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Knox
Trad climber
Austria
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Hey Guys, complaininīabout our via ferratas?
FIRST, you Americans stop polluting our world/climate with your V8īs and playing the worldīs police and making war ībout the oil. After that we can talk about making the impossible possible. Do what ever you do over there, nail up your cracks on El Cap, make out of an A5 an A3 drill holes in your rock for hooks, destroy your parks and environment but donīt you tell us what to do!
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Knox, I think that many here are on the same page as you.
It looked like you were typing against hypocrisy. Maybe provincialism too, which I believe can be destructive. Then again, did you see anything about this?
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36682
Maybe joining local climbing groups can foster understanding.
but chalk!?, I heard once that someone once said it was cheating.
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Knox
Trad climber
Austria
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The sandstone in Czech Republik and Elbsandstein (south of Berlin) reacts with chalk so it is forbidden. The use of slcdīs or nutīs too due to the very soft rock!
Hey, I donīt like these ferrata-community, too, even in my home crag there are some. It makes a difference if thereīs a steel rope for 30 feet at a loose traverse up some "easy" trail, I donīt like the steel!! So, please donīt missunderstand!
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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I thought that there was a similar ethic on the sandstone in Austria. Thanks for the reference to Elbsandstein, now I know it is in Germany. Maybe you'll laugh, but an American with the name Fredericks didn't remember that a sandstone crag called "sandstein" might possibly have been in Germany not Austria.
Anyway, it seems like interesting community of characters here. Hope you stay and share. I'm sometimes surprised by who posts every now and then.
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Knox
Trad climber
Austria
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To my knoxledge we have no "sandstein" in Austria. We have limestone, dolomite, gneis, Lavastone, granite so called urgestein (primary rock). The ethics at my local crag (Kaisergebirge) are, that new routs can be bolted (how depends on the FA-Climber) old routs are re-bolted that means, there is a commitee (climbers, mountain guides, locals) which discusses evrey single bolts, so ethics are guaranteed on all the old classics!
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Rich the Brit
Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
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Aug 11, 2009 - 02:24am PT
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My Ferrata story. I thought it would be a great holiday for the wife and I. She was not too keen on my alpine adventures, but this seemed a treat. She had a ball except...
There was a steel cable crossing a steep snow filled gully about 40 ft wide. The cable was buried. No problem thought I. I will kick my way across gully, pulling out the cable as I go. No need to get my axe out or put my crampons on - I have a cable to protect me. Halfway across the gully, I pulled the frayed end of the cable out of the snow!!!
The alpine huts on some of the Italian via ferrata are amazing. You can get wine and a 3 course meal. They give you blankets and such, so all you really need is your wallet, a helmet, a ferrate rig and something to snack. We snaked our way around the limestone towers for days before coming back to base.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Aug 11, 2009 - 08:13am PT
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They have a lot of them in the German Alps too.
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Aug 11, 2009 - 09:24am PT
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Interesting thread, does anyone know the history of the North Face Cables Route on Longs? Was that treated as a "Via Ferrata" or just a hand line? And when were the cables removed?
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Saltydog
climber
NC
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Aug 11, 2009 - 10:36am PT
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The fatality a few years back at NRP via ferrata in WV was due to being totally unclipped and slipping/falling from a decent ledge.
Pure complacency.
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TMO
Trad climber
Puyallup, WA
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Aug 11, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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"You Americans?" F-off knott, please don't judge me by what country I live in!
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Knox
Trad climber
Austria
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Aug 12, 2009 - 09:03am PT
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@ TMO: sorry, diidnīt want to overgenralize, but you can say that a little more normal..... Did I say F* Y Americans?
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papa_eos
Trad climber
conejo valley, california
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Jan 18, 2010 - 12:06am PT
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Another LA Times article:
http://www.latimes.com/travel/la-tr-viaferrata17-2010jan17,0,7549250.story
Just love the quote "Bednar, 40, is the unlikeliest of rock jocks: She doesn't have Popeye-sized forearms, a devil-may-care attitude about great heights or the names of Sherpas in her Friends and Family Plan. She's never even set foot in a rock-climbing gym"
I got to get me some of those Popeye arms and that devil-may-care attitude going. I wonder what the disclaimer says before you sign it. I'm sure this type of climbing will be coming to a mountain range near you soon ( with a Starbucks at the top)
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 18, 2010 - 12:59am PT
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A short walk leads to the landing spot where, moments later, a helicopter clatters out of the sky.
In three minutes, we're back at the lodge. The women dash off to their spa appointments; I head for the bar.
Awesome. That is what we need more of following hard summit bids.
That article is absurd and I really don't like how it glances over Conrad Anker's quote like he is just some shmuck (what does that guy know about mountains and wilderness anyways) and then it quotes this Howatt guy making Anker look like some elitist jerk...
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corniss chopper
Mountain climber
san jose, ca
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Jan 18, 2010 - 02:14am PT
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A via ferrata up the north side of Mt Starr King to alleviate the congestion on the Half Dome Cables would be cool. Of course would need
to build a trail up there also.
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Blinky
Trad climber
North Carolina
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Jan 18, 2010 - 09:04am PT
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I recently saw something similar for the via ferrata at Nelson Rocks.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 25, 2010 - 03:24am PT
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It's the future of climbing.
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Gilwad
climber
Frozen In Somewhere
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Apr 25, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
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I ended up doing about 25 Ferratas in Italy and Austria over the course of a couple of years. I started doing them while researching for an article on the history of soldiers in the Dolomites, then just got into doing them for the sheer fun of it. They are tons of fun, fast routes to wild places, savage workout too! On days with marginal weather, or with a slower partner or whatever a Via is perfect.
It's hard to argue against a Via in Italy or almost anywhere in the Alps when there are blasted paths through the mountains everywhere, roads, huts (hotels really), etc. etc., a Via just isn't a good big deal in that context.
But for here in North America I'm generally opposed; maybe a couple in areas close to civilization (Ogden), but our mountains are in general much less cluttered with human debris, and that's what makes them special. We have a small cable section on Yamnuska's descent/tourist route, nice to have it there. A few places like that, maybe the Bugs one (don't know enough about that situation, haven't been up there lately), but in general not something I'd like to see done extensively in North America.
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corniss chopper
Mountain climber
san jose, ca
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Apr 25, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
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Fortmetal
You make a good point about getting American's off the couch but the
unintended consequence is congestion at the crags.
No one wants to wait in line or climb behind the slow or butterfinger prone.
I say keep as many people as possible overweight and gravity challenged
glued to their couches. Why isn't there a pizza delivery service in Yosemite Valley working the campgrounds? That alone would ground many would be climbers.
That Whistler Via F' looks to be on a most uninspiring looking lump of stone.
But the view looks good though out over the BC mtns.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 25, 2010 - 06:57pm PT
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//FIRST, you Americans stop polluting our world/climate with your V8īs//
Of course, Austrian's don't produce carbon or import goods from countries that do.
and playing the worldīs police
Maybe we should just join up with the Nazis in the country next door next times there's a world war, or did you forget that there were more Austrians in the SS than Germans.
and making war ībout the oil.
You're right. We should make them about world domination for Aryan supremacy.
Do what ever you do over there, nail up your cracks on El Cap, make out of an A5 an A3 drill holes in your rock for hooks
Maybe you're talking about the Euros who come over and repeat hard routes on the Captain, bringing their bolt kits for courage. When Porter and Bridwell first climbed them, no one anywhere could have done them in better style.
destroy your parks and environment
Of course, cable cars, huts with restaurants, arrows painted all over the rocks, chipped holds, fixed pins, via ferrata, and jacuzzi parties on alpine summits is all about keeping the environment pure.
but donīt you tell us what to do!
Then why are you telling us? Look Knox, I'm not saying Americans are perfect but I've got no patience for ignorant Euros who don't think their own sh#t stinks.
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