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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 16, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
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Wow, who needs a time machine when we have photo archives like this!
Looked like a fun trip, so cool to see the old guard when they were young.
So many climbers climbed hard when they were young and then fell by the wayside due to life getting in the way. It's an inspiration to see the Donini's, Becky's and other's still getting it done in great style after soooo many years!
What's your secret to eternal youth, I mean eternal tendons?
Thanks for posting up!
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rolo
climber
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Sep 17, 2013 - 04:44am PT
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Here is a bad quality photocopy version of the article that Jim wrote for National Geographic at the time. May be someone out there has a full color copy that they can post? It is the december of 1976 National Geographic, volume 150, number 6, pages 812 to 823.
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rolo
climber
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Sep 17, 2013 - 05:04am PT
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Here is yet another bad quality photocopy version of an article Jim wrote about their Torre Egger climb, this time for Mountain Magazine (Mountain 51, pages 19-27). Unfortunately I don't have any of these articles in better quality. I thought people might enjoy reading them. Thanks to Jim for all the great, priceless photos.
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adnix
Big Wall climber
Finland
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Sep 17, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
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I've got the mountain 51 here at home if you need better scans. It's in B&W so the quality wont be much better, though.
Superb pics Jim!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Sep 17, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Thank you Jim for sharing these memories!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 17, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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Thank you for posting the article rolo!
Damn, I want to get out to Patagonia now! Why can't it have weather that is more stable?! Can't justify climbing once a month yet...
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rolo
climber
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Sep 17, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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The weather is far more stable now that in the 80s and 90s, no question about that. Jim might be able to provide a comparison to the 70s. The long repeated spells of sunny weather that happen now did not use to happen. As proof marshes and lagoons have dried up at an unbelievable rate in the entire area. The last few years there is also a lot less rime. One of the biggest considerations now when choosing an objective is heat. Sounds strange, but it is true.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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Rolo knows better than anyone. We had six weeks of CONTINUOUS storms during the Torre Egger climb, you don't see that anymore. Rolo, i'm in Bozeman for Jack Tackle's 60th birthday. He and i are talking about trying a route on the NE spur of San Valentin ih late Jan./ Feb.
Looks like Patagonia had a decent winter for once, a brief reprieve for the Ice Caps.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 17, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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"Badass" is an expression that gets used and abused a lot. It should be saved for stuff like this. Such a mind blowing grand adventure.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
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Sep 17, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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Whatever happened to the Whillans box?
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
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Sep 17, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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Great stuff Jim!
can't wait to go give that thing a try.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Sep 17, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
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The Blob box was even better than a Whillans' box. Blob and his friend Ben had a collapsible metal box with 2 bunk beds for their 1978 attempt. They spent 28 days in it, 14 because of storms, and only had 1 book to read.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 18, 2013 - 12:01am PT
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Love the caption "Contemplating the issue." The issue!
Love the opening line to the Nat Geo article: "Nobody had climbed Torre Egger before - and there were reasons."
Love the story that this pic tells, or hints at:
Love how terrifying this pic is. Quo vadis Domine? Errr, Donini?
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aguacaliente
climber
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Sep 18, 2013 - 03:28am PT
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great thread, great article thanks Donini and Rolo.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Sep 18, 2013 - 10:11am PT
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I vote for a few more pictures of our hero at that young age - any more pics Jim?
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nopantsben
climber
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one of the best threads ever! thanks jim.
hope to see you soon..
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Eli W
Sport climber
Portland, ME
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Dec 18, 2014 - 11:14am PT
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Hey Jim,
I just happened upon these photos-somebody sent me a link-and I would love to see more! I am Jay's kid, and it would be great to see more photos of your trip with him down to Patagonia. I don't know how or when you'll get this, in your email or on some forgotten forum thread, but I hope it finds you well.
Thanks,
Eli
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Dec 18, 2014 - 11:39am PT
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Thanks for posting these Jim.
Timeless and awesome. Makes your heart beat faster...
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