ROOF CRACKS!!!!!!

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KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 3, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
Ciley, Always thought A Dogs was rated 12.a which is what most people are calling Separate Reality these days. Anyways, makes a lot more sense. BVB that East Coast thing looks classic.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Feb 3, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
That thing looks sweet Moj!

and no, I didn't get an email...perhaps a resend?
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Feb 3, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
10-4
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 3, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
A dogs, nice pics, the rattly fingers section past the horizontal felt desperate, could never link it
Murf

climber
Feb 3, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
Granite Dance .11a .. Indian Country, Photo cred. DEE
Unfortunately, the whole flake is loose.

From a distance, photo cred M. Morley
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 3, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
yeah kenny, on dog's i shot right out to the lip and took a near-grounder after turning it. i was so surprised at having done the thing that i came unglued in the 5.10 shallow corner above the roof. did it next try.

i taped my fingers pretty good and no doubt that helped quite a bit in that rattly section.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 3, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
nice
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Feb 3, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
BVB, are you rocking the sportiva Tao in that NE sequence? I hated those things...they died a fast and much-deserved death. Good edging, though, I suppose.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
awesome shots!!!

hey hutch, did u just find that???? hands or what??

was thinking of heading over to the pipestone maybe tomorrow.....

u be down?


-patrick


edit: could u send me the email with the pics also???
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 3, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
rhodo, those flippers i'm runnin' on dog's are 5.10 verticals. i liked 'em a lot until i got some fire ballets resoled with 5.10 rubber. the fire last/5.10 rubber matchup produced one hell of a fine shoe for cracks, slabs, and steep face climbing.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Feb 3, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
Pat, I found that and others yesterday near the Interstate on My side of the pass. I e-mailed Tom some pics of the finer (but not all ) pebbles that I found. I am down for something this week, let me know when you can and I can work out the kiddo situation.

edit: fist to wide-hands, I reckon--not sure if a kick-through would be helpful or not.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Feb 3, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
Did someone mention Overdrive in Yosemite?

Here's a shot of myself leading the roof. The crux as Tarbuster had said is just over the roof where the crack thins, and a tough 1-1/4 move bars the way to the top.

Since were on the subject of roofs, I should throw out the Dune Cracks, in the San Fernando valley, California. 43 feet of overhanging crack that varies from 1-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches. Great training for the aspiring crackmaster!
and a short movie clip too!!
[url=http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g56/lunarlevy/?action=view¤t=MVI_4270.flv]{{img}}h~~p://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g56/lunarlevy/th_MVI_4270.jpg[/img][/url]
Cuckawalla

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Feb 3, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
Red Rocks: Brother;s Crack
bubble boy

Big Wall climber
T100
Feb 4, 2009 - 12:25am PT
Dune cracks beta??? I remember someone saying it was in encino, but don't remember where.????
Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
Feb 4, 2009 - 04:59am PT
Here are some Alabama Sandstone roof crack classics:

Champagne Jam, 5.12a, Sand Rock, Alabama, August, 1984
The initial climbing history:
FFA: Greg Collins, 1984
2nd Ascent: Rob Robinson
3rd Ascent: Gene Smith
4th Ascent: Jeff Gruenberg
5th Ascent: H. Suzuki

Champagne Jam, Sand Rock, Alabama, August, 1984

Chandler's Roof, 5.12, Steele, Alabama, 1985


BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Feb 4, 2009 - 02:29pm PT
Big Bob's Big Wedgie...

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 4, 2009 - 02:53pm PT
MH2 do you have any shots of the Voodoo Amour roof?
quartziteflight

climber
Who knows?
Feb 4, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
roof cracks are my favorite....

Biggest tits


Life without parole


crackhouse


Nats



Spin to win

quartziteflight

climber
Who knows?
Feb 4, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
BVB,

That flagstaff sh#t looks rad! What's the climbing season there?
MH2

climber
Feb 4, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
MH2 do you have any shots of the Voodoo Amour roof?


No. That was in the blissful pre-camera period.

I thought of that one but it is more of a hand traverse under a roof although it happens to go out the roof, too.
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