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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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May 18, 2008 - 12:23pm PT
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First few times I went out we used Goldline.
Once the "new" kernmantle ropes came out though we made a quick switch.
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Ferretlegger
Trad climber
san Jose, CA
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May 18, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
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Paul Martzen,
Yes, I was in the Physics Department at UCSB in 1978-1979. I had fairly recently (1976) returned from wintering over at South Pole Station, and had been working in the electronics shop and teaching the Masters Instrumentation program. Around the time you mention, I had returned to grad school and may have started working for David Cannell. My memory of this period is a little fuzzy, but reminiscing about the old climbing exploits seems to be dragging a lot of related memories and names up!
Michael Jefferson
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 18, 2008 - 05:12pm PT
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Winter and spring 1970, UCSB and Isla Vista went from laid back to intense. I've got a slide
or two from those strange days around somewhere.
But come summer 1970, I retired the goldline for this new Chouinard fantasia, which seemed
a thing of beauty at the time.
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tiki-jer
climber
fresno/clovis
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May 19, 2008 - 09:34am PT
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Yup!! I still have my Goldline. We used to coil them up by spooling'em on our knees. I believe I bought that at West Ridge as well. Since we lived in Santa Monica at the time.
Lots of memories of tr'ing at Stoney and at Sespe Gorge.
We used to rap with stich plates and breaker bars cause none of us had an Eight at the time. Talk about a stiff rope. We had to rap the rope around our waist once it was through the device for extra added friction cause the descents were quite abit fast. Even in summer I would wear my down vest for protection against rope burn.
Did some wild ass stuff as kids rapping down the main face of Stoney while running back and forth to start a pendy while descending and then in mid-arch doing 360's spins and landing again on our feet and start the arc in the other direction.
Did'nt think of the sawing action up top ;)
We did that for a few weekends until my buddy Brian hit his head and conked out....luckily his other buddies gave him a firemans belay from below. He is fine but we never did that shiite again.
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kimgraves
Trad climber
2 exits North of the Gunks
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May 19, 2008 - 11:07am PT
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Yep. First rope I owned. It was "a LONG time ago."
Best, Kim
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 19, 2008 - 12:03pm PT
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we all seem to have climbed on goldline. and i know that at least a few regular posters who haven't jumped into this thread did so as well. what this thread demonstrates, should there be any lingering doubts, is that st really is the miami beach of climbing forums.
we should all just buy white loafers and get it over with.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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May 19, 2008 - 12:17pm PT
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Hey Ferretlegger,
I thought your name sounded familiar. My brother, Phil was doing post doc in the department at that time and talked about you. We probably met. I did go over to Tahquitz with someone from the physics department, but I don't think it was you. Could be wrong. My sister in law, Eloise, was the secretary for Dr. Broida, the fellow who washed over a waterfall in '79.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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May 19, 2008 - 12:19pm PT
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Not quite ready for the white loafers yet.
Was climbing this weekend with a rope gun that probably started with braided mamoth sinew.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 19, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
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Chiloe
That fantasia was pretty--I didn't get one, but
I got a WHITE one with light red crossings.
It was a beaut! Loved them old Chouinard ropes.
Until I started climbing on Edilrid ropes (I got deals on
them from a friend). Now it's pretty much Beal.
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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May 19, 2008 - 06:53pm PT
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Yup, even tied in with a bollin aoin a coil. 7/16x120. Mail order from REI. Wish I had pictures! Ever tried repeling via a dullfersit(sh*t, you know what I mean ) on a gold line? I still have the scars.
Tony
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 19, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
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Tyear, we had specially made jeans pads with shoelace tie-ons for that particular operation.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 19, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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Thank you, navblk4! I probably once knew more about knots and hitches, when I was in Scouts, but simply can't remember. It's all a bit esoteric now.
I acquired my nickname when I was in Scouts too - because I wasn't. Adolescent humour. "OK Hiker" would be closer to the truth, then and now.
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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May 19, 2008 - 07:36pm PT
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First climbing trip in 1971 just happened to be into the Sierra Back country (destiny?) My scout master said we'd ONLY go climbing IF I carried everything...hmmm child abuse? Anyway I was 13 years old and about 100 pounds and on top of all my backpacking stuff (state of the art heavy boy scout issue) was 2 120 foot goldlines, 2 hammers and a day pack with pins and steel carabiners! Bowline on a coil and had to do a "mandatory" dulfer sitz to show I could always get down if it hit the fan. ouch! I think that was probably my last chance to exercise any common sense (didnt, still climbing), though I went to kern mantle right after that trip!
DN
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scuffy b
climber
watching the flytrap
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May 19, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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A couple people have alluded to washing and shrinking ropes.
The background: when MSR was young and tiny, one of its issues
was the shortcomings of Goldline.
Larry Penberthy, Mr. MSR, wanted people to climb on kernmantel
ropes, but he also felt that the European ropes available then
were too expensive.
He worked a deal with a U.S. rope manufacturer (Sampson?) to
provide kernmantel ropes to thrifty U.S. climbers.
The ropes were white. MSR recommended RIT dye for coloring.
The ropes were static, but cooking them would make them shrink
and become dynamic ropes.
Wild color schemes were possible.
Yes, I've climbed with Goldline. It left distinctive bruises
if you fell onto a bowline-on-coil.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 20, 2008 - 02:29pm PT
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My partner had one of those MSR dye-it-yourself ropes. It looked funky, I liked my fantasia better.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 20, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
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I wonder how many climbers' mothers' washing machines had a tussle with an MSR rope, and came out the worse for it?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 20, 2008 - 02:59pm PT
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hence, the 'Penberthy knot'.
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Caveman
climber
Cumberland Plateau
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May 20, 2008 - 03:21pm PT
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Goldline was fine for a laid rope. Had good abrasion resistance,much better than some kernmantles. It is also not hard to increase the working strength of several knots simply by increasing the radius of key turns in the knot. When I'm climbing I'll take the rope end and thread it back through the bowline or figure eight at the first sharp bend.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 20, 2008 - 03:22pm PT
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"Borrowed" (then inhereted) my dad's goldline that he must have bought in the late 50's or early 60's. Looks like 3/8" 120'. Used to use that and his old pins and hammer to TR a touch, when I was learning to rock climb. Instructor used fatter goldline, and taught the darn Dulfersitz before we graduated to biner blocks with 2" swami's and 1" shoulder slings twisted into leg loops.
Beautiful rope. Kinda regret uncoiling it for use as my dad had it woven in the neat looking coil. Still looks fresh as a daisy.
No thanks to another body rappel on that stuff though...
-Brian in SLC
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