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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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May 25, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
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As long as I've been climbing, 40 years or so, the definition of "on-sight" has meant an ascent of a route from the bottom to the top with no falls.
Seems pretty simple to me.
At the end of the day, at the end of all this discussion, an honest and accurate description of the ascent can only be described one way.
He on-sighted every pitch except one. There is no way around that description, everything else is just word games.
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bob
climber
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May 25, 2009 - 03:24pm PT
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Mark wrote: "He on-sighted every pitch except one. There is no way around that description, everything else is just word games."
Hard to argue/debate that.
Bob J.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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May 25, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
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Word, BobJ....If ya ask him, instead of idle spewing, I think you'll find he agrees with Mark.
Warriors aren't good with "gimmes"......
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bob
climber
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May 25, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
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Skully,
I guess I spewed in my first post about the Australians because there was some talk of onsight attemps and they came to mind and I was curious if anyone had some info.
On my second spew, my first sentence was a (I thought) funny personal joke to Jake. The second went to the idea of how many people I feel go into our climbing achievements through so many different ways and was just agreeing. Third and fourth sentence went to Jake about how we can breakdown climbing all we want because I'm going climbing with him in the next couple of days. Perfect is a funny word I've had much trouble with. We can talk about it.
My last post was because I though what Mark had just said was really good.
I never was talking about an agreeing or disagreeing thing between anyone was I?
Why so rough Skully?
Bob
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 25, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
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Not to nit-pick the work "On-sight" cause I don't pay money nor homage to the person that did the first "perfect" anything but still
Anybody want to answer the question
"Would it have been a more perfect ascent if he hadn't slipped on the easy 11 but had gear and water stashed so he didn't have to haul? (by a friend to save the onsight?) "
Peace
Karl
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 25, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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An OT response, but the thread title reminded me of an old Mad Magazine bit with a title 'I killed 9 Japs one-handed.' The first line after the title: 'When I saw those 9 one-handed Japs coming at me...'
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 25, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
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Another nit-picking matter of respect (rather than just making a definition and making a me-first list based on meeting the definition)
If the guy had swung leads and got all the free climbing clean (say his partner had fallen of some of her pitches) that would still be an onsight right? He would have only hauled half.
Or he could have gone in a party of three, with somebody leading half the pitches, and never having to haul (and maybe even cleaning some of the gear out of the pitches he would have to follow) No hauling, leading half the pitches, that would still be an onsight right?
So which is prouder and how do we stack these adventures up against one another? I guess those who live for the sponsor and the guidebook can have their bone.
Peace
Karl
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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May 25, 2009 - 07:35pm PT
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I'm not pickin' on ya Bob.......An accident of timing.
Timing remarks is HARD in this format. In person, one can qualify remarks......On the InfernoNet, not so much.
I actually think you had some moments there......Yowza.
Actually, My opinion sucks, cuz I'm no Badass.
Just another Hack.........Groove on, Sir.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 26, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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Bump
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2009 - 01:36am PT
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uhhh....
I'm not good at the nitpicking portion. All I can say is the FACTS. FACT is - BAD ASS!!!
As long as people are honest about what they do and are motivated for the right reasons (not mag covers, product endorsement deals, babez) POWER TO THE PEOPLE! If you have to stash some sh!t at long ledge, so whut??? If other climbers don't mind, sweet! Less work eh? Honesty and humility bring respect, which is why the climbing community is so rad.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 26, 2009 - 02:36am PT
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It 's definitely Proud, and Bad ass, as well, it's just not free!
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2009 - 02:44am PT
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er, whats not free? If he re-led the pitch, that is.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 26, 2009 - 02:57am PT
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Is that what happened?
Not clear from these posts.
Pulled the rope, cleaned the pieces?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
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May 26, 2009 - 03:21am PT
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" Alex Honnold . . . spend(s) MONTHS in the valley every year, specifically training for hard granite free climbing . "
Nothing like creative soft_ing of history to make a point I guess . . . so funny .
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 26, 2009 - 11:16am PT
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Jaybro wrote
"Is that what happened?
Not clear from these posts.
Pulled the rope, cleaned the pieces?"
So are you saying he didn't even free the route if he didn't clean all the pieces from the 5.11 he slipped on? Does that mean that clipping any fixed gear denies a free ascent?
PEace
Karl
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Double D
climber
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May 26, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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Impressive feat no matter what.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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May 26, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
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Good for him, super impressive!
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loveofonelife
climber
Either side of Atlantic
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May 26, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Pleaaaaase.
Some on this thread need to learn how to google and yahoo.
U. Steck. Winner Piolet d'Or 2009!
Do you ignorants even know what the Piolet d'Or is?
No? OK, small clue: Thomas Huber got it in 2001.
As a Californian, I am ashamed again and again by the nombrilistic nanocentric attitudes on this website. Honestly, there are so many posters here who don't seem to have a clue that climbing exists outside of Yosemite.
No wonder the San Francisco Comical and LA Times paint this community as a bunch of ego idiots. A community where women are groupies, hanging girls ripe for collection, where braggadaccio reigns, etc., etc., etc.
As a woman in this community, as a member of AAC, I would like to ask Chris Mc to raise the level on this site.
The whole world can read the garbage displayed here. Little climbers full of their one and only 5.13a rate and comment on one of the elite climbers in the world without having a clue who he is?
No wonder Chris Sharma moved to Europe...
Oh , and by the way...
Onsight is onsight, no rap inspection, no watching another guy/girl sending it;
Onsight with falls but clean repeats on the fall pitch is redpoint;
Free is free, ie no ascenders
Other definitions available in books at a shop near you.
The Golden Fleece of this episode goes to Tom Evans however:
"These Austrians seem to be alpinists of some note..." (elcapreport.com)
Tom, 15+1 = (-1)^2 * x. What is x?
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
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Thats one impressive rant. Maybe limit yourself to 3 cups of coffee per day? Take life less seriously, were just talking here. Anyone on this thread would gladly shake Ueli Steck's hand in a heartbeat, regardless of how we quantify climbs.
The Piolet d'Or has gone from symbol of extreme alpinism to empty huzzah back to a symbol of extreme alpinism. When it was awarded for that siege effort I wondered what the motives were of the governing bodies, but they seem to have their feet back underneath em.
If you want some good content on the site, post it. Don't lurk and critique without adding to the pot - These 'yosemite ego-maniacs' (as you probably assume them to be) have contributed to this site, and I think it would be prudent to do the same.
Your screen name is loveofonelife yet you posted this
"A community where women are groupies, hanging girls ripe for collection, where braggadaccio reigns, etc., etc., etc. "
huh????
What is the real gripe here?
Relax, babe. Grab a beer and enjoy the stories, lest they be censored for your approval.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 26, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
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GDavis, Dude, great Thread and great decafe advice !
By the way, what a frickin' Honeymoon :D! Kinda observed over the years that most climbers that love the rock and the challenge climb for themselves. Sure he and she are pretty pleased with the climb. Missed ya at Nomad's last couple times, maybe next. lrl
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