loop hanging off the anchor for a point of protection.
P3: After fighting his way almost to the end of the awkward corner, Marc gets stuck on a reachy section. The corner pushes him sideways, and he's wearing worn-out hiking shoes whose soles are coming off. I take his place and manage to paste my approach shoes to the wall high enough to stab an Alien at the next placement. This leads to clipping the fixed heads up above, which look like smooshed pieces of grey chewing gum with cables sticking out of them. The terrain below looks too rampy for a fall to work out well. Above a sketchy black tricam, I look for an alternative to hooking a deadhead (or maybe it's a piece of chewing gum). I set my smallest micronut in a perfect placement. It's perfect! But it's rated to two kilonewtons. I'm of two minds about it. When I arrive at the anchor, we agree it's iced tea and pizza time, so I just fix the line and rap down, cleaning as I go. Amazingly, the micronut comes back out again.
Day three. Marc and I come back a week later, starting earlier because the weather's gone hot.
P4: We start the day by jugging back up to our high point. Last week, I laughed at Matty's innovative sideways roll technique to jumar out of the pitch two corner, but it's better than what I come up with. The hanging belay at the start of pitch four is a huge cluster, but at least I did my racking on the ground. Marc makes a belay seat out of his aiders and settles in. Pitch four, which I kind of wangled because it doesn't involve free climbing, is pretty straightforward small nuts and cams, with a #1 ball nut for variety.
P5: Marc takes pitch five, which is long, steep, and featured, with bigger cracks and some loose-looking blocks. He brings his climbing shoes, since one of the guidebooks rates it C2 5.9, but he styles it in approach shoes. We head down in three double-rope rappels, finding a nut along the way that we didn't even know we dropped.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Jul 17, 2018 - 08:17pm PT
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These shots are from an ascent of the Aid route on the Sheriff's Badge that I did with Kieran Brownie and Luke Cormier last month. We managed to do the first one day ascent of it, 21:55. I wrote a TR for Paradox Sports, which is on their website, and posted a longer version of it on a thread here on the Taco under the title, First One Day ascent of the Aid route on the Sheriff's Badge. Thanks again to Kieran and Luke for an all time great climb!
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Jul 20, 2018 - 10:11am PT
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Thanks, Jim! It's been fun to explore new terrain with new methods of climbing.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 24, 2018 - 12:44pm PT
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Thanks, Wayne. Inspiring stories, and I especially like the, "I am so lucky to...," way of looking at the world.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 24, 2018 - 04:51pm PT
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Gotta get back there!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 29, 2018 - 09:11am PT
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Where is Big Mike? I hope all is well. I haven't heard from him in a while.
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Congratulations on your Sheriff's Badge ascent, Wayne! And thank you for posting that article on adaptive climbing.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Big Mike is doing well, Wayno, just busy with work.
Thanks for the congratulations regarding our Sheriff's Badge ascent, MH2 and Pixel. That was a very special day.
It is really heartening to see more adaptive climbers getting on the Chief, and how wonderful that the local paper, The Chief, is covering same. Thanks also to Brent and the Canadian Adaptive Climbing Society, I really look forward to seeing their programs grow. Adaptive climbing changes and enriches the lives of those participating in so many wonderful ways.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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wayne w, I have followed your exploits here and from what I've heard from Mike. You have my attention. For some strange reason I tried to do the Tangerine trip in winter for my first successful attempt at climbing El Cap. One of the team was indeed what you would now call adaptive. Mind you this was 1981 and all I know is my late buddy Dave Webster had a Skill-saw go down his leg ten years previous. Many prognoses and operations later, we somehow pulled it off. What an impression it has left me! Climb on, brother.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Here's a photo. Is there a story?
and thanks for the update on Big Mike
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Met Ava (who i believe is Pixel from upthread) and Matty the other day at a belay on the Papoose. Thought I'd share this shot of her on Hairpin's last pitch.
We climbed Obsession, which is a relatively new linkup of sorts that John Howe cleaned/bolted a few years ago. Great route - highly recommended!
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Hi Julian! Yes, that's me (Eva). Thanks for the picture and the Hairpin beta the other day. I'll have to try the left of the bulge on pitch three sometime.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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For all of Geoff Creighton's friends, there will be a celebration of his life
Ah, sh#t. I don't think I'll be able to make it. So raise a glass to his memory for me.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Thanks for your kind words, Wayno. Your late friend and yourself likely nabbed the second Adaptive El Cap ascent. That is not an insignificant accomplishment, big congratulations much belatedly. I had El Cap plans for an ascent with my friend Michael O Donnell, who was in his prime then and a force to be reckoned with, for the Spring of '83, but was hit by a car while riding my bicycle before we could do it. I was quite seriously injured, then when I had somewhat recovered, more plans went by the wayside after being hit by a car while riding my motorcycle a few years later. Finally got in my first wall in the Fall of '90, an ascent of Zodiac.
Feels good to still be getting off the deck now and then all these years later. Back to Squamish; Most recently, the University Wall on the Chief, in 11 hours on Aug 3rd. Major props to my badass friends Chris Trull and Jon Rigg for making it happen so seamlessly. What an extraordinary day we had. Jon had done the U Wall before, but it was the first time for Chris and myself. I had been looking forward to climbing it for a long while, getting up there only reaffirmed to me why. Such a great route!
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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South Gully seen from Powaqqatsi in morning shade. We saw climbers on Calculus Crack, Long Time No See, Rock On, and Hard On.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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MH2: looks like M-A scrambling the pillar..
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Thanks. My guess,too.
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