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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Not bashing them BECAUSE they are euros, but their account of their climb and its rating is pretty obviously ridiculous.
If their rating is based upon Intifada, then even "metric" doesn't get it done. Intifada had one short section of not-even-really-very-hard (like old-school A4), while the rest of it was just grungy (think vertical beach) and pretty easy (except for trying to clean Beyer's useless alumi-blobs from his trenches from below).
Their praise of Intifada is the most laughable of all, IMO. Intifada's line is not "direct," bold, or special in any way. It meanders a lot, ends at the ridge where it shares two pitches, and then heads back onto the face one pitch from the top in order to have one last finale of "difficulty" -- from a BOLT ANCHOR.
So, I take the account of their route with a huge pillar of salt, given that they base their notions of "greatness" and "difficulty" on such a mediocre and quite easy route.
And, think about Intifada this way: if two losers like the Mad Bolters could easily do it, and downgrade it, on their first major desert "rock" outing, how hard could it have been?
Note: Beyer is not the measure of American climbing difficulty or greatness, even on his "specialty:" desert "rock."
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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I think the joke is on you guys.
It's hilarious how everyone is frothing at the mouth over a bit of contrived aid wankery.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Clearly, the question is whether the route is A6c or A6d.
There are some who are even trying to downrate it to A6b!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Well, there's a BIG difference between those letter grades, so I surely hope that no downgrading occurs until many teams have done the route to develop a reliable (read: objective) consensus. Otherwise the rating would be just arbitrary.
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ArtifoATope
Big Wall climber
Spain
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May 20, 2010 - 11:51am PT
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Excuse my English, I studied French in school. use an automatic translator and the result is not always correct.
On the internet they are all good climbers.
Why instead of criticizing without sense, there is a strong team to repeat the itinerary?
David Palmada and Esther Ollé have an impressive record of aid climbing. They deserve respect, as well as climbing in Europe.
There are many routes in Spain that many of the critics would be unable to repeat.
More respect and if not known is better informed before speaking.
They say it is a proposal to be confirmed. WILL CONFIRM!
Santi
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Sorry to resurrect a dead thread, but I've been searching the Net for any updated info on this route. I find no topo. I find no way to contact the FA team. Is there any more updated info on this route, particularly a topo of it? Anybody know anything other than that it's on the Titan?
Thanks in advance!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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/\ Boo yah, get it!
Just read that Infantada TR. Fantastic read.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Thank you.
Any leads on a topo?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!