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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 17, 2009 - 12:16am PT
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Chiloe wrote: "Thinking back, I realize that each of those first few Ascent issues literally changed my life. Unlike today when there is so much information available about climbs and
climbing, back then each Ascent opened doors to previously unseen worlds."
I'm right there with you. I was just a kid when those early issues came out and I would take them to school and just stare at the pics. The layout and everything about them made the climbs seem mythical and epic, like something from a magical world.
I trust, or hope, that we captured a little of this magic in the new Stonemaster book.
I'll tell you, Royal Robbins bottled lightning in his new book -supposedly, the first of seven long form memoirs - entitled: My Life (subtitle: Volume one - To Be Brave). He was able to get down to first causes, and so the material has real strength, like the tide or the monsoon.
But those old Ascents - hell, they were like the Holy Grail to me.
JL
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jun 17, 2009 - 12:35am PT
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Amazing stuff Roy!
Great for the soul. Thanks.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jun 17, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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In following Tarbuster’s wonderful link on the 1969 Ascent, I found a poster who mentioned he had some Ascents for sale. I purchase his collection of Ascents-------- just to get the 1968 Ascent---which was one of 2 missing in my collection.
I am now selling my duplicate 1969 Ascent (and other Ascents now or soon) on EBAY-----for those that want to own this classic----here’s the item number: 160341532561
Some of us are “Completests”. Easy example is: those who want to do every route in the “50 Classic Climbs” book. I have accepted I will never climb all those routes: but I honor them.
A more achievable literary equivalent is to acquire all issues of Ascent.
Ascent was published yearly 1967-1974, then there was the 1975-76 combined issue. After that: anthologies of old articles, with occasional new stories, got published every few years 1980 to the late 90's.
For young cutting edge climbers of the late 60's early 70's: Ascent was the coolest climbing publication. It featured the best and best- writing American climbers (and an occasional Brit), great photos, and artsy stories.
Keep posting Tar----The “Tillie’s Lookout” story with great new words like "enfootment" and "rumpage" changed my life. Glad you’ve saved the best for last!
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taylor
Social climber
the local crag
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Jun 17, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
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this is great reading and should be a part of every climbers education. nothing is more important than knowing our own history
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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I'll contiue to scan & post each article from this 1969 ASCENT until we reach, page by page, the back cover. I'll do so consecutively as they appear in the actual magazine.
Enjoy!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jun 17, 2009 - 08:40pm PT
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I recall how my Dad, a world-traveling geologist, reacted when he saw the cover of the '69
Ascent:
"There ain't no such mountain!"
He was joking, of course, obviously there was, but reacting to the otherworldly quality of that
cover -- more striking in color, with brown rock and white snow against a pitch-black sky.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 24, 2009 - 04:42pm PT
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A shout-out to Tarbuster, Steve or somebody else who scansalot ...
Anyone got a scan of the Tuolumne Meadows article in that 1969 Ascent, or (better yet) the Tom Higgins article about the Meadows that came out in AAJ around the same time?
I'm asking first because both influenced my early climbing career, and also I vaguely recall Tom discussing the Cooke Book and its rating, which could be interesting in light of Zander's recent TR.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
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Sir Scansalot here!
(Okay, that appellation goes to Steve Grossman, but...)
We are almost there.
But first, and in sequence as promised, we will see Ed Ward Drummond's White Elephant, White Whale.
Then, Matterhorn, by Dennis Eberl.
Then, drum roll, by popular demand and also in sequence:
"The Conquest of Tilllies Lookout"
!!!
So I will get to scanning and lastly produce "Eleven Domes", text and photos by Steve Roper.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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I gotta shake out.
Check back in a wee bit...
 like in Star Trek when that droll, mechanical, monotone feline computer voice says: *WORKING*
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 24, 2009 - 07:34pm PT
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like in Star Trek when that monotone feline computer says: *WORKING*
Way cooler than an hourglass icon followed by the Blue Screen Of Death.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jul 24, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
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I have two of these at home. I still get it out from time to time. DR's Climber as Visionary article is one of my all time favorites. And I love Higgins' line: "Aerojet General built him a chrome-moly cube. . . . He did all four sides." And after a successful day at the crag, I like to look at my companions and say: "Are there no more worlds to conquer?", waiting for someone to say, "The bar opens at 4!" But all I get are blank looks. I gotta get some older partners.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
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Of older partners, you are much in need, indeed.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 24, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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"...standing sentinel among other hummocks"...
This sh#t is genius! You old guys were really treated to some literary gems. The most my generation gets is fag-dashed Sherman retread diatribes and crass commercialism for the latest Chinese sweatshop wares du alpinisma.
Now who can scan a quality copy of the ascent of Mt. Poontanga?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 25, 2009 - 08:26am PT
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There it is, "Eleven Domes," one of the Ascent articles that changed my life, as I mentioned upthread.
On another thread someone mentioned their worries raised by detailed beta on The Hobbit Book, which
apparently described runouts and height-dependent moves. I posted a somewhat curmudgeonly note
about there being too much beta in the climbing world nowadays, just go climb the thing.
In the article Tarbuster scanned above is everything that we knew about The Hobbit Book when Leslie
and I climbed it in 1976, and we had a fine time:
"The Hobbit Book. III, 5.7.
...Four pitches in this book comprise the route. Don't stay in the main crack all the time -- occasionally
wander 20 feet to the left on the incredibly knobby wall. This is perhaps the most enjoyable climb in the
Meadows."
We were stylin' in PAs, with one set of hexes and stoppers.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2009 - 10:19am PT
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I miss my PA's.....
NOT !!!
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