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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
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Fritz, I remember that shot of Michael Kennedy. I seem to have misplaced that image.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 13, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Jim: Emailing you my scanned jpeg of the above Wilderness Experience Ad. photo. It's pretty good at 1.29mb. Likely Angela could eliminate the Ad copy, for a fairly clean approximation of the original.
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crankster
Trad climber
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Jun 13, 2015 - 04:56pm PT
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Wow. Hardcore stuff. Thanks, Jim.
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michaellane
climber
Bonita, California
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Jun 13, 2015 - 10:26pm PT
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What a great post. Appreciate the history and the admonition lessons equally.
Thanks, Jim.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 13, 2015 - 10:55pm PT
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So you pound a piece on steel into the ice and just put you rope over it? I don't really get it? I would love to see a picture.
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Maeday
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jun 13, 2015 - 11:34pm PT
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Great post, well written! Eternal vigilance, so true.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 14, 2015 - 04:37am PT
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...and ALWAYS the sharp existential vigilance required of exhausted bodies moving, ever slowly, down to the promised land of level ground, warmth and food....life itself.
Beautiful. How many of us have spent desperate time rapping and rapping, worried about anchors, worried about running out of rope, worried about everything? We can relate but we cannot feel what you felt. The photos do it justice.
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Jun 14, 2015 - 07:02am PT
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Good Morning Some of our legendary climbers, on a pretty legendary climb.
""""""""""So you pound a piece on steel into the ice and just put you rope over it? I don't really get it? I would love to see a picture."""""""""
Please, I too would like to know how Mr. Mike M
Thank You Very Much.
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Mr. Jim Brennan :
"""""""""""""""""""" don't have pictures of a conduit rappel anchor. What you did was cut a piece of 3/4" steel electrical conduit into 16" lengths and stowed them in your pack. When it was time to rappel, you pounded them into the ice at a degree that offered resistance to the angle of descent . Sling 'em and rappel."""""""""""""""""""""""
Good Morning Mr. Brennan, my question is this: but for many rappels (How Latok1, you have to have many meters of steel pipes for rappel (many yardes) Thanks for the explanation.
Greetings
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jun 14, 2015 - 08:05am PT
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Thanks for sharing
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
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Waterman....there was a bit of thread drift. There was talk that metal conduit was used back in the 70's for raps from ice.
We didn't have any....all of our raps were from the technical hardware we had, extra rope made into slings, a few V Threads etc.
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Jun 14, 2015 - 11:30pm PT
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Thank you very much for your answer Mr Donini (also Mr. Tami)
My problem, not understanding your language (and I am very sorry) I have to support the automatic translator, and this translates very roughly, (not good) and, therefore, many times, we understand little and evil of speech which you He speaks, and when I want to try to explain my question, this (automatic translator) translates badly.( not good)
Anyway, thank you very much for your explanations.
Many greetings from Italy
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Loco de Pedra
Mountain climber
Around the World
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Jun 15, 2015 - 08:32am PT
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Very well written, thank you. Inspiring and instructional as well. Bad Ass.
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JohnnyG
climber
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Jun 15, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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An all-time great post.
Question for you Donini - how much did Jeff Lowe recover with the loss of altitude? Things are certainly easier when you are on flat ground, but you still had a trek to do. And you were all pretty trashed.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
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Johnny G....Jeff was in about the same shape as we were by the time we got to basecamp, which isn't saying a whole lot. We had a very arduous nine day hike out which is a whole other story.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jun 15, 2015 - 04:55pm PT
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And on which pitch did the Elephant appear, Jim?
You seem to have seen him several times in your long career.
Elephants are good luck, especially if they have raised their trunks in salute.
The Mouse salutes you, George, Jeff, and Michael for your perseverance and determination and obvious skills, including judgment.
One can plan for only so many days food when going light, too.
Wonderful story.
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Turok
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jun 18, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
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Thanks for posting Jim. Your perspective is appreciated. Jeff told me the story upon his return to Eldo, however reading your account still gives me chicken skin. The team's successful retreat in order to insure Jeff's survival was a monumental achievement. Cheers my friend.
Kevin
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Bump to go along with Waterman's thread.
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MAD BOLTER
Trad climber
CARLSBAD,NM
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RAPPING IS A BIG LET-DOWN !!
AND BE SURE YOU DON'T COME OFF THE END OF THE ROPE TO MAKE A BIG HIT ON BROADWAY !!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 11, 2015 - 11:35pm PT
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hey there say, ... thought this would be a neat read for folks, this weekend... :)
just looking for some nice stuff, after the spammer...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 12, 2015 - 01:15am PT
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hey there, say, robert L...
say, me, not even being a climber, i really love seeing this...
wow, thanks for all the trouble to post all this...
well, night all, happy good eve... got to get to chores... :)
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