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BKW
Mountain climber
Central Texas
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Jun 16, 2006 - 09:02am PT
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Trash man you left a line out, its,
pink is for the right hand holds
blue is for the left hand holds
white for foot holds
don't touch the brown smear.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 16, 2006 - 11:38am PT
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It really was sort of funny watching the people with the blinders on not reading and realizing - just doing some nice ass kissing. Of course some have that long noted track record going so it comes as no surprise.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 16, 2006 - 01:11pm PT
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hey JM, long time no see....
I might be around and we should have a beer or something with PTPP and the German kids. Always loved your stuff! Got any spoons left?
See ya there!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 16, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
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Russ, I just got a call from John and he said he's passing through Flagstaff on his way out. I recommended some sushi and he asked if you like the stuff. Knowing the answer I quickly flipped into biz mode. He's ordering a few platters and is planning on taking them to you to enjoy with your beer party. None should be allocated to the canadian assassin but the bavarian boys can have their fill! And save a Locker Roll for Britney and a Naturoll for Keira.
I hope you like the Werner Roll.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Jun 18, 2006 - 03:57pm PT
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WTF????
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 18, 2006 - 04:11pm PT
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^^^
Imposter wannabe.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
Austin, TX to South LakeTahoe, CA
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Jun 18, 2006 - 04:26pm PT
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Who gives a flying f#%k about whoever JM is and his imposter status?
Isn't this a thread about the Hubers in Yos this week?
Please advise.
Or STFU.
:)
-Aaron
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Jun 19, 2006 - 11:02pm PT
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now how 'bout that sushi...
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 19, 2006 - 11:04pm PT
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Uh... Tahoe Climber. Did you not read the original post? This is ALL about Britney Spears in Yosemite. Geez dude, keep it straight.
And yeah, how about that sushi. Werner, John just picked up the order and is on the way to deliver to your doorstep. YUM!
In the far back we have Tako (octopus), the inside-out roll is tempura tofu with tobiko topping it, left front is Ika (squid) sashimi, and front right we have one of piton ron's apparent favorite - Ikura (Salmon roe) battelship rolls (tastes like bait to me but whatebber).
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 19, 2006 - 11:14pm PT
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YUP! and she's having a rug-munching fest with Keira Knightley! Wish they invited me.
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 19, 2006 - 11:29pm PT
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Funny you should bring up Keira. So I'm trying to rock over on Midnight Lightning and I'm like, "Hey, Keira, watch me here, babe." And there's silence mid-mantle so I look down and she's not even paying attention because she's talking to John Frigging Middendorf. And John is giving her the George Costanza line about how he's an architect and all and Keira goes, "My but aren't you a strong one, Deuce. Do you mind if I call you Deuce?"
Me and Keira, man, it is so over between us. The Keira roll is dead, you hear me--DEAD.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 19, 2006 - 11:52pm PT
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How can the Keira roll be dead if I never made it? I was working on the Werner Roll when all of a sudden the cabinets in my kitchen started opening and shutting ALL BY THEMSELVES! Geez, maybe I put too much wasabi on Werners karmic spirit? Freaked me out so bad I forgot 'bout "her" (don't wanna mention the name and cause yo another hearbreak) roll.
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Kevster
Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
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Jun 20, 2006 - 12:46am PT
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Climbed the Nose this weekend, and can say that the traffic on Sickle did not slow down the Hubers at all, we all got out of the way when they came through. They did have some problems passing a party at the top of pitch 2 when Alex penji'ed and pinned another guy to the wall with his rope. As for the ticks, they are on EVERYTHING, even the king swing. Tried the KS where they had ticked it and got my A$$ handed to me, they were swinging above the toe of the boot. There was at least 1 new stopperhead on the Great Roof, but everything else looked older with new webbing/spectra added. I hope that they clean off the ticks on the upper pitches, I am sure the rain will take care of the rest. Personally I like having the fixed gear with new webbing, but wondering if it will last. Will the Nose get a "clean-up" like the Zodiac did once the speed record is broken? Guess we will have to wait and see....
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 20, 2006 - 03:08am PT
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Nice Job on the Nose. Is it true the King Swing no longer has a second penji point?
Huber Bros, guilty of tick marks, not guilty of fixing gear to make the route easier.
I've done the Nose when nobody was trying to free or speed it and found the whole great roof fixed and all kinds of penji ropes and such littering the route. Seems pretty reasonable at the moment.
Peace
Karl
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 20, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
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Please send your best wishes to Thomas!
I guess you guys hadn't heard, but on their attempt on the speed record late last week, Thomas took a very nasty 30-foot lead fall while short-fixing above Pancake Flake in what he called The Groove and sustained a possible project-stopping injury.
I only got a chance to phone him this morning. "I'm soooo lucky, Pete, it wasn't any worse!" He hit a ledge HARD pretty much straight on his ass, and although he suffered some spinal compression he was able to jug out on his own. He figures he might have a go at it after ten days' rest or so. Apparently there was no bad injury, but it must be a helluva bruise! [Good thing he landed where he did - sheesh!]
What happened?
"My foot slipped. It was a bad fall."
"I might try climbing a bit tomorrow, but I will have to see how my body and my head are doing. If I'm unable to continue for either reason, we'll have to come back in the fall."
This would be 0 fer 2 - last season you recall Alex injured his right ankle in a fall, and that stopped their attempt that time.
"The film project will continue in the fall. We now know we can do it [set new speed record] and the crew is very motivated. We work well together and are having lots of fun."
Best of luck, buddy! I bet you're reading these threads on your enforced rest days. When you're feeling more up to snuff, Thomas, then you and me and Alex and Sam Adams need to get together for another "training session"! So watch yer ass, eh? And don't sink the Eight-Ball too soon!
Cheers, mate
Pete
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Kevster
Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
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Jun 20, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
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No second penji point that I could find....man I wish someone had video'ed me trying the KS....could have gone in the Yos bloopers hall of flame. I probably tried it at the ticked spot 10 times, once missing a footer and slamming into the arete at mock 2. Pretty funny stuff.....
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nate
Trad climber
virginia
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Jun 20, 2006 - 05:49pm PT
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best wishes to thomas for a quick recovery. Those guys are for real. About the Dihedral wall - there was quite a harsh note about the bolting and chipping on the Bulletin Board c/o a Mr. Beyer not too long ago. Not the most reputable source perhaps but defenitely in agreement with pass the pee bottle Pete.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 20, 2006 - 07:10pm PT
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Yeah, best wishes to Thomas. Saw him late Sunday afternoon, soaking in the Merced...that cold clean water can heal anything so hopefully his tailbone is feeling better. I guess he hit pretty hard in that fall but is going tbe okay. He and Alex seemed in good spirits and it seemed like they're still stoked to make a go of this after Thomas gets as little down time this week to get back to 100%.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Jun 21, 2006 - 01:47pm PT
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Yep, I happened to be standing on the ledge with Alex right before the fall. It was a VERY scary moment and was surprised Thomas didn't break anything. It would have killed a normal man, haa haa.
So, Pete? I heard you bailed on WOS. I also heard you used my rope to top rope the pitch you couldn't do. Any truth to this?
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 21, 2006 - 02:14pm PT
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I emphatically hope this is not the case, eh? Did ya get snaileyed after announcing your intentions in this worldwide forum, Pete? Well [in Dirty Harry voice], "Did ya, punk?"
haha, just messin.
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