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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 15, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
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Don,
Elvis Leads! ...I mean, Lives.
Only to you would I admit feeling a tad silly with that big cam swinging off me. I'll bet the "way runout" reputation of this actually rather reasonable crack got started by Pratt simply not bothering to put anything in.
Perhaps I am slightly redeemed by being the only other climber in this thread OW-ing in shorts. How does that go? Old dogs, new wrinkles?
Now, about your hot pink leg loops... You gonna blame them too on the "continuity girl" in your movie?
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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Had to make do with available pink webbing for the rappel!
Now Doug you know I never use a harness climbing or chalk.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 15, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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Oh Don, far be it from me to accuse you of being in harness...
Must admit I use one. Must be among the many bad habit -- like strained tendons -- that I picked up climbing indoors. But then you could have your choice of stone within 20 minute, while I'm stuck in Surf City without a paddle.
I'm fully with you on being chalkless. Bad habit kinda like smoking. Gives people something to do with their hands while vacillating at a crux. Not among the white powders that remotely temp me.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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BTW Doug, that's Roger Very Hairy (aka Derryberry) with the video cam. The video was a requirement for getting an TV Survivor interview. Got the interview, but they probably figured out that I was just a dirty old man with nefarious intentions - so I didn't get a call-back.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2009 - 07:51pm PT
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Evdawg, I will be in the area this weekend. If you want to borrow a #9 let me know. Email gccchris@yahoo dot com
Doug, your mom has the same size foot as you?
Salamanizer, can't wait to for the TR on "Growing Up". Post 2 of it; one for enjoying & one for the others to rant.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 15, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
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I could barely fit into my Mom's old Pivettas without socks -- but they're so cool I had to.
Full disclosure: after the photos I came down and changed into my Acopas. Rands are nice in cracks.
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Apr 17, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
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"Evan, just go out there and start climbing the thing. Don't listen to all the hype B.S. and psyche yourself out. Bring an assortment of gear and when you get to the base, look up and decide from there. Don't take everything though, not enough gear is probably better than way too much on a crack like that.
The route is only 5.9, and not a specially hard one at that. You'll send..... "
"Evdawg, I will be in the area this weekend. If you want to borrow a #9 let me know."
well we went down to the Bishop/Independence area this week to climb Mt.Williamson and then Pratt's Crack on the way back but my dad sadly broke his ankle on the approach to Williamson so the rest of the trip was out...
after the hospital we stayed the night in bishop and today i got to at least run up to the base of Pratt's and gawk at the route.... looks alot easier than its cracked up to be...
and rwedgee i think i'll try to take you up on that offer next time you're down there, thanks!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Apr 17, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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Evdawg-
Now that you've seen it, it's image will be seared into the very fabric of your soul... Forever taunting and screaming at the walls.
It will become an obsession, constantly crying out until it is finally laid to rest.
No matter how much time passes or how deep you bury it in your mind, it will always be there waiting.
You have lots of time, but even forever can come up short.
...and there is little worse than "I wish I would have".
Go back, soon!
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And give us a TR, with Pics!
Broken ankle???
Harsh!!!
Hope all is well soon.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 17, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
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Wow - THAT is a TR! I bow to the master...
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Apr 17, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
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yeah it was a bummer!
he was way exausted after the first day and it was obvious we weren't going to make the summit in time at that pace so we camped and day two started heading out, i glissading and he snowshoeing... his snowshoe slipped out from him and he rolled/twisted/F-ed up his ankle about 500 feet up the dang snowfield :/
he said his ankle only hurt when he bent his foot up or down so he was able to hike out very slowly and cautiously with me carrying his pack for a ways... we had a little scare later when up on the snowfield he snapped his trecking pole and almost went for a ride..
hospital said a fractured tibula but he's already planned to go back asap after the 6-8 weeks!
but as far as pratt's crack, you're right, i can't wait to get on that thing... and will definately post up!
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brett
climber
oregon
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Apr 18, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
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If Don Lauria is still following this thread, would it be ok for someone to post "Letters From TM" ? I have not read this in 20 years and would love to see it again.
thanks
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 19, 2009 - 01:26am PT
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I have no objections, it's just that the language is quite risque.
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Apr 19, 2009 - 01:35am PT
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Maybe the Dawg family has an unfortunate tendency to leg fractures?
Kidding.
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Swifter
Social climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Two pix of Pratt on the FA here. RH photo shows Chuck at a chockstone. If he tied this off for protection it was his first. Did he belay from here or continue? I don't remember.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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wow, thanks Swifter, what a wonderful image!
a recollection provided to the distributed consciousness by the collective memory... and its interconnection...
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Bad Climber
climber
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Freakish and wild. Well done. I now know what I WON'T be doing this winter.
BAd
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scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
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Jan 10, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
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Very nice to see this again.
There was a photo, common, maybe iconic, in the old days, may have even
been a poster.
Mike Covington, maybe, climbing this in mountaineering garb, with snow
involved?
Galen Rowell photo?
Any bells ringing?
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Jan 10, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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"There was a photo, common, maybe iconic, in the old days, may have even
been a poster.
Mike Covington, maybe, climbing this in mountaineering garb, with snow
involved?
Galen Rowell photo?
Any bells ringing?"
I have the poster, I'll try and post up a photo of it later,
Yes a Galen photo
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Jan 10, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
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here ya go scuffy
Galen Rowell poster
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Jan 10, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
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It was really great to do this climb with Radical and F10. A legendary climb with good friends - thanks guys!
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