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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Oct 27, 2017 - 04:19pm PT
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I can tie my shoes in 5 minutes. Is that good enough?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 27, 2017 - 07:45pm PT
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If they were to pitch it out that's under 5 min per pitch!?!? Holy balls, I can't imagine. It must be so fun to move over rock like that, in a type 2 fun kinda way.
Oh, and can you put the error bars please?
Obligatory for scientific measurements. Might be kinda hard when the data points aren't averages.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Oct 27, 2017 - 08:25pm PT
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kids these days...
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 28, 2017 - 08:22am PT
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Entering 2017 for X into that formula gives me -5997.2 - something wrong...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2017 - 09:23am PT
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Kids these days...they just don't value intimidation$$$
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Oct 30, 2017 - 12:10pm PT
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Cool graph, Delcross. Like other sports/events, we're getting close to the asymptote. The last record stood for 5 years. How long for this one? I think of the long jump record that Beemon held for, what, 29 years? It's safe, I think, to assume that the Nose cannot be climbed in an hour, just like the 100 meter dash won't be run in 5 seconds. So where's the limit? And, a question from the Werner School of Climbing Philosophy, does it matter? Will shaving a second, half a second, as with other timed events, be important? Just musing here. The nerve and athleticism in involved in these battles is staggering.
BAd
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2017 - 02:00pm PT
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For the question about the rack, if its hand size or bigger they just solo it and aren't going to fall anyway. That stuff is pretty cruiser for those guys. For the style that the record breakers are climbing they aren't even placing that much gear. They lead in huge blocks and only pass the rack back to the leader a couple times in strategic locations like the king swing. Most of the time they are just clipping fixed gear and anchors and may only have 1 or 2 pieces clipped in between them. Clearly what they are doing is super dangerous but its all in the pursuit of temporary glory. ;-)
In terms of timing verification is pretty easy. someone walks to the base with a watch and then someone is waiting at the top with another watch. In addition to everyone in the meadow that watches them through binoculars and tom's camera.
I think in terms of the "final record" it can go a bit lower but the risk will continue to rise. there has to be some limit but I don't think were there yet. just my 2 cents
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 30, 2017 - 02:17pm PT
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Most of the time they are just clipping fixed gear and anchors
Is the fixed gear documented?
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Oct 30, 2017 - 02:35pm PT
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As amazing as these records are, they are losing impact as news. Shaving seconds is a yawner. NIAD was huge news the first time it was done. Not even newsworthy now.
Timing would be more accurate and impossible to cheat if there was a phone app that streamed video with a date-time caption of the start and finish to a secure website. Any person, including the climbers, could take the video of the start and finish..
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 30, 2017 - 03:37pm PT
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Is the fixed gear documented? What do you mean, like do people know where the bolts, pitons and jammed gear are?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Oct 30, 2017 - 03:39pm PT
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Great stuff. But sketchy going that fast, as Brett unfortunately showed. If only people realized the skill and dedication and commitment required to go for a record like that. It's all in at this point - and that's not a game people can easily realize or appreciate.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 30, 2017 - 03:55pm PT
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The fixed gear in crucial places could affect the time at some point. If a record was broken by a couple of minutes for instance. Getting nutpicky.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Oct 30, 2017 - 05:37pm PT
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I talked with Brad in El Cap Meadows a few weeks before they set the record and given that the best teams are basically working at the same or close to the same light speed, the principal concern is not fixed gear but the means by which they can efficiently pass other parties on the route, and waiting till the right moment to fire, given who is presently on the wall and where they are. No one these days is likely to get The Nose all to themselves unless they set off in the dead of winter.
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MAD BOLTER
Trad climber
CARLSBAD,NM
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Oct 31, 2017 - 01:48pm PT
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And my down-speed was about 6hrs for the nose on a solo rap.. I was not trying for speed. Have fun Y'ALL
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 31, 2017 - 02:11pm PT
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Modern Nose speed climbers now-a-daze need a LED helmet with red and blue flashing lights and siren running code 3
so that everyone up there stops and yields the right of way to the speed climbers ..... :-)
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Oct 31, 2017 - 03:11pm PT
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You can force a trendline on the data which suggests the time won’t go below 2 hours. There are not many points and my gut feeling is it will and this will happen in the not too distant future. Dawn Wall has been jumared in about 45 minutes, so there is still plenty of room for improvement.
Its more interesting to take a qualitative view and look at when the big reductions in time occurred. Biggest factors were probably the introduction of cams and short fixing. Incremental improvements came from intensive rehearsal leading to better beta and the general rise in climbing standards. Records fall in clusters, I wonder if the latest impressive ascent will encourage more attempts soon?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Oct 31, 2017 - 04:01pm PT
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Incremental improvements came from intensive rehearsal
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Not in my experience. Once a person gets any climb ruthlessly wired, they climb MUCH more efficiently, and that translates to big savings of time. Once every foothold and jam and cam placement has been memorized and rehearsed countless times, THEN you are up against incremental increases in speed. But the time difference between an on-sight ascent and your 20th ascent is likely to be vast, even if you are climbing belay to belay.
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Matt's
climber
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Oct 31, 2017 - 04:05pm PT
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I think that times can still go down a lot, without big changes in the risk profile-- imagine having two 5.14 granite climbers that have ruthlessly dialed the route-- they would be able to comfortably simul-climb (without aiding) all but a few pitches... i imagine that would be a lot faster than short-fixing...
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Oct 31, 2017 - 08:26pm PT
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Matt’s got it. Stronger climbers= Less aid climbing= Faster times. The record can and will go sub 2
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 31, 2017 - 08:45pm PT
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The next olympics will include speed climbing and some young climbers now will be influenced by it. That could play a role in the future of speed records.
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