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mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2016 - 04:01pm PT
Top Ten Reasons People Think Americans Are SToopid!!!!!!!!!!!!
1...Americans elected George W. Bush, TWICE!

2...Americans are arrogant.

3...A clown like Donald Trump is in the race for president.

4...A higher percentage of Americans do not believe in evolution than almost all other first world nations.

[Stoopid Americans still insist on the labels first world and third world. They don’t even consider the second world, which doesn't exist since the Soviet bloc dissolved. The great majority believes in a next world based on promises in the Bible, according to tradition, but is this actually so? My actuaries are assessing that. We’ll get back with more on this; or maybe not...]

5...Americans’ scores on standardized tests are falling when compared of the rest of the world.

6...America is the only first world nation without universal health care.

[Might as well spill it: a Gallup Poll in 2012 assured my actuaries that in the US only one out of four do not accept the Bible as the word of God. This is not news, as I expected. It is basically a first world problem, anyway.]

7...Americans shoot each other a lot.

8...Obesity rates in the United States lead to people thinking Americans are fat and stupid.

9...A higher percentage of Americans are incarcerated than in any other first world nation.

10...The United States is behind the curve in racial relations.

On the plus side, the US government is ahead of all governments in the world in production of useless statistics concerning our own smarts.

http://www.thetoptens.com/reasons-people-think-americans-are-stupid/
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2016 - 04:24pm PT


[Click to View YouTube Video]Beanbutt: What am I thinking about?
Buttbag (in Carnac turban): I see three things. I see dry ice, I see smoke, and I hear a classic rock score.
Beanbutt: What does it mean?
Buttbag: It is Donald Trump making his way into the Republican Convention.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2016 - 08:41pm PT

Mongo like Pokemon Go!


It's just Darwinian theory at work.

Or the Devil's Game.

The Streets Are No Longer Safe

This guy keeps circling my block.
He's always got his iPhone out.
So far this afternoon,
He's tripped on the sidewalk,
Countless times,
Bumped into a bag lady,
Nearly got run down by a skateboarder
And then by a paraplegic in a wheelchair.

Like the block-circling guy,
They all had their noses buried
In their phone screens, too.
I'm holding a safety meeting.

This must be our primary concern,
To catch Pokemon.


There is a benefit to this craze, and that is to play the game, you have to get up and move...you can't play sitting on yer butt.

Augment your reality NOW!

Become a virtual scavenger and reap the rewards!

edit: GO! Final warning.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2016 - 11:52pm PT
A Fad Dream

I put on my coonskin cap
Before waking up from a nap
I took a stroll and what did I see
But fads from today and history

A teen-age punk with his britches low
A ball cap on his head just so
With Air Jordans on his feet
Pushed a scooter down the street

A pair of girls in mini-skirts
Both wearing Climb a Rock T-shirts
Spun Hula-Hoops around their hips
While Day-Glo colors graced their lips

Their pony-tails were held in place
By Hello Kitty’s smiling face
My heart fluttered and I did sigh
Riding roller skates they glided by

A pair of yo-yos came spinning round
Walking their dogs all over the ground
Pikachu had a pet rock along
He was on his iPhone playing Pong

A crowd milled around the coffee shop
It even caused the traffic to stop
I sought the answer (I got it from Chongo)
Everyone’s playing that game Pokemon Go.

--MFM 7/20/15*

* I had this vision about a year ago. :0)
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jul 21, 2016 - 02:22am PT

It's way to hot to climb, Sorry to be the lone dissenter here but I don't actually think there is much variation in grades. I also find that amazing since the grades are coming from so many people all over the place with vastly different styles. The fact that I can go from Indian Creek, RRG, Yosemite, Tensleep, then Gunks and be pretty much climbing withing 2 letter grades in all those places is nothing short of a miracle. I'd get more variation shopping for a good price on red potatoes and lentils. We're still never more than a full number off when comparing the most sandbagged grades in the country vs. the softest. I think the system is working.
You are not the only one, don't feel alone.
Climbing grades are meant to be general guide lines.
At the best they are formed from a consensus that was filtered through regional whims & foibles. It is a given that before the Internet, climbing was less regimented, scrutinized or debated, we had to write letters to the magazines. " . . .

So the instant conversation has made a dig difference in reaching a consensus from more widely traveled experienced climbers with multi-regional,
back to back weekly changes of venue,
the meaning, or understanding comparison of grades
climbing zone to climbing zone has cemented certain
grades while other number & letter grades
still mean different things in different climbing zones.
Also Given the various height difference between,
there will never be
I've just spent some time looking for 40.5 TCPros, Your post





[Click to View YouTube Video] raw sounds for a morning wake up and almost had to get it now that I am up I'm wondering what I've done

I had to admit that the inside of my 30 yr old blue ballets are beyond wearing.

There are hard vertical ridges at the point were the shoes hinge, these bad bumps
make using the shoes impossible. So I've been trying to clamp vice grips over the offending spots go crush the blimps out . This has not worked
I need stiff shoes my toes have given up the ghost.
yawn
[Click to View YouTube Video]
when did Boreal stop stitching the leather soles in there blue crack shoes, they were sworn board lasted for generations 1-2 but by the third run they seem to have gone to gluing them in
wasting their bases of their shoes board lasted should be sewn weather so souls so no leather soles
I've pulled the
feralfae

Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
Jul 21, 2016 - 09:03pm PT
Bushman, I still have your poem on ultimate alpinism off-planet hanging above my desk. I read it sometimes, and it is delightfully inspiring. Thank you again.

Flames, your images and words continue to amuse, entertain, and sometimes pique my curiosity. I learn a lot here. Thank you for making such an enjoyable oasis of dithering and nattering. And I mean that fondly.

The heat drove us off the south-facing deck, where we are doing replacement work of planks. But not wanting to fry, we abandoned the project by 2 PM. It is hot and dry here in Helena, and everyone is watering and many people are installing air conditioning against these remarkably warm days, at least they think them remarkably warm. But I remember it being this warm as far back as 25 years ago. I like a bit of warmth and sun, and then a bit of snow and cold. It is all so interesting and beautiful, especially in the mountains.

Mouse, I am glad you are feeling well, and I hope staying cool. I'm heading back up to Alaska soon, where it is cooler and more humid. The yard will no doubt be a jungle again when I get there. But here, I am enjoying watching the prickly pear blooming and the native flowers dancing in the winds. Today a beautiful redtail hawk flew low over me while I was out in my Medicine Wheel. Very nice. :)

We start at 6AM , so I am off to dreamland. Happy Dreams to you all, with fairy dust all around you.
kind regards,
ff, part-time carpenter
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2016 - 12:43am PT
Antonyms for peaceable

belligerent cold cool mean unfriendly


We Americans are a peaceful people, as another has said on another thread--


WE are never mean, we only vote for mean leaders.

We are never belligerent, we just go to war over terrorist acts.

WE are never cold, we acknowledge the plight of the poor and homeless here,
WW accept gay couples as legitimately married all over this land.

WE are never cool, ignoring the traffic in human flesh,
the servitude of those who sew our clothing in Mexico or Bangladesh.

And WE are never unfriendly, welcoming tourists in Honolulu with leis,
while turning in our neighbor who is growing a pot plant in his back yard.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jul 22, 2016 - 01:39am PT
Mm? Or mfm? In some ways the mirror reveals Our collective apathy, those better, with longer strides, felt many were un-worthy as they strode by.

There are moments in life where a widow opens, one can see in and they
are serving caviar and fine concoctions that are obscene, given the MaCLow-down ses have no choices. and then a seven figure, five wheels & an engine drives by.

That's life the thinness 'n thickness, where the ying & yang meet.

Looking to far past the way we got here is fxdup.
I'm sensitive to us, the white bastards' , '(?) or 's (?) pre disposition to insist that the universe is ordered with them ( US, USA )as superior.

He won't speak up here but the smoking duck has insight as to layers, and cycles.
The belief that routinely the universal paradigm - how the Order of the layers might look,
the order or the hierarchy of hell on earth existence es, starts and stops at each individual's
perspective of reality in the moment of reflection.

But you hate the color purple? Is it its papal Papal/Royal symbolism that cause your stutter?

Don't go deep that's another thing you taught Deep sucks you in

The Answer Is.

BLUE . . . . Always

Unless it's Orange

And I use that thought to see the political threads, in the light of the -who is us any way-
nature of the Ernest debate, ramblings and musings.
Looking at it, More than a few miss seeing the definition of their own hell on the cycle of eternity .

?...
Good night, and the sun sz hello too.

Jon Stewert takes over Tonight show desk from desk attendant Colbert:

http://youtu.be/mNiqpBNE9ik


I nodded, not a bad thing, then came to add do go catch the zings, arrows and spears
hurled stones at the machine's lights, as if from slow moving Lowriders. The lights are perceived to be eyes but see nothing .They are the point of misdirection. The most fortified place on the machine is in Bomstic drumphs eyes. But he is also insulated from the powerful smaller tv news media, Given all the noise that the big or The National News Media is giving there is the overexposure, in a paradoxical way shine the whole front of the machine,
A spit shine but it reflects, blindingly shinney to idiots eyes.





this was all-good, until the shoes arrived oh well, day time temps 95+
The shoes are to small / tight, - so the reverse of what I'd hoped & just another softer than .m.m. M.... Not stiff enough, almost fit one foot . . Almost .
If your looking in hey Cosmic!,








I was a Scarpa climber from before they were available in the U.S.
My 1st three pairs of red & blue 'Spiders' we're all brought from England in the late 70s or 80.
My favorite & most expensive ever shoes were the board stiff Lemenstrals, (sp) ( $160+ w/ no gratis, in 1990's almost as expensive as the TCs, - comparatively.
The difference is in the quality of the construction of the Scarpas', 20 + years later are still
a shoe I've been considering having rebuilt.
Some how I've only got one pair?! That when I've three pairs. (at least) of similar, vintage 'Sportiva's.


Anyway time to drift this thread add pictures of antiques I've decided to get super cheap,
While I search for that lost box of old climbing shoes.

Climbing Shoes used to be built to LAST for climbers who were also determined to Last . . .
So demanded a Stiff Climbing shoe built on a Board Last
that provided enough structure in the toe box to stop the loss of circulation ,
that the slipp lasted conical toed, modern toe vices offer.
Does anyone else Remember the 5.10 Green Razors? I gave up
having pinkey toe, toenails to wear them.


We used to drive the makers now they try to sell us garbage that is toast in 15 months of weekly casual climbing.
It is planned obsolescence ,

jeff constine

Trad climber Ao Namao, Jul 19, 2016 - 06:19pm PT


. . . . . I only use one type of shoe for all climbing, 5.10 Moccasin's.

I do not edge, I smedge. Smear/Edge. 5.0 to 13b no problem.the only shoes I've used this century.
Now My toe needs more support - a stiffer Shoe.
I set to work, to try & flatten out the vertical ridges that have popped up inside the shoes at the 'hinge' where the shoe bends, pressing the offending bumps did not work. I started looking at the latest shoes available.


The hype around the TC's had me seriously following the posts about fit.

I was waiting for the right pair to show up for sale. I was still unsure about the way to size them.

Then I started to hear some negative comments,- still compared to the Lack of durability & stiffness

of almost all the rest of the shoes on the market , The TC Pros seemed like the best/only option.

UNTIL

aspens, 5 days ago
Women's La Sportiva lace up Miuras
Basically new. Worn on maybe three pitches. Edges still sharp, most of the dirt is just from being lugged around with gear. Size 39.

Also, a sexy pair of old school Boreal Ballet Golds. Nice stiff soles, rubber still in great condition. Similar in size to a la sportiva 39/40? (I'm a women's street shoe size 8.5) .
I had loved these, even kinda liked the rubber
.They Look New ! ?
these look so fresh, I asked if the size was still legible *
My shoe reads, 12240, S, 2, 8 8. So Far I was stoked. (I should have known !)
Then I noticed that the boots' inside foot plate, was not stitched to the shoe ( not the boot I have )it must be glued. when did the company make that sad change? Ask a stupid Question, in 19889-89, duh .and the girls version ?
Weak sauce,
That was a drag to see, it had me asking for more pics,Remember when shoes came with Thick(heavy) rubber?, again I noticed the full rand, but not the
shape split my shoes are more like a boot and along the lines similar to the 1St gen.hightop TCs. These were Cut more like a high shoe, fit more like a slipper.
Crazy thing is that for my smaller foot the women's 8.5 sounded right so it ended up the revers of what I had thought it would be. By the time I'm done making a mess of limited funds and time, may be ill have some sending shoes.
The white Boreal label STILL on the soles !? will rub off after 'five' minutes at the gym, they must be plastic virgins? ( actually one deep 'score' or scratch is visible soo? )
Who is this aspen in Portland anyway? she says she climbs mainly in gods own Valley and around Nort Cal. Trad zones, Im falling in love. . . .
With The Shoes With real old shoes.

We struck a cool deal, less than 1/2 what a used pair of TC pros' goes for.

I sure hope they fit , she actually said send them back if they don't!

I won't but it was a nice thing to hear. She was a bit cagey hiding the eyelets I'll bet they show some

rust. And she was To sly by half Too, ten pics and not one shot of the TOES !!?

They will be a bit big on my smaller foot, my old one may work for that.

What is the go to rubber to re-sole these for Granite & Quartzite?

& Jeff C, You've clearly been at this playing with gravity game a long time'
This is a 20 year old drawing that seems to be a romanticized view of you, I know you don't smile.
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Jul 22, 2016 - 06:28am PT

Big Words/Weak Sauce

Bombastically pessimistic
Lambasting the populace
Protuberant with petulance
Pissing to the left
Pissing to the right
The bloated angry baboon theatrically demonstrates his salient carpet defecation bombing policies to the masses
Who chant in unison
Profuse with primitive white inbred ignorance
Spurring the fatuous polemic utterances of their champion
Who vomits his ignorance upon the unwitting television viewers
As they wait with bated breath
And accept his fetid offerings in kind

-bushman
07/22/2016
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2016 - 07:45am PT

The STATE FAIR in the FIFTIES.

The fireworks displays from the grandstand at the old Stockton Blvd. fair site in old Sacramento were such fun with my family. We lived across the American River in the newly-spreading suburbs during the Baby Boom.

We drove in to town (the south side of the American was "town" and we lived in "suburbia") a couple of years to occupy seats and try to behave ourselves.

One year, Mike and I tried to count the explosions but we never agreed on a number.

Another year, probably '54 when Lenna was three, we tried to get her to watch the displays, but she wanted to go back to the pony rides.

One night we were all walking back to the car parked blocks away.
The fire dept. was there because some fireworks had set a local roof ablaze.

And one night we saw governor Goodwin J. Knight, but how and why I don't recall.

The Worst Fifteen Cent Prize of All Time

There was a booth at the midway that offered a duckling, among other prizes,
if you pitched a nickel into an area with various glass pieces, like a platter on a pedestal, jars, etc.
I ran out of nickels, not having won anything, so I reached over to Dad's pile,
which was diminishing slowly but he still had several, and I nipped one as he was throwing.
I won a duck.
Then Mike won a duck.
And then Dad won a duck.
Dad decreed that since I had not asked for the nickel, that I was responsible for cleaning the yard from duck doo-doo.
The rest of the summer, the ducks grew and the piles of doo-doo got larger commensurately.
They all mysteriously died, no one knew how.
We just found them dead in the yard.
Could it have been the snail food?
We never did anything with the dead ducks but put them in the garbage.
I think we threw our money away that time, along with the dead ducks.
[Click to View YouTube Video]Allman/Haynes/Trucks - The Needle and the Damage Done
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAWMRmIO92A

Allman Brothers Band - Whipping Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rx_UaQx5eZQ
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Jul 22, 2016 - 08:00am PT
Oh the Duckmanity!!

Secondhand snail bait
Consumed via duck meat
Contaminated by snail bait
Kidney failure and pancreas damage
Corrosion of the digestive tract
Seizures and unconsciousness
Coma and death
Not a good way to go
Gratitude is given
That the Mouse Clan did not
Partake of the quack ceased offerings

-bushman

zBrown

Ice climber
Jul 22, 2016 - 08:12am PT
I try to stay off political threads as much as possible especially if I haven't read the last few 1000's posts, but just being responsible hear?

cuz zedZ

[Click to View YouTube Video]
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2016 - 08:36am PT
I'm hearing you from they belay just below the Ear, zBrown.

There's a kinky echo here at the belay...
It's reverbing Zz's reverb-erb-erb.

And I must say it's superb-erb-erb.

Think I'll have some more herb-erb-erb.

I have mostly good things to say about the Ear, the only really bad one being
IT WATERS SOAKED MY BUFFALO BREATH RUGBY SHIRT.


http://cheynelempe.blogspot.com/2010/06/salathe-wall-el-capitan.

http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2009/12/freerider-how-i-first-climbed-el-capitan/

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2016 - 09:16am PT
trad_at_heart

The Personal Messaging System (PMS) is highly unreliable. It's tradition, though, a running joke.

I've sent you one PM, never gotten a response, know it never got through to you.

Here's my email, in that case.

bermingham.brian53@gmail.com

It will be good to rehash the old days, FWIW. We didn't interact that much, but knew a lot of the same folks.

A Spark if not a Flame, Dick Ellsworth was a good friend to all blondes.Is that ICE?
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jul 22, 2016 - 09:25am PT
Bumping heat Flames in mindFire it up
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
Are they looking for Pokemon?

It doesn't seem like it, but they could be taking a break.

I know, the heat's tough.

Makes it hard to put total strength into the search for the little bugger.

It's only 88° outside here (nanner~nanner).

But that will change, guaranteed.

It'll be the Wilt the Stilt kinda heat, too,
not some Romeo white boy shite, hear me?

Nawmean?

Nawmasayin?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
A Brief Review

I get it now but did not get it then
Back when the West was wild:
“All this has happened before,” I said back then
“It’s enough to confuse a child.”

A trick of the mind that happened to me
I’m sure you’ve experienced, too:
I said it before that it happened to me,
And we now call it deja vu.
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Jul 22, 2016 - 10:45pm PT
Rest you Rambln' Man

Oh the rambling man
Takes up the hours as best he can
Livin' his life so full of dreams
His rambling's as good as it seems
When he's running from the heat
It ain't cracked up to what it's been

Stop all this a ramblin'
And settle down
Ain't gonna stop ramblin
And foolin' around
Ain't gonna let no woman
Tie me down
Ramblin an a rollin'
All over town

Oh the Ramblin' Man
Oh the Ramblin' Man
Ramblin' Man
Ramblin' Sam
Oh the Ramblin' Man

Bushman
07/22/2016
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Jul 23, 2016 - 12:51am PT
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Jul 23, 2016 - 07:58am PT
On Old Rusty Mountain

Near the end of the prickly pear traverse
Up on pitch ten of old Rusty Mountain
I sat on a ledge to pull the quills out of my paws
And turned to clip in when I heard the eerie calls

The warm blood trickled around my waist
Something grabbed me by my back without a care
I heard a blood curdling scream that I was falling
I realized it was me as I was lifted in the air

It had me in it's clutches and we were flying
The deafening pterodactyl cries filled the sky
But dangling limply and trying to figure it out
The rope came up tight and I knew that I would die

The belay knife was in my hand and sawing at the rope
The sound I heard again was from below
As a shot rang out the great bird released me
As I fell to the ledge I was hurt but didn't know

We rapped a thousand feet in twenty five minutes
My rap gear was melting as my feet touched the ground
On the boulders below we never stopped running
I laid down as my partner pulled the car around

On the rough track of winding road we hit seventy
And we never slowed down until the highway
At the hospital they said at first I had no vitals
And I can't believe to this day how we ever got away

My partner gives me a phone call once in awhile
I think he still feels guilty he shot me on that pitch
And knowing it's hard to hit a moving target
I never blamed him once but still I walk with a hitch

The locals in the tavern warned us about the place
They spoke of missing livestock and odd happenings up there
So if ever you must go near Rusty Mountain
Take it from me firsthand that you ought to stay clear

-bushman
07/23/2016

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