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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Jan 23, 2010 - 01:42am PT
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so if anybody is thinkin Mt. Woodson > Taquitz > J Tree,
tell the boss to shove it, know what i'm sayin?
this is my site right here, good ol white trash #57,
because i like my campsites a little on the trashy side,
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 23, 2010 - 02:37am PT
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If bob writes that article i will need to review it before it sees print. Thats how weve been doing things since back in the 90's....
heh bob-o, i been waitin 25 years to get that lil titty-eye on ya
Boy am I getting cheap, petty and intemperate in my old age... and it feels great!
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 24, 2010 - 01:30am PT
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I found one of my posts pasted onto the list of overnight accomodations, with the addendum "confirm by email", so i want to clarify that.
I wish i had the space to accomodate everybody who needs a place to overnight, but i dont. That was a personal offer to friends who have my phone number so dont bother to email.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2010 - 03:17am PT
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Oooops! My mistake Ron, my misunderstanding. I took it off of all the previous postings as well. Sorry.
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dmr
Social climber
Carlsbad, CA
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Jan 24, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
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There is some lovely fixed gear in the thin hands section of Jaws. Probably needs a torch or sawzall to remove. One might be able to funk it out with a sling threaded around it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 24, 2010 - 08:33pm PT
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you must be joking. how the fukc did gear get fixed in jaws?!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2010 - 09:07pm PT
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The List:
1. ? Rick Piggot
2. Greg Cameron aka Eeyonkee
3. BVB aka Bob Van Belle
4. ? Watusi aka Mike Paul
5. Greg Epperson
6. Chris Lindner
7. ? Ron Kauk
8. Off White
9. Salad
10. ? Phantom X
11. ? Zip
12. Adam Kimmerly (photographer)
13. BeeHay aka Brad H.
14. Michael aka Oldcragger
15. Randy Vogel
16-17. Steve Grossman and Mimi
18. Mr. Dick Cilley
19. Ron Gomez
20. Levi
21. M. David (can't attend)
22. mungeclimber
23. Jaybro
24. Josh Higgins (http://pullharder.org);
25. blr
26. Christian Griffith
27. Pam aka Shanti
28. ? Klk
29. ScuffyB
30-31. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
32. Bruckman
33. Jeff Leads - (Prana)
34. ? Bob D'Antonio
35. ? Matt
36. Cragman
37. Dirt Claud aka Claudio
38. Sonja aka s.d
39. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
40. ? immanti
41. Eliot Carlsen
42. Gary aka illusiondweller
43. Randy Leavitt
44. R Bolton
45. Steve Belford
46. Karen Roseme
47. Terry Upton
48. ? Mooser
49. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
50. Dr. Sprock
51. Darrell Hensel aka henny (with psychiatrist)
52. M. Fisher
53. S. Girard
54. J. Campbell
55. Chris Kleppe
56. Erik (plumber)
57. Todd Gordon
58. Radical Riley
59. Lynne Leichtfuss (Hosting Post Climb Party Sat. March 20th)
60. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
61. Pyrosis aka Tavis
62. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
63. James aka F10
64. ? Bluering
65. Tom Scott
66. GDavis
67. Dan Beal
68. ? Ed Hartouni
69. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
70. Porkchop_express
71. Chas
72. Johnny aka Johannsolo
73. Melissa
74. Schaffer
75. Nefarious
76. Tim
77. Jason
78. Gary Carpenter
79. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
80. Mo's brother
81. Matt
82. Dave Evans aka Dee ee
83. Anxious Melancholy
84. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
85. REIGN1 aka Donny Bedford
86. ? Roger Barnes
87. Dan Hauglestine
88. em knOt aka Nurse Ratchett
89. Daphne
90-91. ? Tom and Elke Lindner
92. Klimmer
93. Gonamuck aka Ron Amick
94. Dave Wonderly aka Tapes
95. Graham N
96. Dr. F
97. Shano aka Shannon Scott
98. jswan415
99. glahhg aka Nate (http://pullharder.org);
100. Jim Bridwell!
101. Snowey aka Shay (http://pullharder.org);
102. et al (http://pullharder.org);
103. et al (http://pullharder.org);
104. ATS aka Adam Stackhouse
105. jaypg aka Jay G.
106. Scott Cole
107. ? Ken Klis
108. dmr aka Derek
109. ? Curt
110-111. Dave and Wife
112. ? T2
113. ? Bobby F
114. ? Sheik
115. Pointbrk
Lodging Options:
1. Lynne Leichtfuss (Hosting Post Climb Party Sat. March 20th. Camping on Lynne's property still available 03/19-20, MUST CONFIRM VIA EMAIL BY FEB 10!)
2. Jeff aka Salad has tent camping and a few rooms. Contact him via email by clicking on his username in the thread.
3. Dos Picos Park, Ramona, CA - Some spaces still available.
http://bit.ly/6n2U8U
4. Dixon Lake, Escondido, CA. - Tent Camping available. Call for reservations:
http://bit.ly/7hU7GB
1700 La Honda Drive
Escondido, CA 92027
(760) 741-3328
5. Santee Lakes RV Campground - some tent sites available
http://santeelakes.com/campsitemap.html
6. Poway Hotels -
http://bit.ly/6o9htK
7. Ramona Hotels -
http://bit.ly/
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
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You coming in March dmr?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 25, 2010 - 01:03am PT
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The following post also appeared in the Uncertainty Principle thread but is reposted here because the TV Screen Center is a well known long standing Woodson problem:
It was an almost perfect day late in the afternoon at Woodson today. The temps went quite cool and the rock was still clean after last week's rain.
Late in the afternoon John Weinberg (Johannsolo) completed the long standing problem in the center of the TV Screen. The problem, first tried by Kevin Powell in the mid 80's was previously known under the working name of "The Emergency Broadcast System".
Based on the lack of any response to previous queries on this forum regarding any known ascents, coupled with various references that refer to the center problem being "V?", it is assumed that this is the first known (verified) ascent of the problem.
HDTV V6.
The V6 rating was felt to be appropriate because the problem was similar in nature and difficulty to that of problems in several other bouldering areas as well as the crux moves on routes at Suicide (Idyllwild).
Check it out at the upcoming reunion, it's a high quality problem on excellent rock.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 01:11am PT
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Right on Johnny! And I see you stuck with the name you had in mind. I still like "Vertical Hold", lol! HDTV fits today's technology though... great name and congrats!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 01:32am PT
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Bob, I think I've been duped! I headed up to Woodson at 1930 to check out the claim:
"There is some lovely fixed gear in the thin hands section of Jaws. Probably needs a torch or sawzall to remove. One might be able to funk it out with a sling threaded around it."
Here's the "lovely fixed gear" that was stuffed down into the top of the crack on Jaws. I recovered it without too much trouble. Hey wait, didn't that say "cam" before?! :
When I first layed down and put my headlamp into the crack, I jumped back and could swear I was looking at a bat or bats nestled snug in there! The shadows from the light made it hard to figure out what I was looking at but the more I looked, I could tell it wasn't a cam. But as I looked further down, I could see a "gear loop" and said to myeself, "Maybe it IS a cam!" So I put my fingers down to touch it and felt rubber and it was then that I finally figured out what it was that I was looking at, pfft! A few tugs and pulls later the sopping wet slipper came out. It was a nice walk up the hill though. I got back at 2100.
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dmr
Social climber
Carlsbad, CA
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Jan 25, 2010 - 01:35am PT
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Very nice Johnny.
ID - put me on the list, I hope you didn't head up to Jaws. The fixed gear isn't the type of booty you'd want. It's a size 41ish Boreal shoe, used as some sort of top rope appurtenance.
edit - too late, lol. I never said cam, I was hoping that someone post up a pic. Sorry for getting you out on a wild shoe chase.
How'd you get it out? I must have loosened it up for you.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 01:53am PT
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Hmmm...that's a lot of info on a shoe that was stuffed upside down in the crack without being to look inside and see the size! As a matter of fact, I just undid the velcro and the size isn't anywhere to be found!
Well, as I mentioned earlier about mentors, my mentor always taught me to stay calm when trying to remove protection for, given time, it'll usually comes out the same way it was put in. So I attached a biner in the gear loop with a sling attached and tugged firmly in all directions to see if it was loose in any of these which when pulled downward it moved. So I, while leaning precariously over the edge, pulled out and down, using my elbows as a fulcrum and eventually funked it out. I actually brought a hammer, large flathead screwdriver and my nut tool to work on the cam which, for some reason, I thought it was, hence the trip up there to recover "booty". Oh well, the stars were awesome and the 3/4 moon cast lots of light on the mountain!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 25, 2010 - 01:56am PT
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The owner of that shoe wants it back desperately. Please return it asap to:
(c)american fukkin' legend (aka oldschool),
po box 867-5309, flagstaff az 80911.
Thank-you for your prompt attention to this matter.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 01:59am PT
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You wouldn't, nor would Bob, want it Henny for the toe rubber, rand and leather upper is blown out. Then again, I'll send it to Bob!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 25, 2010 - 02:09am PT
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Hey, how much has Firefly been getting done since the fire? We went up there to check it out this afternoon. I ended up taking us on a wild goose chase because we ended up sans any reference other than what I remembered (obviously a bad idea - haha) from seeing it on a map just early yesterday.
Actually we ended up pretty close to it at one point, but not having a reference (and none of us had been that far down the trail before) we didn't go down hill quite far enough. I just checked again and there is reference to a trail, which none of us ever found even though we seem to have been in the correct place. That hillside is kind of ugly right there because of the fire. Did we simply miss the trail, is it rarely gone to, or did the fire have an affect on things there? How bad did the fire affect the ambiance of the problem in general?
Bummer.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 02:15am PT
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You're back in town Henny, or did you ever leave?
I haven't been down there for ages! But, what I do remember (very little memory) was heading, pretty much due north from the Ogre with Piggot, following a least path of resistance through chapparel and over the tops of boulders for no more than 500 yds. The "trail" eventually dumps you out atop the actual Firefly boulder, which, if you hadn't been there before, you wouldn't know you were standing on top of it! You descend down and around the right side of the boulder from there. It'll be on your left as you descend. You may have passed it if you went further than that.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 25, 2010 - 02:27am PT
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I'm in Orange County right now for work this week. I was up north last week, through yesterday. Couldn't resist a side trip to Woodson on my way to work. Too many things on the tick list, gotta work some of them off.
The "trail" eventually dumps you out atop the actual Firefly boulder, which, if you hadn't been there before, you wouldn't know you were standing on top of it!
As we came to suspect.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 04:55am PT
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When did the Fire's come out...83?
Illusiondweller on Jaws, circa '83?
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dmr
Social climber
Carlsbad, CA
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Jan 25, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
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Hmmm...that's a lot of info on a shoe that was stuffed upside down in the crack...
How do I get it back? In need it for my project. If I could only get that right toe to stick in that pocket...:)
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