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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jan 10, 2018 - 05:09pm PT
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An interesting aspect of Deadline being that logging is arguably much riskier than wall climbing, despite appearances.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 10, 2018 - 06:30pm PT
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Scott Flavelle!
Janet Rodan!
Quinn's!
Peder!
Hamish!
Worth a second viewing, and the logging intro is a big plus.
edit:
But isn't it Rodden, not Rodan? I've been wrong all these years? History is tricky.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 11, 2018 - 12:47am PT
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Jim B
Re: photo #1. Wow, Squish sure has changed. Or is that Snowpatch?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 15, 2018 - 06:17am PT
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Scary story, Tami. I always felt nervous about authorities and the general public when using that wall. There I met Andy Pacheco and learned about his fall at the bluffs and his recovery.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 15, 2018 - 02:23pm PT
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Fall at the Bluffs? iirc it was Paul Kao, not Andy Pacheco, who took a full length, 35 m plus groundfall off the top of True Love after lowering from a loop of cable on the hydro tower anchor that wasn't swaged shut, or something of the sort.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 16, 2018 - 12:47pm PT
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He made a full recovery and climbed 11s and 12s again, iirc. The new VOC coffee table book might have some more info.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 16, 2018 - 07:16pm PT
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Thanks for the correction. It must have been Paul I met at Park Royal South. I guess I met Andy through VOC.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 17, 2018 - 09:31am PT
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I did ten years in the VOC. There's even a little profile of me in there.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 17, 2018 - 06:54pm PT
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Whew! Glad I didn't use his name. Although I could be wrong.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 17, 2018 - 07:26pm PT
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Aha! A puzzle for Tami.
The truth is out there... Or, rather, in here, on ST.
You have until 08:00 tomorrow morning to come up with the correct answer. If you fail, no choklit for you tomorrow.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 24, 2018 - 05:44pm PT
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Excellent times.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 18, 2018 - 07:44pm PT
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A name rich in climbing associations.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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May 19, 2018 - 12:07am PT
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Never got to meet Hank but well aware of his contribution to Squamish climbing.
A real pioneer.
Sounds like he lead a remarkable life.
Condolences to his family and friends.
RIP Hank.
PB
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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May 24, 2018 - 08:07pm PT
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Hank was 87, and one of the outstanding climbers in Canada in the late 1950s and 1960s. In addition to those Glenn mentions, his major ascents include the east face of Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos (1959, with Fred Beckey), Widowmaker Arete on the north shore's Crown Mountain (with Les MacDonald), and Northwest Passage on the Stawamus Chief (1965, with Fred Beckey, Leif Norman Patterson and Alex Bertulis). Hank, with Les MacDonald, may also have been the first to climb at Lighthouse Park.
Perhaps most significantly, Hank, with Jim Archer, made the first recorded rock climb at Squamish, South Gully, in 1957 - a year before the highway was completed. In 1959, Hank, with Fred Beckey and Don Claunch, did the first technical climb to the top of the Chief, which they called South Arete and which is now (more or less) called Squamish Buttress.
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Hoser
climber
Vancouver,Rome
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May 25, 2018 - 05:18am PT
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I feel like I climbed some epic line(s) of his in Marble Canyon...always wondered about him. Thanks for the picture!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jun 21, 2018 - 01:57pm PT
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Today is not only midsummer's day, it is also the 85th birthday of Jim Sinclair, who has been a fixture of the Squamish climbing scene almost since it began. Let's hope that he's up to his favourite activities today, sitting with friends, drinking coffee, and telling stories. Here's Big Jim on the porch at the Beckhams a few years ago.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 21, 2018 - 02:30pm PT
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Everybody's heard of the North Buttress of Mt Stuart, in Washington.
It has a homophone, the North Buttress of Mt Stewart, one of the Lucky Four peaks in the Cheam Range.
First ascent by Hank Mather (RIP) and Adolf Bitterlich in 1967.
On the right in the photo.
Fifty plus years without a repeat?
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 21, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
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Damn that's a beautiful mountain.
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