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Leroy
climber
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Dec 13, 2005 - 02:45pm PT
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What about Emotional Rescue ? You done that? Persian Room is overhangig thin crack.
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Alan Doak
climber
boulder, co
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Dec 14, 2005 - 01:24am PT
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I can't believe noone posted Big Bob's Big Wedge. A forty foot horizontal roof crack that starts with slammer handjams and gradually widens to henious oh-dub. It even stays out of the wind, and gets sun in the winter and shade in the summer.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 14, 2005 - 02:24pm PT
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For excellent crack climbs in the Southern Wonderland consider these:
The Poodle Smasher 11b
Poaching Bighorn 11b
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estwing
Trad climber
montreal
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Dec 14, 2005 - 02:56pm PT
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Anybody ever repeat Stingray?
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Dec 15, 2005 - 02:30am PT
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Another vote for the Eye.
Another vote for Pope's Crack.
La Reina
El Rey
2nd pitch of ZigZag
Drawstring
Geronimo
Dogleg
Waterchute
Bat Crack
Perpetual Motion
Right and Left Bananna Cracks
Ipecac
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Dec 15, 2005 - 08:47am PT
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'82 was me and my partner's first year climbing and one day we decided to throw a top rope up on Hobbit Roof. We found out the hard way that the crux is not the roof crack but the face below it. We were stinking up the place pretty bad when some guy walks over from HVCG to find out where the smell is coming from. He watched us for what must have seemed to him like forever while giving us advice to actually get our feet off the ground. Finally after we had dragged our sorry butts over the top, and we were tearing down our anchor, here comes that guy up over the roof, soloing the climb we had just spent the last hour "working" on. When we saw him, our jaws dropped down to our toes, rendering both of us speechless. When we were once again able to talk, my partner Bob says "I think that was John Bachar".
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sr
climber
Bay Area, CA
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Dec 15, 2005 - 11:04pm PT
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Alice in Wonderjam- bit of a walk but worth it. 5.9.
Martin Quits- short but nice 10c.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Dec 16, 2005 - 12:33am PT
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Here's two that I think should be on the list. Certainly long enough and imo very classic.
Crime of the Century
The other is called, I think, Lithophiliac. It's a double crack through a bulge on the Gray Giant left of Hyperion...
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 16, 2005 - 02:59pm PT
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x5.5=juan=batten: of course your right; the best cracks/routes are near the road and the place is a total choss pile (but we tolerate it anyway).
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Dec 16, 2005 - 03:09pm PT
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Best cracks to watch somebody way better than I climb it:
Acid Crack
Baby Apes
Equinox
Dihedralman
Worst thing at Josh, not really a crack more like a gaping void:
Human Sacrifice
aaand anything Kris Solemn says is probably correct, just don't ask about keeping your car on the road.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 16, 2005 - 03:22pm PT
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Acid Crack and Equinox are excellent.
Baby Apes isn't really a crack at all (one pinky lock on the route), but is a fun climb nonetheless.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Dec 16, 2005 - 03:33pm PT
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Hey Alps, I think the statute of limitations is up on that one..
:-)
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Dec 16, 2005 - 04:48pm PT
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Kris,
if it were just one, true enough, almost named a good crack "staying on the road" but thought "Cow Killer" might be better.
Sketchy, I thought it was a crack I fell out of after doing the ape move, just think I was supposed to be face climbing!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Dec 16, 2005 - 04:56pm PT
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but I didn't go off the road to hit the cow...
Oh. Anyone metion "Anacram?"
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Dec 16, 2005 - 05:00pm PT
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Who can forget the image of a porsche bouncing across the desert?
Glad you were ok, and that your shoulder is better now. Last time you injured yourself that i knew of, was you fell of a boulder problem because you were checking out a couple biological boulders. wasn't it your shoulder then too?
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Dru
climber
HELL, BABY, HELL!
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Dec 16, 2005 - 05:25pm PT
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in an old climbing mag there was a picture of a climb at josh called "scorched earth" with this climber in a flared chimney pinching down to fist size above his head - he has a fist jam stuck- then it looks like it opens wide again above. beautiful shot. not in the vogel guide and i always wondered where it is?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Dec 16, 2005 - 05:34pm PT
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That was a wrist. Fell off the very top of Steetcar whilst in the act of standing up on the lip... Lucky that's all I broke.
Another classic Josh crack is the California Crack in Indian Cove. I believe the FFA was by none other than O'Kelley (famed for another classic crack.)
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Dec 16, 2005 - 05:48pm PT
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Most underrated Crack ie Wrong rating?
Anything put up by Mike Waugh on a cold day.
and Kris, sorry I did not remember, Streetcar, your wrist, and yes, I do remember her name.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 16, 2005 - 05:55pm PT
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Wet Tee-Shirt Night is an oft overlooked .10+ not too far from HVC. I was glad someone recommended that one...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Dec 16, 2005 - 06:00pm PT
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Wet T Shirt Night is a face climb if I've ever seen one, and pretty stiff at .10+, but there is that pretty good crack just to it's left up to a ledge and then up and past a little roof.
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